GTSBoy

Replace with R35 blade style AFM and build a cal curve for it in the PFC. It's doable, it's been done before.

No, he means a "line-in" socket. Google up hacks for car stereos where people break in and hijack the tape input to the pre-amp. That's how it's done*. *But seriously, an FM modulator would be less trouble.

Nah, it's going to belong (or not belong, because....shudder, it's so ugly) on a car with a conventional bootline. R32, S13, EB Falcon, etc.

Aaaaaaaaaaaanddd!....... https://www.linkecu.com/software-support/ecu-fault-codes/

I've bolded the bits where I think the problem is. Why would an aftermarket ECU have the same fault codes as the Nissan ECU? Surely they have all their own fault codes?

Not sure I follow your concern. Speaking with my aerodynamicist hat on, all flows in all automotive systems of any concern to us are turbulent - as in, they meet the criteria of having a high Reynolds number. Certainly high enough that there should never be any talk about laminar flow. If what you are talking about is "well developed flow", then the sad fact is that there are no duct lengths in pretty much any automotive application that are long enough to provide that either. The beauty of all this bad news is that it really doesn't matter, especially with the newer blade type AFMs. But even without the new ones, something like the classic Nissan hot wire AFM is just a hot wire anemometer. It is measuring the velocity of the air at just one point in the pipe, and via a "calibration" outputting a number that represents the total air flow through the pipe (the pipe being the AFM body). It really does not matter if the velocity profile across the pipe is even or not. It does not matter if it is high on one side and low on the other, or if it has swirl in it. That's because the relationship between the measuring location in the centre and the average flow remains pretty much the same regardless of the amount of air being drawn through, because the flow remains pretty firmly stuck in the turbulent regime (Re >>2000) for all likely flows. Thus the gross flow patterns remain the same. Now, it is true that OEMs have usually gone to some effort to straighten out or balance the flow across the pipe. The Nissan mesh will put up a little pressure drop and thus will spread a biased flow profile back across the pipe a little bit, but not much, because it's actually bugger all flow restriction. You need to put up quite a resistance to cause a really biased flow spread out much. Other manufacturers have has structures to knock out swirl or otherwise straighten up flow that wasn't approaching the AFM in an axial direction. All of these attempts are only doing so much. In reality, all the hand wringing that people have learnt over AFMs comes down to the fact that the relationship between average velocity and the velocity measured by the hot wire is part of the calibration, that the ECU expects to see, and the ECU then has another calibration over the top of that that says that X voltage = Y flow rate and then on top of that you have the numbers in the fuel table that can be moved up and down too. So they are well covered for being able to handle whatever differences in "calibration" the AFM might exhibit as the flow increases from idle up to max power. People wring their hands because they hear about Joe Bloggs who put a pod filter on his Nissan and it ran hella rich (or more likely, lean, blew his engine and that's why people learn to be upset by it). But that's only because the assumed calibration of the AFM was buggered by the change to the inlet conditions and the ECU was looking at a different number than it used to for the same air flow rate. All this is not a problem when you can retune the ECU. You just change the AFM calibration curve, or the values in the fuel table. Turbulence is not a problem. Not one to be confused with the effects of reversion or the effects of changing the inlet pipe geometry without having the ability to compensate for it at the ECU.

I'm not sure that any of this is relevant in any way. Shirley it's a no brainer to do the single AFM thing on Nistune, and no-one is seriously using PFC on big single GTRs anyway, right? It's like saying I won't put a big single on a GTR because the stock 225 wide tyres can't handle it.

Well, it's supposed to be snug. The reason it won't go onto the input shaft is probably that it's cocked in the crank a little, from not being snug. Would have to guess that the end of your crank is worn out. which is no good thing, because, it may or may not be concentric. If concentric, you might get away with adding some thickness to the OD of the bush (wrapping it in shim perhaps, or building it up with hot melt metal glue and turning it back down. But if it is not concentric then that will only destroy the front bearing on the gearbox (and possibly the rear bearing on the crank). Don't know what to suggest you do about it.

