GTSBoy

I'm not sure there's an advantage to retaining 20-30 yo wiring and plugs and trying to desolder them from the old module and build them onto your new board and be constrained by them needing to be in the same place to poke out through the same holes in the casing.....when some new decent connectors and a proper extruded alloy housing to screw the MOSFETs onto and freedom to lay the board out the way it needs to sound like things worth having.

Ask Volkswagen.

Would this not describe just about all the aftermarket variable speed fuel pump controllers out there?

Can you detail the extent of the porting and the cost? Also the intent of the build, power target, expected rev range, any of those things if you had them when you went into it?

^ This, and all the this. It's amazing how much coke'n'hookers people are willing to go without just to do something that that others have already done and pronounced to be the hard way to achieve the goal. It's like rooting the ugly best friend to get to the hot chick. Some would boast about getting 2x roots. Some would want to keep the first one quiet. Some would just go around the ugly chick. And this especially. I have done it all. Manual conversion on R32, followed years later by 25 conversions. Money spent probably far exceeds what it would have cost to dispose of the 32 early on and replace with a 34. By the same token.....if you average out what the car has cost me over the last 20 years, my wife's various SUVs have probably cost 3x as much. So I consider it to be a hung jury decision on value.

Adjustable arms will do NOTHING to improve ride comfort, compared to stockers. Almost all of them either have spherical joints or harder rubber/urethane bushes, so will usually make it stiffer and noisier. Sphericals being the worst for that, and not particularly legal, either. The reason** to put adjustable arms (on the rear) to be able to dial out excessive camber that may be there because the car is somewhat lower on dropped coilovers. You need upper arms and traction rods to be able to adjust that out. Note that this is not a trivial exercise. Search for words posted on these forums (by me and others) regarding bump steer. **OK, there are other reasons, including just wanting to be able to choose how much camber you run, instead of being trapped with whatever you've got +/- 0.2°. Adjustable lower arms at the rear are strictly unnecessary unless you are going all the way over the top race/drift spec. If you didn't have HICAS, your stock toe arms would already be adjustable - that's what they're for! At the front, I would run spherical jointed adjustable caster rods (despite the illegality) simply because of how much better they locate the lower arms. You have Mac struts in the front, yes? So there are no other arms that you need to change. Adjustable lower ones are only for drift spanking and you can get adjustable strut tops to give you enough camber & caster adjustment for most needs.

Take the thermostat out and replace it with a large washer or other restrictor and run it again. See if it behaves the same when you absolutely know there is coolant flowing.

I went even more baller and used the R34 Neo trans cooler as my PS cooler!

Just check that that cooler out the front is actually in the transmission cooling lines and is not actually the power steering cooler. I'm not too familiar with what they look like on R33s, but on R32s, the auto fluid only went through the bottom of the rad and the power steering cooler was just a loop of pipe out in front of the radiator. Not a proper finned heat exchanger like in your photo, but not a lot different in size. Is there a separate loop of pipe out there somewhere for your PS?

Oil cooler is a non-issue. FMIC should not be an issue in WA. Larger injectors are not technically legal anywhere in Australia, as they imply a "modification of an emissions control system". And essentially they imply that the ECU has been fiddled with/replaced, which is the same situation. If there's no obvious sign that the engine management has been altered, you could just try your luck. I would recommend that you just contact the WA roads dept and ask them what the process is for transferring interstate rego'd cars is, and then once they tell you that, mention that it is on club reg and ask if that means anything different, and then find out what the inspection requirements will be. You really need to know what the basis of the car being on club reg now is. Is it because it is problematically modified and the owner put it on club reg to sidestep the rego process? Or is it legitimately just an occasional use car on club reg to keep costs down? Club reg is not supposed to be abused to get around the rules, but it has been done plenty.

ECCS fuse is in the engine bay fusebox. ECCS relay is adjacent to the ECU.

CO2 test the coolant.

