GTSBoy

But that would be a genuine Nissan one, which would be the best choice and wouldn't need to be opened up for surgery anyway, for the next 20 years at least. Having said that.....if the OP's clutch can be opened, then yes....great. Consider the surgical option.

Yes, you have the opportunity to do it right. Do it right. Having said that....The compression will go up, which may not be a great thing considering how you've gotten to this point in the first place. But I wouldn't worry about valve-piston clearances. It's not like the turbo valves do anything different to the NA valves. Up-down at the same times, etc.

I have the GTR stock BOV on my Neo and it makes the most outrageous farting noise as it slowly closes. Stock air box, but steel turbo inlet and specially opened up trumpet feed into airbox.

Steel on steel bearing at the top will be noisy. (not intended for street/comfort/NVH).

Power doesn't have to come on a separate wire all the way from the battery. There is a large power distribution device in the form of the fusebox itself, and the main cable from the battery (to the fusebox, starter, etc) HAS to also be in the engine bay.... But yes, put a proper fuse into the fuse box if you can. IAT should be just before throttle. Yes.

take it to a workshop that has a Consult (or really, any good diagnostic handset) and plug it in and interrogate the ABS CU. All the CUs are on the Consult bus. Doesn't matter if the ECU is talking on the bus or not, the others will be. Of course, it might matter if the ECU has been changed, because removal of some of the seemingly unrelated parts of the car can cause things to go astray. Kill the traction control throttle and there can be unexpected ABS faults, for example.

....is only typical of aftermarket BOVs that vent to atmosphere. Not typical of compressor bypass valves (which is what you actually have).

Difficult to achieve. Also pointless and unnecessary. Most of us just drive gently for the first few miles (AND with standard break in practice of not just pussyfutting it around but making sure to give it a widely varying range of loads and revs), then lean on it hard. Many rebuilt engines are broken in on the dyno. They bed the rings in then start tuning and by the time all the power runs are finished it's had the hardest usage before the customer even gets in it.

Oh Boy! I'm starting to have a bad feeling about this. When you say "the turbos are off right now", do you mean off the engine, not installed? Because if so, there is no reason, no reason at all, to try to run the engine without the turbos. I have absolutely no idea how you would go about trying to do so. You need to somehow connect exhaust manifolds to an exhaust system that normally relies on turbos to make the connection, and you have to somehow get the induction system to connect from the front of the plenum to the air flow meters. This is all big fabrication work for a completely unnecessary and bullshit "requirement" to run the engine in without turbos. No-one else in the rest of the world would do this. If you mean simply that they are fitted but somehow "disabled", then that's not really possible either unless the wastegates are wired open. The only logical thing is that they might be set to low boost and the boost controller could be turned up later. Have you paid money? Can you get it back? You will NEVER make >500HP off stock turbos, let alone 700. It's a GTR, not a Dodge Demon. They were good for ~400HP. Maybe a bit more. Have a read around the threads in the forum. Here's one. It's the second post in the conveniently named sticky thread at the top of the FI forum about Rb26 power outputs from different turbos. Stock turbos making <450HP (at the engine) in 2005. At max (sensible) boost of 14 psi. https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93880-rb26-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/?do=findComment&comment=1700397

You can buy a USB one that plugs into a mobile phone and runs from an app for bugger all. eBay.

500HP sounds unreasonable. Dyno it and find out what the truth is. Then start thinking. We could tell you all sorts of fairy stories about how much power it could can and can't have on stock turbos. The M24 doesn't mean a lot - it's just the compressor cover casting number. The internals could be different to stock.

Sadly, I don't think there is a workable non-Nissan fan clutch option. I have had a number of different aftermarket ones (proper Davies Craig, various others) when I had to replace mine and they all sucked. They all made my car sound like a Patrol (noisy roar). Clearly not the actual right clutch for an RB. Set to lock up too cold. So I bought a couple of 2nd hand genuine ones. Fitted one, put the other in the shed for the future. If I had to do it again I would save the pain and buy the $500 genuine one. These cars may be getting cheaper, but these sorts of parts are evaporating and the prices are going up. They won't be cheap to keep on the road in a few years.

My advice is to buy a HICAS delete kit for the rear end and lose the rear rack ends forever. HICAS is pathetic. The "right front rack end" is too vague to know exactly what he means. The inner rack end? The tie rod end? There is no need to change tie rods. JustJap, Kudos Motorsports, Amayama, eBay, are all good places to get parts for these cars.

Frightening. Was it your mum, or your dad? Holding your hand. Not the root. OK?

Literally 10x easier to take said car to the exhaust shop and point to it and say "Put a muffler in the middle of the pipe and a muffler at the back, please." Cost is the 2x mufflers and some time and some welding. The front end of your existing exhaust is already proven to connect to the manifold flange, and the thing is already connected to the hangers. No doubt or worries required over whether it will fit, because it already does. And the new mufflers don't need to be hi-po or stainless or annointed with the tears of virgins. It's an NA RB20 single cam - so broadly equivalent to a 1999 Corolla in terms of flow needs. Buying a kakimoto cat back is the very definition of overkill and woftam.

The plug is clearly the VCT solenoid. The plug could be for that, given that it is also near the front end of the plenum, but really....how would we be sure?

You shut your whore mouth!

See this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VyHh2-UdCro Then follow the advice therein to look into the 490 series hose and fittings. If there is no fitting available from that source (Speedflow, I think) then there is probably nothing. In which case your options narrow down to trying to TIG an AN end onto the end of the Nissan fitting, or remaking that fitting in steel (I mean outright fabrication which is not actually that hard if you've got access to the right metalworking gear) and making the new fitting have a male BSP or NPT thread on it so you can simply screw an AN fitting on.

Speedo can work to look at. If it is not sending a speed signal to the ECU then it is likely not sending a speed signal to any other CU either. I told you what the speed signals look like. Put an oscilloscope on the back of the cluster and look for the bloody signal already.

You really should read what has already been posted, because this is a very easy thing to do (both to search up and to achieve the 300kW).

Good stuff.

You have wired it wrong. Get the wiring diagram (for just about any similar RB engined car). The R34 one will do. Look at the wiring for that circuit. It appears next to the ECU pinout. You will see that the ECU provides the earth for the fuel pump on 2 terminals. One with the resistor to drop the pump voltage, one without and controlled by the original relay. The 12V+ battery to run all this comes from outside all of this lot. If you wire it up wrong you can be putting the new 12V+ onto the back side of the resistor and giving some voltage to each of the ECU and the fuel pump - keeping it running. You have to make sure that your new wiring does things in the same order as the original wiring, and make whatever disconnections you need to. You just need the ECU to provide the constant earth (not through the resistor) to make the new relay pull in.

Rotors don't warp anywhere near as often as people make out they do. It is usually uneven thickness, which can be from odd wear, or more usually, uneven deposition of pad binder compound onto the rotor surface. Get a mobile guy to come and give them a really light skim (on car is fine) and see if it fixes it. He will be able to look at the runout before he starts and tell you if they look like they are actually warped or not.

Don't you love how many misfires these days are from blocked cats and holed pistons?

Pretty much all old tech injectors do. Don't f**k about with them. Modern injectors are available. I cannot fathom why anyone would want to dick about with Nismos these days.