GTSBoy

I can't tell you about R33 stuff specifically. I can tell you that I only know for sure that the small plug works on R32s. Given that the HICAS systems on these cars are not the same, you should not assume it also works on R33s. And yes, on an R32 it's effectively a disabler for HICAS because the HICAS rack is self locking when it is in fault.

Of course....the driveshaftshop.com replacements (at approx. 1 million Pacific Pesos!!!) use not flanged inner CVs and an adapter ring onto the 5 or 6 bolt diff axle flanges. This would obviously be an option to anyone getting something customed up. If there were much stronger CVs that you wanted to use that didn't mate up - just adapt them. Easiest done with new custom shafts too, so the total length can be set right.

Um....why not set it to something, and see if it runs too hot or too cold and then adjust as per normal engineering practice?

https://xforce.com.au/product/vmk51-250/

Nope. As in, I don't know of any. I'd be reasonably confident that you could talk to any diff/rear end specialist that does hi-po stuff and they could probably source/make new axles that would be made from stronger materials or perhaps have some pixie dust waved over them. I don't know if there's anything other than the Nissan CVs available.

Fuel pump dead/dying or power supply to it dodgy, per trident's suggestion.

There were a lot of NA Skylines, Cefiros, etc made with RB25DEs in them. There are many of these boxes still available in Japan. If you need one, don't be trying to look in the USA, where there will be almost none. Try looking at the source. Consider using Jesse Streeter or one of the other buying & shipping agents who live over there to get you one.

Fair enough. But it doesn't change the fact that you have broader options for original source of your gearbox.

Doesn't have to drip on the floor. It's clearly a slow leak - it's only a film on the pan. It probably only weeps out when it's running and has some pressure somewhere.

I think the general assumption is that the hamfisted will be more hamfisted with a short shifter.

RB25DE gearbox is exactly the same gearbox as the RB20DET. The small frame gearbox. RB25DET gearbox is much larger. It's the big frame gearbox that was used in Z32s, Nissan pickups (and the GTR, essentially). That box would definitely require tailshaft modifications, although that is no problem. Every single person who has put an RB25 gearbox into an R32 here in Australia has carted the necessary parts off to the tailshaft workshop (usually Hardy Spicer) and had them cut and shut them together. Hardy Spicers have done it so many times that you don't even need to take measurements! They know the lengths off by heart. It's not hard. I am very surprised that you think you can use the 260Z tailshaft against an RB20 gearbox anyway. I would have thought that the back end of the L260's gearbox would have been different to the RB20's.

That seems a little like overkill. I just noticed in the 1st photo that it appears to be wet from up on the side of the box, not just the pan. Look for leaks from up high.

I'm not sure I follow. The RB20DET manual gearbox is physically exactly the same as the RB25DE. You unbolt one, bolt in the other.

Also RB25 NA box is the same thing. Slightly different ratios, but actually a better choice.

Rear main seal? As in engine rear main.

You want -0.75° to -1° at the rear. More than that will lead to rapid wear on a street car. At the front, up to 2°, but better at 1.5°. I have been running slightly more camber in the last year than previous, and I can see the wear difference on the inner edges - very clearly.

Gear position / neutral has nothing to do with it. You have just experienced something weird. As my crystal ball is currently out getting resurfaced, I am unable to discern what caused it. Please call another psychic.

This would be a flat battery.

What do you mean "keep my box and diff"? Keep the box and diff from the R32, or from the R33? The R32 gearbox will not enjoy RB25 torque. The diffs are basically the same. I would strongly suggest you do some searching, because this is by far not the first time anyone has asked what it takes to drop a 25 into a 32.

No. The steel on steel spherical joints make life uncomfortable. They also tend to wear and are not really the best option for a street car. The hard rubber bushes are not any rougher than polyurethane, which used to be my standard choice, but poly has its own issues. You will note that I am being hypocritical here. The GKTech FUCAs have 3(!) spherical joints on each (in fact, they actually have 5 because there's another pair inside the big end). I have had trouble with these wearing on my car, but as it turns out, not as much trouble as I thought. That's a whole other issue. Anyway, the point is that I am prepared to put up with some sphericals on my (street) car, but not prepared to put them everywhere and turn the NVH up to 11 everywhere.

Buy FUCAs for R32 from GKTech (they are very good, but fiddly). Other option is the ones from UAS which recently had a group buy - I think someone is selling an older set (unused) on these very forums. I have both. Currently have the UAS ones on the car. I would not use anything else. All other available adjustable FUCAs for R32s are riddled with ball cancer and AIDS. Buy GKTech upper CAs and traction arms for the rear. Or Hardrace. Best to get the rubber bushed Hardrace ones. GKTech only have spherical jointed options which are quite harsh and a lot less legal. Note that setting up and correctly adjusting rear uppers and traction rods is not as trivial as it looks. Search "bump steer".

Splitfires are not expensive now. They are the same price as they have ever been, possibly cheaper in real terms. They are still the cheapest & easiest way to do a coil upgrade. They are, however, not really any different in terms of performance & quality than the original Nissan ones, which have been popping up here and there over the last few years. The problem with buying "OEM" ones is that they are probably easier to counterfeit. The smart approach these days is to replace with a modern pencil coil. Your choices are to buy a kit that uses Toyota/Denso coils (such as Yaris, or any of the 1ZZ tyes) and necessary wiring adaptation & mounting bracket, or to buy Nissan type (R35 GTR, VQ370 types) and the necessary stalk adapters and mounting plate. The Toyota options are cheaper as kits. The easiest/best Nissan options will cost you over $1k, but are the absolutely f**king duck's nuts in terms of performance capability, for a coil that can fit in the factory spot.

Nah. Has to be injectors mounted off the end of the trumpets firing down their throats, for maximum backfire flamage.

There's a very big difference between "lubricant" in upper cylinder lubricant and "lubricant" in terms of what might keep pumps and injectors happy. The former is lead or calcium or some other mineral based thing to cushion the valves on the seats, and the latter is going to need to be some type of oily lube.

Red's dead baby. Red's dead.