These 2 are incompatible. The only people who should consider buying R32 GTRs at this point in history are those who simply do not need to "save a bit of extra cash". You have to budget on spending the purchase price of the car every 2 - 3 years just to keep the bloody things running.

Won't need a tune. If the cooler is much larger than the old one, there may well be benefits from touching up the tune because high boost temperatures will be lower and you could conceivably use more timing, and the boost might also jump up a pound or two if you had a lot of pressure drop across the old core. But it will keep going just fine without a tune.

You'd probably be best of trying to contact Nismo and Invidia to get that, as no-one here in Australia will have had to go through it. Our rego authorities suck in different ways to yours.

2" rolling diameter is a huge change. You can't do it in the CU data, because the speed signal starts at the speed sensor as a +/-1 volt AC voltage and the speedo head converts it to the pulsed square wave 0-5v signal that everything else in the car uses. Thus you need to fix it in the signal coming from the sensor to the speedo. Yes, Jaycar is an electronics chain in Australia. Their speedo correction kit should work, but there should also be somewhat freely available equivalents out on the net (in terms of circuit design) and I would imagine that there would have to be Arduino type projectes out there too.

I do not think there is any such thing as an LED "replacement" globe that goes where a halogen came from and works worth a shit. The enclosures are not designed for LEDs and usually the cooling of the back end of the LED assembly is nowhere near what it needs to be for them to survive. Whilst the LED chips themselves are probably just getting to the point of being bright enough (in an H1/H3/H4/H7 sized array) they are nowhere near all collected into the same point that the halogen filament is to work properly in the reflector/projector optics of the halogen lamp body. They are probably legal. Even complete replacement lamp bodies (like replacing the R32 projector with an LED projector) is probably legal, and is in fact the only way that using LEDs in any original halogen car makes sense. Short version. Just because LED LED headlamps work properly does not mean that LED converted halogens will.

Um.......the lifter consists of two parts. The bucket and the shim. The shim sticks out of the top. They are not "assembled". They may be "stuck" together and need some encouragement, but that's all. What's most important is when you put it back together you find out what the clearances are and sort the shim thicknesses out.

No, it would be the boost spike causing power to rise very rapidly then the response of the controller actually pulls more boost out of it than it needed to and the output drops below where it was and takes a moment to get back - and in that moment the dyno pull has proceeded up the rpms a bit more and you get hole in the curve. It's all about the PID tuning.

Z32 with a Nistune chip will work and used to be the only option for Nistune, but more recent development means that an R32 ECU with Nistune is a better choice. Works perfectly and is pretty cheap. Standalone is somewhat easier. Any modern ECU will do - seriously. Whatever your favourite tuner is most comfortable with will be the best choice unless you have specific I/O needs.

It's been said many times before, the GKTech fan doesn't seem to work in RB applications. Is intended for SR20 dorifto.

Little black box (about 40-50mm across) bolted to the firewall near the brake booster. Should have boost hose and electrical connection coming into its underside. That's all there, all that could be "missing". Trace the boost hose, trace the wiring. Use a wiring diagram to understand how it gets from the firewall to the dash (it's not far, but it does go into the main loom first, obviously).

Keep in mind that the rust is not from the wheels, it's from the brakes. The product CLR Clear might be strong enough to clean it off.

The standard advice around here is to not do it. More pain and expense than it is worth. There is no such thing as a "kit". You can try to scrape together the minimum things you will need to make it happen, which is; Turbo + manifold, exhaust, intercooler, injectors fuel pump. Oh, and an ECU, because the pain inherent in trying to make a GTT ECU run on a hacked together mishmash of things with some missing/wrong sensors etc etc is not worth it. Aftermarket ECU simplifies life. But that ignores that you will destroy the clutch and so will need one of them. And the gearbox won't last too long either, so you really should put a big one in. And the open diff will have its own float in the Mardis Gras, and the front brakes will need upgrading.....and you're in Melbourne, so adding a turbo is like totally illegal without full engineering, so add that if you want your insurance to work.

Yup, dumbo typo. SR it is.