GTSBoy

What's an ARM? Have you checked fuel pressure?

You can't stall an engine at high speed.

By changing to a Halaltech and not having an AFM, typically. Or, they stall or otherwise carry on.

I'm not defending Haltech. They had some golden years, but their history of problem products goes back a loooong time before that and now. My bro-in-law swore off them 15 years ago. Same stuff. Firmware bugs, patchy tech support complete with total ignorance of what was going on. Doesn't mean that there are not 5 or 6 other excellent options - most of which were also born in Australia.

You wouldn't be buying bearings from Nissan. Surely? You have to replace them, so surely you'd be looking to buy the very best bearings available - which would suggest something aftermarket. The Suzuki example is not relevant - because a) motorbike, and b) Suzuki. The reason I bought Suzukis for my kids is that I have way more respect for the engineers of Jap car companies that also make motorbikes than I do for those that do not make bikes. The engineering required to make a decent bike is substantial, and it spills over into the car operations. Nissan do not make bikes.

Just be prepared to buy more than one set of bearings and use as required, putting the leftovers on the shelf. Normally this is the sort of thing that an engine builder would do that you don't see happen. They figure they'll use them one day down the track. You might never.

The actuator is not the cam gear. It is attached to the cam gear. But if you wanted to swap over the whole cam gear, then that would (should, depending on the health of the spare) work too.

But how thick are the existing shims? That's why you have to get them out. You have to measure each one, add the required changes in clearance, and then order new thickness.

No, the solenoid is not the actuator. The actuator is on the cam gear, to make it actually move when given oil pressure by the solenoid.

Per Duncan's post, Street version has no VCT, doesn't do AC, DOESN'T HAVE KNOCK SENSORS. OK, so you can use the higher end ECUs to claw those things back. But.... if I'm going aftermarket ECU, I'm not using a cable throttle. And...where is that? Um...

Sounds like VCT actuator.

Just go to a quality workshop that has a quality scan tool and ask to plug it in for a few minutes. Throw them a six pack.

Get a scan tool on the Consult port and see what the TCU has to say for itself.

Seeing as they don't have one at all, yes, must be added. I think that MaxxECU is one ECU that I would not consider using. There is no shortage of good choices, so why use something that appears to not be a good choice. I mean, shit - I'd use a Speeduino before I used the Maxx.

I dunno. Maybe. There's a crowd here in Oz called Precision Shims that I'd probably look to first. Although NIssan might be surprisingly cheap enough. Trouble with the process is you have to take all the existing shims out to measure them to know what you need to order.

I'm going to vote for considering going to the effort to close the lash down to the minimum. My bro-in-law got around to checking the clearances on the 3SGE in his Caldina. Was a bit fat all over. New shims at lowest allowable lash, and the car is remarkably better to drive. It appears that the increase in both total lift and duration that you get from doing this is worth a lot more than you might expect. I have been having evil (and expensive and time consuming) thoughts about doing it to mine, and I don't even think I have a problem. Not that I'd know, though.

Perhaps more the word "sheet metal" rather than aluminium. Because, you know, the stock one is cast ali.

Doesn't seem like it should cause them to be too noisy. Circa 0.4 is on the wider end of the range though. You can probably target more like 0.3 on the inlets.

You can't post images until you have like 10 posts or something.

I don't imagine so. It's less about "parts" than it is about process. You just have to screw on adapter ports, because R143a systems have different port valves to R12. Then you need to pump down the system, inert it and extract the old oil and replace with new R134a compatible oil and the refrigerant itself. All done by an AC mechanic (who are the only people licensed to handle refrigerants in Oz). Yes. Absolutely. 60km/day to/from work and whenever else needed. I don't care what anyone else thinks. They're just dirty old Datsuns that were built to be used**. Not f**ken' hero cars to be kept in a shed. **Says he who has one of the nicest, cleanest ones around.

Yeah. Particularly on cars where the maintenance, particularly the coolant maintenance, has not been up to scratch. Coolant turns acidic, eats the HX out, and at some point it becomes too thin to resist the pressure and you get horrible things happen. RBs are moderately famous for it. It's not like it's a problem that happens to all of them. But there've been enough events that people fear it.

Yeah, but I reckon the number (fraction?) of oil containers that actually get recycled would be pretty small. They are, after all, at least contaminated with clean oil, more likely contaminated with dirty oil. And if they go to an oil recycling depot of some sort to be emptied into the big tanks....I'd put coin on the probability that they just get pitched into the bin at that point. Even though we're talking about a "recycling facility".... have you seen the sort of oiks that work in places like that? Unlikely to be thinking about the prospect of recycling the bottles too.

It's not a gasket failure. AFIAK, there are no gaskets separating the two fluids. If it lets one into the other, it is broken metal.

No. That is totally illegal. Punters are not permitted to buy most refrigerants in Australia. Certainly not old not-very-nice ones like R134a. (I converted my car to R134a from R12 many years ago. I think the Neo compressor I have now is native R134a anyway, so I would have had to convert the gas when I did the engine swap anyway, if it was not already done, which it was). The evaporator is under the dash, and being a heat exchanger is made of thin section aluminium that is prone to eventually giving up the structural fight and cracking. There are also joints between it and the plumbing and the TX valve and so on. Every other connection and seal in the system is a potential leak point. There's rotary seals in the compressor, o-rings and similar seals at the hose connections to the compressor, the receiver dryer and condensor.

A goon bag? Can't see it being a bad thing. A little more environmentally friendly than the normal thick plastic bottle packaging. But, for home gamers....where do you put the dirty oil you drained out? That's what the empty bottle from last time is for.