GTSBoy

Splitfires are not expensive now. They are the same price as they have ever been, possibly cheaper in real terms. They are still the cheapest & easiest way to do a coil upgrade. They are, however, not really any different in terms of performance & quality than the original Nissan ones, which have been popping up here and there over the last few years. The problem with buying "OEM" ones is that they are probably easier to counterfeit. The smart approach these days is to replace with a modern pencil coil. Your choices are to buy a kit that uses Toyota/Denso coils (such as Yaris, or any of the 1ZZ tyes) and necessary wiring adaptation & mounting bracket, or to buy Nissan type (R35 GTR, VQ370 types) and the necessary stalk adapters and mounting plate. The Toyota options are cheaper as kits. The easiest/best Nissan options will cost you over $1k, but are the absolutely f**king duck's nuts in terms of performance capability, for a coil that can fit in the factory spot.

Nah. Has to be injectors mounted off the end of the trumpets firing down their throats, for maximum backfire flamage.

There's a very big difference between "lubricant" in upper cylinder lubricant and "lubricant" in terms of what might keep pumps and injectors happy. The former is lead or calcium or some other mineral based thing to cushion the valves on the seats, and the latter is going to need to be some type of oily lube.

Red's dead baby. Red's dead.

I'm pretty sure I saw rear bumper skins on eBay recently. Perhaps from Tacoma Nissan in Washington State.

Teins have traditionally had very hard springs and dampers that may or may not have been appropriately matched. They have reputedly gotten a lot better in the last 10 years, but I'm still leery of them. Hell, even just 7(?) years ago I decided to go with modified Bilsteins and separate springs rather than coilovers. But these days, I would just spend the money. ~$2.5k buys you a hell of a lot of very well built coilover these days.

No, not quite. The 20 has a shorter stroke so the piston speeds are noticeably lower. You still need to take care of the other things that can get in the way of revs (lifters/shims, springs, etc) but there are plenty of RB20s that have been turned to nearly 10k. Very few 25s ever get turned that fast. Well......it depends on what you mean by "all of the stock sensors". Of course it's injected, so it has full management (although why she put a bloody F-CON on there along with a Link ECU, I'll never know!). Having ITBs on an aftermarket ECU is easier than trying to do it on the Nissan ECU. You have freedom to do whatever is necessary to get a TPS onto it, whereas with the Nissan ECU you'd be trying to use either the original TPS or something else OEM Nissan that looked the same to the ECU. Everything else needs to be what the ECU requires. The F-CON / Link must be running from MAP because there's nowhere for an AFM to be installed on that engine. You still need water temp sensor, but with non-Nissan ECUs it could be any water temp sensor. The CAS must stay, unless replaced with expensive crank triggers. That's about it to make it run properly. Easier often comes with cheaper. It's not really true in either case with this decision though. Going carbs will cost more in time, effort and money than keeping the injection. If you put carbs on it you're going to have to come up with an inlet manifold and solve all the other issued I've raised. If you keep injection, the inlet manifold comes for free, the management problems go away. You only need to add the fuel system (which should take an afternoon and a few hundred bucks on top of the pump cost). The only way you could make the injected option as hard for yourself as the carbs option is if you wanted to have ITBs. Then your manifold problem comes back and some of your ECU problems start to come back. This would almost certainly be the most expensive option (sound the best though, see that video, above!).

Yuh, that's the killer. With coilover options like KW and MCA these days, it's very hard to argue for decent separate damper and spring upgrades.

Surely it's just the Japanese version of BSP, which is exactly the same as BSP, and hardly uncommon?

Not if you want it registered perhaps. The engineering would not be fun. Plus the Barra is physically not a good fit in R32s. Very large in the wrong dimensional directions. Consider an NA V8?

If you have 2 carbs, then I would argue that they are not decent. There's probably no justification in having carbs on an L6 unless they are triple Webers. A pair of twin SUs is not really a "performance" situation. Multiple carbs make for a grumpy annoying existence. Injection takes away so many of those annoying cold weather cold start throttle pumping experiments, etc etc. The driveability benefits alone are worth it. I would also argue that the time, effort and money spent on getting the ignition working without full engine management is not going to equate to "cheaper and easier" than just running the RB the way Nissan intended. Don't get me wrong - I love the sound of open carbs - I spent years driving around an ALFA with trumpets and sock filters. But I wanted to inject it to get away from all the carb hassle. That's ultimately why I bought the Skyline.