The RB26 ECUs want to see 2x AFMs, 2xEGO. You have 1 of each. The things you have to do to make it work are not a lot of fun. Funnily enough, you're not the first person to want to do this. You could google and find out what others have had to do.

Consult exists for a reason.

Yup, stock ECU + nistune will be a much easier process than bodging a 26 PFC to work on a 20.

I'm damn sure that if someone just put a 7670 or 7163 onto an RB26 they would have exactly the ~300rwkW screamer that you all pray for. Ceramic coating and judicious use of heat shielding is a triviality that I won't even bother to go into.

And the answer is never twins.

You talking about the half moon? I would always put some hylomar or red juice or something similar, especially up at the corners. Just realised the half moon is the wrong end. Statement remains the same though.

No, you cannot fill from the shifter unless you know pretty much exactly how much oil to put in it. It has to be full to the bottom of the fill hole. The best way to do that.....is from the fill hole. Yes, you can get oil into the box through the shifter. But, see above.

There is no dipstick on a manual gearbox.

You have asked too many questions there. I would have to type about 2000 words to even get close. Some answers. Yes, they are all R200s. Well, all except for the very puniest versions, which you will never see. NA R32/3 have 3x2 stubs and open diffs. Turbo R32/3 have 5x1 stubs and viscous LSDs, which suck donkey jizz and may as well be open. Stubs from open diffs will not fit VLSDs because the VLSDs have funky unequal length stub axles, which is even more annoying than the fact that they are pathetic open wheeling shitball diffs. GTRs have things that are not compatible with your stuff, so forget about anything with 6x1 for now. S chassis cars have 3x2 stubs regardless of whether they are open or VLSD. The housings are otherwise the same as the equivalent r chassis car (so S13 like R32, S14 like R33). So unequal length 3x2 stubs out of S13 VLSD will fit R chassis VLSD. You will need to open the diff you have to find out what is inside. Could be anything. Could be original, or could have been f**ked with by someone. 5 bolt CVs are marginally stronger than 3x2 bolt CVs. In reality, 3x2 bolters are not even really CV joints, they are tripod joints and so not as good from the point of view of Constant Velocity. But they are not massively weaker than the real ones. I've had S14 driveshafts in my R32 with ~190rwkW for many years. They are fine.

It don't get much simpler than that there.

90% chance you cooked it and blew headgasket which has pushed various fluids various places where they shouldn't have gone. It's getting harder to find good 2nd hand engines these days, thanks to all the wankers who've treated them as if they were disposable all these years. A rebuild is starting to look more like the path people will have to take in the future.

Not sure why you want to specify inconel. If I were spending money on a GTR's turbos, I'd be going EFR, 100%.

The options for where the oil is coming from are innumerable. Diagnosing this without taking it apart, across the internet, is not going to be possible. Could be leaking from the oil pump gasket. You might have damage on the front of the block where the idler bolt is - which wouldn't normally be a suspect except for how your engine died last time. Needs at least partial dismantlery to find it.

You can also buy a box that goes in the antenna line (ie, the car's antenna plugs into it and then you plug the box into the head unit's antenna input) and it subtracts X MHz from the signal and effectively scales back all the local stations so they tune in on the Jap frequency range. It's what we all did in the 90s.

Not rebuilding the bottom end on a REALLY OLD engine is not always the right move when you're talking about headwork and big cams. There's no point in talking about porting and big cams unless planning on lots of boost and big revs. Massive boost + cast pistons not always good bedfellows. 270° cams on an RB20 = lag for days, boost from 4500 up to 9000+. I'd be thinking about new rods and/or rod prep, ARP rod bolts, forged pistons. At the least. Probably worth considering the oil pump situation too. Otherwise, it is fairly common to see RB20s run about 260-270rwkW without much preparation and run for a few years before popping.

It's far from ideal where it is. They really need to be placed right over the top of the turbo flange area.