GTSBoy

But seriously, one makes it move left-right, the other makes it move up-down. Twist one and find out. 30s self teaching moment.

If it is overboosting with the wastegate fed direct from the boost source, then the wastegate is clearly not doing its job. Stuck, jammed, frozen, etc.

Seriously, unless it has to stay NA, DO NOT DO ANY WORK ON THE ENGINE. . . . NOTHING. If you want it to be fast, put a turbo on it. Case closed. If you want to be different and fast, put a supercharger on it. An engine conversion to a LS1 would make more sense than doing anything at all to an NA RB30.

Cheap small compressors are the devils' work. The only way they make sense is if you buy 3 or 4 of them and gang them all together.

You will never need to change the inlet manifold for an NA application. You wouldn't even need to change it for 400rwkW of turbo application. The stocker might look poxy, but it works properly. Changing to front facing won't demand a tuneable ECU. You could do so on the stock ECU. Just use the stock TPS on the stock (or possibly even larger) TB and it will all still work. The plenum does not control the power the car makes anywhere near as much as you might imagine. If you want it just for looks, that's fine, but don't make the mistake of thinking that it will be a performance upgrade. My single biggest suggestion is to spend your money where it will actually make a difference, not on things that are effectively just wank.

Note that I said "less than 140 kW". The S2 GTS motor made that much, the S1 made 130, the normal R31 make ~120 and the VL motor made 114 kW. At the engine. Starting from your likely, factory fresh 120 kW, adding 25 years of use, it might make a bit more than 100 kW now. Without freshening up the bottom end, most of that difference is unlikely to come back, even with a standard head rebuild. So, benefit of the doubt call the baseline 110kW if you have a fresh head on the old bottom end. Now, if instead of the head being just reconditioned, you gave it a mild port job, just cleaning up the bowls, taking care of the guides, port matching to the inlet manifold and polishing up the exhaust side a bit, plus a decent set of extractors, you might give it an extra 25 kW. I would hesitate to suggest that you will get more. To make the most of any such work you would be well advised to put a Nistune board into the ECU and some fresh injectors and AFM so that you can tune it more aggressively. You'd probably make more power just with a tune than with a street port job on its own! I must reiterate, porting does not equal diving into the ports with a jackhammer and making them as large as possible. You only get the head ported to the extent that it will not hurt performance in the intended operation model. For a streeter, just giving it a tickle is usually as much as you can do. A full race port job with many hours spent digging every last scrap of flow out of it will result in a head with low port velocity when you're driving around at road revs unless you keep it boiling away in the upper half of the rev range all the time, and that gets old VERY QUICKLY. You need to find a head specialist near you that has experience with RB30s, who will know how much time and effort (and therefore $$) to put into a head. Spoiler alert. Porting takes many hours and costs many dollars. Turbos will return much more power per dollar spent.

350 engine HP from a naturally aspirated 3L? That's a VERY highly strung engine. Big compression, big cam, lots of revs. Lots of revs. They make less than 140 engine kW, call it 180 engine HP, standard. You're talking about doubling that.

I can hardly imagine that that would make sense. Of all the options for interesting cars that you can get at cheap(er) prices in the UK, why would you choose to ship a V6 Skyline over? Sounds like the dictionary definition of a -ve equity proposition.

I would suggest that your fuel pump is not doing its job after running dry, for whatever reason. Take the fuel line off the inlet end of the fuel rail and turn on the ignition. You should get a LOT of fuel moving.

There's no such thing as "necessary". Porting + valve sizing + compression choice + cam choice should all be application driven things. How much power do you want? At what RPM are you happy to operate? Fuel choice? Usage model for the car? Unless you go at it from that point of view, you stand a chance of going backwards compared to where you would like to be, and just generally wasting time and money. I have no objection to a very mild clean up of ports and tidying the bowls and getting the valve seats set up nice. But taking metal out of the ports "just 'coz" is not a good idea.

You won't improve economy much by doing headwork. Decent valve angle job will help a little. You will make a little more power from porting alone, but porting is an expensive way to make power on its own.

The seats from 4 door cars seldom offer what's needed (tilt/slide) for access to coupes. I've looked at those - they don't. There is actually precious little that is ADR compliant in every respect and fits the bill.

Armrest part of the rear trim should not need to be removed for this. C pillar trim should not need to be removed to get parcel shelf out. Certainly doesn't in R32. Lie on your back in the boot and look up at the parcel shelf. You should see any trim plugs or other fasteners that might be making it stay put.

All same same.

Less torque than a 500HP RB25, so should be fine. I have no idea why you would go to the effort of adapting the RB25 box to the Windsor though, when there are already boxes that suit that are as strong or stronger (and have 6 speeds)

Both. Deck is surprisingly and disturbingly thin on some of them.

Hmmmm. Have you watched any of the Motive DVD Platinum Tech videos about RB blocks? Such as, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KF1iTh-2u3E I would be MOST hesitant to slash 1.3mm off the top of an RB block, unless I had had it tested and everyone involved was confident that there was going to be enough meat left. The alternative is custom pistons.

Nah. Sky is just completely blown out. Wouldn't have looked that bright IRL. HDR would have given the same pic of the car and the sky would have retained more detail.

You can LYAO as much as you like, the chances that that was done in Japan are pretty low.

I for one, would never have considered putting a Z32 into the cooler piping. I wouldn't hesitate to do it to do it with a blade style AFM. You can delete the AFM with any half decent aftermarket ECU and a MAP sensor.

Stock plenum will be fine. Unless you're trying to win sheepstations on the dragstrip, spend your money elsewhere.

I thought the same thing!

What makes you say that it's not designed to work in the cooler pipe? They work perfectly well there. They are massively robust (physically) compared to the old style ones (like Z32 etc).

Um....how does that get through SEVS rules? It's not actually a 370GT, it's an Infnity G37. So, it would have to have been done here.

It can work in a 4" inlet, but you do lose resolution (you gain massive range on the flipside). But it can be troublesome to tune. It is best put in the cooler pipe, after the cooler. Hot side is no good. Too hot.