GTSBoy

The brake pad price is fine, for decent pads + fitting. The highmount brake light price could be fine or it could be ridiculous. Depends on why it's dead, what needs to be replaced. i concur with Leroy that the rest of the prices look a bit mad. I wouldn't expect to pay that much for the rear wheel bearings. Maybe half that, maybe a bit more than half. The control arms almost certainly don't need to be replaced. New bushes. The ARB links can't be that expensive. I just put 4 onto my car for less than that. The most expensive Whiteline ones are only ~$150 and they take 15 minutes to swap on the hoist.

That's a valid point. Google it. It's real, and it sucks (like the PowerFC, really).

It's probably the ECCS relay. But it could be just about any other wire, fuse or connection opening up.

Look to the operation of the ECCS relay too.....or whatever equivalent they had in the pre ECCS era - it'll be a relay that the ECU latches on to power itself.

Nothing wrong with mild steel. It's just heavier than aluminium, that's all. I'd be remaking the red one from scratch, probably try to find a better way than to jam it between the comp cover and the cam cover vent. The return pipe / outlet from the cooler is aids. I would prefer to relocate the outlet on the tank than try to make that pipe bend any tighter.

Hmm, not really. It's pretty well independent of boost - more just a case of being advanced intake valve timing in the lower half of the rev range (where it improves torque) and retarding it again in the top half of the rev range (where it again improves torque). It is off/retarded at idle/crawl revs because it is better for emissions. Having boost probably helps up high in the rev range.....but there's not really a lot of difference between VCT on DE and DET engines.

Stock range is about 1700-5400. It stops at that rev point because when it is on the valve timing it creates suits lower revs. You don't want it coming on as late as boost does, because a street car actually spends a lot of time at <boost threshold and you want the VCT to be available to help out and actually get you up to boost threshold. It's also got a TP threshold on it so it doesn't actuate unless you have enough throttle/load.

The GKTech fan is absolutely NOT better than the RB fan. They might claim that it is better than the SR fan (that it was designed to replace), but nearly every report of one used on an RB has been negative. Also, many brand new fan clutches to suit RBs are pure shit. A bunch of them are way too tight, making the car sound like a Patrol all the time, and some are too loose (or more to the point, need higher temperature to make them work) and the car won't get enough fan flow when it needs it. I went through the (usual) Dayco offering, and at least 3 others of various origin before giving up and putting a known good OEM one on my car. All were either too noisy or no damn good at cooling (except the Nissan one).

It is hard to understand how your R33 calipers could be "adjusted" to fit smaller rotors. It is often possible to make a new bracket to space a caliper out further to make it fit on a larger rotor, but the opposite is typically quite impossible. I personally have no knowledge of whether the caliper mounts on the rear uprights of these NA cars are any different (ie smaller radius) than on the turbo cars, but I can't imagine that they would be. As far as I can see though, they would have to be smaller to permit a 296mm caliper fit onto a 265mm rotor. In order to achieve your goal, I would have just said that all you need is the rotors and calipers from the donor R34 whose brakes you want to upgrade to (and probably the hoses too). But I would not bother doing it unless you are going to upgrade the front. You DO NOT want to increase rear braking torque without doing the same at the front. It does not matter that the rears would be 296 vs 280 at the front**. What matters is that the car is currently hydraulically set up to run 265mm at the rear (vs 280 at the front). Increasing the rear without increasing the front could make it much more able to lock up the rears (which is the fastest way to spin your car imaginable). **as an example of this, stock R32 GTSt is exactly that.

Seems like you're on the right track. Budget on making sure that you have an aftermarket 2-way mechanical centre put into the diff. Make sure you buy a 5-bolt - because the shafts and CVs are a little better. But you will probably want to also buy another diff to get hold of some ~3.7 gears. Most things R200 can be moved from diff to diff, but there are an annoying number of cases where they don't. There are 2 sizes of crownwheel bolts, for example.

Wait. So I was obnoxiously right and wrong in the same post?

There are 10 holes in each of those wheels.

There are times when taking it to a workshop that has that stuff is worth the investment. In my case it's easier and cheaper because brother-in-law, but I'd still do it regardless.

Well, judging by the poor state of the bumper just below the boot centreline, it has had a hit in the rear. It's probably bent/distorted where the latch bolts to the car.

I would suggest that either the boot lid or the car is a little bent. That's usually the simplest explanation for different alignments left-right.

Price isn't terrible. Depends where you're looking for them. Anywhere from $100 from someone who has plenty of them and sees little value in them, to $300+ where they are in shorter supply. How would we know? NA cars don't have LSDs. The factory LSD (from turbo Skylines, not GTRs) is a viscous LSD, which is poo, and is essentially open behind any engine with more than stock torque. Your proposed purchase could have an aftermarket centre in it for all we know. It could be from an NA. Does it have 5 bolt axles, or 6 (3 groups of 2)? Google images. But S chassis cars are R200 also. You won't find anything other than R200s in R and S chassis cars in Australia. S chassis cars have numerically lower gearing, in the 3.7 region. I would wager that the whole thing will be too wide for an old Capri. Some (probably extensive & expensive) surgery will likely be required. You could also consider MX-5 rear ends perhaps. What sort of power are you trying to cope with?

OK....Riddle me this. Where is the coolant coming from, to get from the inside of the head to the outside of the head? Where is the nearest coolant? Is it squirting from a hose and somehow finding its way under the coil cover? No, of course it isn't. The coolant is running in galleries in the head. There is either a crack, or a welch plug is leaking.

Coolant in the spark plug bores can only get there from a cracked head.

The smart thing to do is to put a degree wheel & pointer on the crank pulley, take off the cam covers so you can see what the lobes are doing (and perhaps mount a dial gauge to actually measure the valve events) and then see what's happening with the engine as it is currently assembled. You never know, the exhaust cam could be a dodgy grind, and the tooth was a crude correction. Or it could have just been a clumsy f**k when the belt was last changed. Either way, knowledge is power.

This would have to be THE MOST COMMONLY ASKED question on here. Ever thought about searching? Something something ignition system.

If there's room behind the cluster, it wold probably be the best spot to hide a converter box. Who knows?....I haven't looked, so I don't know, but maybe they had an electronic sender in the NA boxes in R33s too. It would make sense - they wouldn't want to have to fit a cable drive. And maybe the dash cluster has a switch on the back to select between the two different sender pulse rates. I'm just spitballing here, I may be full of crap. But it is possible. Hopefully someone who has played with R33 NAs in this fashion will chime in.

Add M90 in twincharge.

This is a terrible reponse to a genuine question. Are you spruking PA chipsets or FM transceivers? No?... maybe keep it to yourself next time. 'twas spam of the best sort.

But the standard halogen projectors are aids.

You need to keep the foot down more. Need boost to create +ve ex mani pressure to prevent those pesky air leaks.