GTSBoy

Well, yeah. But not with that nasty plastic cap. Well, actually it's a very nice plastic cap - given its job is only to keep the transport oil fill inside. But I wouldn't trust it to remain strong for years.

Just do an experiment. Run the tank down to nearly empty. Put 20L of something else in it, with no ethanol. Swish it round with the pump (ie running at idle and/or low load). Then fill it up with the decent stuff and drive sensibly for a half tank then fill it properly. Or suck the crap out and put it in the wife's car. Whatever.

It's where the speed sensor goes.

Hell, even an old Microtech LT in piggyback just to run the fuelling would be a substantial improvement. You really only need to fix that one thing (which is bore washingly worrying).

Oof. You're not wrong about "rich". I'm surprised not to have seen black smoke on the dyno. Less than 10 is fat enough, let alone diving below 8 at the top end!

Hey! That's not cardboard.

Welllll..... some of the Preludes, particularly this one Sort of kinda mimicked the long-nose-short-deck-Mustang/Skyline profile anyway. That one ^ kinda like R34. The other more curvy Prelude kinda like the R33. Integras had a little of that going on also. So, it's not totally surprising to me that their designers have gravitated to a similar profile to more "modern" (ha! 20 year old!!) Nissan coupes. Of course, they could have just stolen the V/Z platform anyway, per your suggestion. I am, otherwise, similarly unimpressed. Those venty things at the bottom of the front guard/door reek of Tiburon, which is not a place any designer would want to be.

Yeah, it was a pretty deep dig.

So, if the headlights' cutoff behaviour (angles, heights, etc) are not as per 6.2.6.1.1 without automatic levelling, then you have to have to have automatic** levelling. Also, if the headlight does not have the required markings, then neither automatic nor manual adjusters are going to be acceptable. That's because the base headlight itself does not meet the minimum requirement (which is the marking). ** with the option of manual levelling, if the headlight otherwise meets the same requirements as for the automatic case AND can be set to the "base" alignment at the headlight itself. So that's an additional requirement for the manual case. So, provided that the marking is on the headlight and there is a local manual adjustment back to "base" on the headlight, then yes, you could argue that they are code compliant. But if you are missing any single one of these things, then they are not. And unlike certain other standards that I work with, there does not seem to be scope to prepare a "fitness for purpose" report. Well, I guess there actually is. You might engage an automotive engineer to write a report stating that the lights meet the performance requirements of the standard even if they are missing, for example, the markings.

What do these say?

The answer is to get a hold of the wiring diagram, work out what voltage is supposed to be where, when, and then work out why it is not there, then. I can't speak to the HR34 stuff, because I have never paid any attention to the NAs. There is a possibility that the turbo diagram will help, but it could also be different - depending on whether there is an FPCM on the NAs.

Putting the climate control CU into diagnostic mode is independent of the ECU. You just have to do the dance prescribed in the manual. No, I do not know what the dance is. I have an R32, so use the dance in the R32 manual. On older cars, I would have said "no, the ECU should not affect whether the A/C works".... but for an R34 that might be wrong. I don't recall the detail, but there was extra mods required to make my R32 A/C work against the R34 ECU. The R34 ECU apparently gets involved in the running of the A/C more than earlier cars did. Theoretically, if the PFC is a true plug in, then it should just work the way that the original ECU does - wrt A/C. But there's always scope for them to have not cared. Nope. Pressure switch out = getting the fridgey out to pump the gas out before pulling the switch. The switch really cannot sense gas pressure unless it is up against the gas.

Not properly. You need to be able to dissipate 100 amps or so to doing it meaningfully. You can do it indirectly by watching to see how far the voltage falls during cranking. Unplug the coils or something else to prevent it from starting so you can get a good couple or three chugs. It also helps if you have the multimeter set up reading before you start, and that it has max/min functions. So you can catch the real minimum without having to watch the screen, which often doesn't update fast enough to show the real max/min in dynamic situations. Or use a digital oscilloscope, which can be obtained for <<$100 from Aliexpress (although I'd argue for paying up to ~$200 for a nicer one). A >4 yr old battery will very likely be well down the path to the knackery. Many only last 5-6 years these days. The cold weather lately will definitely make it worse.

No. The simplest wastegate hookup, with no solenoid or other form of "boost control" (ie, control over your boost control, if you know what I mean) is a single hose, direct from the turbo outlet/hot pipe, straight and only to the wastegate actuator. It is that pressure signal that drives the wastegate to open, providing the boost control (and by "boost control" here, I mean, limiting how high it can go, which is essentially the spring pressure of the actuator). You only end up with tee pieces and alternate flow paths once you start adding things to the boost control system to allow you to determine how much of that boost signal makes it to the actuator. There are so many ways to do that that there is no single way to run the hoses and tees and the like. If you have a stock boost solenoid, then all it does is either allow all the boost signal to go to the actuator, or open up to allow some of it to bleed off. There needs to be a restriction in that bleeder to allow only a small amount to bleed off. And in a stock system, that would then be plumbed back to the turbo inlet (for "emissions control" reasons). That is actually what that nipple on your BOV return pipe could/would be for. If you have an aftermarket boost controller and solenoid, then the above is mostly true, but there is no need for a restrictor in the bleed, because the solenoid is pulse width modulated to create a variable bleed off. The air that escapes from the bleed can either be vented, or also returned to the turbo inlet. For emissions reasons it should be returned to inlet, but the amount of air being vented is so small that it really doesn't matter (either from an emissions perspective, or from an air-fuel ratio affecting perspective).

The cross sectional area of a circular hole scales with the square of diameter. So a 2mm diameter hole is 4x the area of a 1mm hole. Not double. The 1.7mm hole is nearly 3x the area of a 1mm hole. You do not need restrictors at both ends of the oil supply line. If you have new, additional restrictors at the turbo end, that you did not have before, then you do not need a restrictor at the inlet end.

There are several aftermarket options available, from not-too-painful moneyhttps://justjap.com/collections/driveshafts-bearings/products/d-max-reinforced-replacement-rear-driveshaft-set-fits-nissan-s13-s14-s15-r32-r33-r34-c35 and https://justjap.com/products/crank-motorsport-billet-rear-axles-fits-nissan-skyline-r33-gts-t-r34-gt-t?srsltid=AfmBOorQk4xkGUa98kO7v2ePLUiNt-HRrM2AwWNw9mbSIVE1ujBVwY__, all the way up to The Driveshaft Shop https://driveshaftshop.com/skyline-cv-axles/

Last couple of days it has been a "best of" collection of Leonard Cohen, ditto for Tracey Chapman, and Triple J's Like a Version Anthology 1-5. The first two are pure poetry.

Silicone spray lube and vice grips.

That one is definitely wrong. Wastegate is connected to turbo inlet (via being connected to the BOV return pipe, which is connected to the turbo inlet). That is bad, bad, bad. You are driving that without a boost reference. It should be overboosting.

The nipple is easy. It's not the turbo inlet pipe. It is the outlet of the turbo and it is the source of the boost signal to drive the wastegate.

I think you know exactly who I mean.

Yes, ther are plenty of [racist statement alert] terrifying 50+ yr old ladies of a certain ethnic origin who have no demerits yet still manage to park their cars on top of roundabouts, hanging out of multistory car parking structures and other wild shenanigans. Somehow they puddle through years of driving without ever attracting the attention of the cops, yet the whole time, they are an instant away from doing something spectactularly stupid.

But lowball him so you're not paying him too much for the work done!

This is why rust converter is phosphoric acid. The iron phosphate left behind stays attached to the parent metal. It's not steel (iron). But it's also not a hole.

'sif the error will be that low!