GTSBoy

Little black box (about 40-50mm across) bolted to the firewall near the brake booster. Should have boost hose and electrical connection coming into its underside. That's all there, all that could be "missing". Trace the boost hose, trace the wiring. Use a wiring diagram to understand how it gets from the firewall to the dash (it's not far, but it does go into the main loom first, obviously).

Keep in mind that the rust is not from the wheels, it's from the brakes. The product CLR Clear might be strong enough to clean it off.

The standard advice around here is to not do it. More pain and expense than it is worth. There is no such thing as a "kit". You can try to scrape together the minimum things you will need to make it happen, which is; Turbo + manifold, exhaust, intercooler, injectors fuel pump. Oh, and an ECU, because the pain inherent in trying to make a GTT ECU run on a hacked together mishmash of things with some missing/wrong sensors etc etc is not worth it. Aftermarket ECU simplifies life. But that ignores that you will destroy the clutch and so will need one of them. And the gearbox won't last too long either, so you really should put a big one in. And the open diff will have its own float in the Mardis Gras, and the front brakes will need upgrading.....and you're in Melbourne, so adding a turbo is like totally illegal without full engineering, so add that if you want your insurance to work.

Yup, dumbo typo. SR it is.

RDA slotted & dimpled better value than DBA. Intima RS is my preferred pad for street. Note that RS is their "street/track" pad. SS is their "street" pad. RS works very well as a street pad. Also, very good value. I have no specific knowledge of the DBA pad that you mention.

No, because I don't have any flowbench numbers for an RB head. The only head I've ever ported and done before & afters on was my Alfa twincam.

No, I was telling him that your numbers were approximately 10 times higher than they should be. Heads are flowed on a flow bench with a certain suction pressure applied. 10 inches of water, or 25, or 28. Head flow is not expressed in an engine running configuration. It is always on a flow bench at a certain depression. The depression used is important, because, of course, the measured flow will be a lot higher at 28" than at 10". "Increments" refers to increments of valve lift. It is important to flow a head at various valve lifts so that you can see what it does in the cam lift period where the head is close to the seat, and in mid lift, and at max lift. It's a bit like a dyno sheet where area under the curve can tell you things that the peak number alone can't.

Or maybe numbers that are about 1 power of 10 less than that?

They won't be re-making any R32 fuel senders any time......ever.

Well, you could take the headlight apart (needs patience, an oven, spare headlights in case you f**k it up) and try to do some careful desoldering and replacement of LEDs.... or, you could buy new headlights.

No, I mean try both and see what works better.

Try bumping up the time in the +10°C to 32 ms and see if that helps. If it does, set it back, and try 64 in the -10°C instead.

Hardly going to hurt resale.

To answer your question, there will likely only be the one. If you made the mistake of buying a Japanese street legal system (JASMA approved) then it pretty much will have to have a 2.5" restrictor in it. Just one more reason why most of us on here who give advice on such things tell people to choose 2x good mufflers and get their local good exhaust shop to build an exhaust.

And as long as you're open with it and there is some way to note it in CARJAM, there really shouldn't be any problem. Your physical solution is to go buy a cheap Chinesium cordless drill, connect it to the speedo drive (pulled out of the gearbox) and sit the car in the garage with the trigger cable tied until it has done 24000km. That would suck, but it would work. Your electronic solution is to make an Arduino to output a sine/triangle wave of about +/-1V and pulse it at whatever frequency is broadly equivalent to 300 km/h and let it run until the odo winds on 24000km. That's about 80 hours, or a long weekend.

Which pulleys? Cam or accessory belts?

Excessive torque is what chips teeth off of meshed gears. That can be a direct effect from simply giving it way more than it can handle, or it can be a cumulative thing where the shaft bearings cop a flogging over time and then allow the shafts to move apart and load the gear teeth incorrectly. It can also happen where the case can't take the torque loads, deforms and allows shit to move to new and unexpected positions wrt each other. Hamfisted shifting is what strips teeth off of synchros.

Kudos, Amayama, RHDJapan, Just Jap in Kirawee, are just a few possibles. Nissan in Japan via Jesse Streeter or Import Monster, if necessary.

Sadly, it would probably be behind/under the dash. You need to look at the wiring diagrams to see where there are earth points "close" to the instrument cluster and other devices in that area. Then you can pursue the wiring from those things back towards the various earth points on the steelwork behind/under the dash area. Keep in mind that sometimes the earths are not actually where you might expect, and might, for example, be out near the sensing devices (like maybe the fuel sender). It is more likely that you will have dud earths out in the open/wet areas of the car or where f**kfisted previous owners could have done something stupid than behind the dash. But you can't exclude the possibility that someone has damaged something behind the dash either.

Give all the likely fuses a wiggle. Pull 'em out put 'em back in. I have one circuit on my car (that powers the radio etc) that needs this every couple of years. But I would warrant that it's more likely an earth problem.

I see the HICAS rack putting enough energy into the rear end to shake the front wheels like that as being about as possible as moving the G&L Mardi Gras to Mt Isa.

Possibilities can happen. But impossibilities can't.

Yup, ammeter. Has to go in the main charging output from the alternator, which is kind of why they died a death after the 80s. Used to be one hanging under the dash of every hoon's HK Holden in the 70s.

HICAS has no ability to make the front rack move. It won't be that. My money is on the pump and/or rack being in a bad state from running dry.

eyeblink.gif at the concept of doing such a swap without having the wiring diagrams in hand first.