Budget is not a consideration. Anyone who owns an R32 GTR has already committed to spending the purchase price again every 2 years.

No non nonononononono. Why use stock type stuff? If you wish to retain stock type, at least upgrade to Bilstein B6. Otherwise, there are a large number of excellent coilover options in the US, and here.

Mark up the drawing with the connection points across which you measured short circuit.

The "module" in the back is a noise suppressor unit. So, it's just going to be a capacitor (at best guess). The fault is probably in there, if it is a big ol' electro cap, it's probably popped its load all over the insides of the box. Here's the wiring diagram. It's not rocket surgery to work out where the pixies come from and where they flow to. Put 12V direct onto the hot side of the demister bars and see if they get warm. Looks like the switch's lamp is back fed off the output that comes out of the switch and goes to the back of the car.

Yuh, no fun trying to do all that with the plenum on. Even from below it is a complete bear.

The effort spent on forcing it to work with carbs would certainly be better spent just putting an EFI pump and some fuel line into the car. Seriously. If you really would prefer to go carb, and you are happy to have a single air feed to however many carbs (be that 1, 2 or 3) then all you need to do is put the AFM into the air inlet and just run the ECU. The ECU will run the sparks and will try to run the injectors, but as there will be no injectors and fuel will automagically find its way into the engine via the vintage tech, you will no doubt get combustion and power. There will be hassles. The ECU will be expecting a TPS signal it can work with for idle, and it will be wanting to do idle speed control via IACV and also messing with the timing - and guessing that you won't have an IACV, it will definitely end up screwing with the timing. As I said, going EFI would be easier. If you can go further afield than using a (Nistuned) original ECU then you could use an aftermarket ECU that can run off MAP and you won't need the AFM and you might find it easier to side-step some of the idle hassles, etc.

Yes it will. Especially seeing as it's only G2. The bigger ones really want bigger inlet pipes, but the little one will survive with 3".

Yeah, we should ban him! /pitchfork!

Should be same enough as this tuff, no? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Skyline-R32-Gtst-Power-Steering-Hoses/113696173795?hash=item1a78d1eee3:g:zo4AAOSwq4xclw00

Actually, less resolution. More range, yes, but less resolution.

No, that's bad. The Z32 sized pipe that is. See the bit where the AFM blade mounts? You can buy just that bit (like the one from NZEFI). Weld it onto some 4" pipe. Then you have a 4" inlet to your turbo, not the pissy little 3" inlet (which is what a Z32 is). You will surprised how much better that is. If you have the standard airbox, you will just have to make a bigger hole and work out how to securely connect the 4" pipe to it. Keep in mind that if you are buying using US $, then your money is worth a lot more than the Pacific Pesos (which also use the $ sign) on the NZEFI site.

Don't put a Z32 into it. Buy an R35 (or other similar blade style sensor) and an adapter and fit it into a 4" inlet pipe to suit your Hypergear. Look at the Nistune site & forums for some guidance. Get some 1000cc Bosch EV14 based injectors & max out the turbo (or max out your fuel pump perhaps).

Good stuff. Pretty much a waste of time trying without upgrading the AFM and injectors. You can make that much power on stock turbo. Spend more money, soon.

First up, the R chassis cars have upper and lower control arms. The S chassis cars are MacPherson strut, so don't have an upper arm. That's a pretty big difference. The R chassis cars therefore also have a completely different hub/upright part. R32 & R33 are not the same. The R32 upper arm was a brave try by Nissan, but ultimately a bad design. The R33 improved on that by making the chassis end of the arm a true wishbone. Not possible to switch these between cars without major chassis surgery. There is some scope to move crossmembers and lower arms between the R and S chassis cars, but only because of drift driven desperation. This has all been very thoroughly documented on the net for many many years now, so search if you want to know what can be done. S14 & S15 are mostly the same stuff. Most significant would be the FUCAs.