GTSBoy

NAs use different rear damper lower mounts. NAs have different driveshafts (and shitty open diffs). NAs have little gearboxes. Most other things are the same.

You have either upset some wiring under the dash (in which case, we can't help you see what you've done), or you have a bad connection either on the 12V side or the earth side of the circuit for the flashers. These are usually switched to earth at the switch. I'm travelling and don;t have my wiring diagrams with me to double check this. Bad earths can cause all sorts of weird shenanigans. Get the wiring diagram and work it out.

You'd be wise to consider a proper retrofit of a complete HID projector. Search R32 Morimoto for guidance.

Collapsed bushes, worn (slotted) holes, bent arms, etc. All of these can cause camber to be wrong.

Ask the local crash repairers what chassis shop they use when they have cars that need detailed chassis straightening, or that can't be aligned after a repair. Go to that shop.

Should pull the GT badges off too. They're ugly.

Yuh, it's going to be broken coil pack connectors.

Perhaps solve the problem that's causing the camber to be so -ve, rather than sticking a bandaid on it? Or is it (the car) stupid low?

Geez Rice, you do go raging off on f**king tangents. Turning vanes for controlling air flow distribution are not rocket science. I once* fixed a power station using them (as well as a bunch of other flow treatments that I used extensive physical and mathematical modelling to select, optimise and prove). The wheel is older than you think. Professional aerodynamicists and other fluid flow engineers have been all over this stuff for a hundred years. *once, meaning nearly 20 years ago, when I was a very new engineer.

You just need a turbo that can flow ~550HP worth of air at something approaching 30 psi. Plus exhaust, cooler, fuel pump, injectors, coils and management that can handle it. And an RB25DET gearbox. and a good clutch. And a proper LSD. And wider rear tyres than you can realistically fit on an R32. RB20s at that power level have nothing, nothing, nothing, nothing, ALL THE TORQUE....at about 5000rpm.

Head studs back there could have been loose(r than the rest).

So it sounds like it is not pulsing the injectors. Put a noid light on and see if the ECU is even trying. Look for constant 12V to one side of each injector with a multimeter.

Yay. Finally a problem is something that was suggested, and not some other random crap!

They are f**koff loud without the silencer.

Yes, L has the -ve terminal on the left side. FWIW, I'm using an NS70 on my R32. Fits in the space. Is MUUUUUCH larger.

My one anal retentive addition/correction to Lith's rant is that gas is a fluid too. He means liquids.

There is a whole wheel fitment thread stickied at the top of this forum. But I would strongly suggest that 9.5" wheels in a strong GTR offset are going to stick out of the guards a reasonable distance.

Nope. Lots of noise with no performance impact is completely normal.

FFS. If it has an R200 diff in it then the GTST tailshaft will definitely fit, exactly as I have told you twice already. As to "why should I ask on a forum when I could just go find out myself?"........ ahh, if only people would.

Don't speak to the tuner. Find one who has a brain. He shouldn't be using any of that horseshit at 17 psi!

Z has 2 more plates, more capacity, is better choice. Both work. No physical difference on the outside of the box.

If you can get the right tailshaft, then it will fit without modification. Cut and shut of various tailshafts to make something fit is only required if you can;t get exactly what you want. It is standard practice here in Australia. When asked where to go here, I just say "Hardy Spicer". I am dead certain there would be equivalent places in Austria. I told you what other parts you need for the manual swap. The gearbox crossmember and the wiring loom. (and a flywheel and clutch if you don't get them with the engine/box).

It looks like a Neo. It does not have the R34's throttle body (the one that includes the additional TB for traction control). It could have been removed and replaced with something else (R33, or maybe cut down) or the whole engine could be from a Stagea. On a standard turbo @12 psi, using stock ECU (with Nistune in it) and a good tune, mine makes ~191rwkW on a pretty honest dyno. That's ~250HP at the wheels, ~340 HP at the flywheel. 350 HP at the engine is possible with just a tiny bit more boost, better engine, happier dyno, etc etc. Totally believable. It will feel fast, but not scary fast. You have no traction control. There is none. A tight mechanical LSD will clunk and carry on on tight slow turns. I will not give you advice on engine mods or turbo choices, as there are 299x10^85 threads on here. Do some searching. There's a whole sticky thread on turbos at the top of the Forced Induction forum. I can't comment on wheels. Google will be your friend.

RB20 box is a cable drive (in an R32). RB25DET box is electronic sender. These two drives are completely different. For example, to use an RB25DET box in an R32, you have to make a speedo drive that fits into the RB25DET box and provides a cable drive. You can't use the R32 RB20DET speedo cable drive because a), it wont fit into the big gearbox and b) if it did fit the gearing on it would be wrong. We typically build such a drive out of a Navara ute speedo drive (because they used the same big box but had cable drive speedo). You have the opposite situation, in that you have a box that should not have been able to take an electronic sender (the RB20DER box) in an R33, which does not have a cable drive speedo on the dash. So the first question is....how was the RB20 box speedo drive achieved? Is there an unexpected electronic sender in it (like, maybe from an S13?), and is there some sort of pulse frequency converter added into the wiring to get the frankensteined thing to read "correctly" on an mph speedo? If there is a signal converter, it might be responsible for messing with your now notionally "correct for the car" gearbox and sender installation.

A pool fire is a different thing. The fame you bring to the surface heats the liquid, evaporating some methanol, which burns in the vapour phase on top of the pool. A spray of 50:50 stands a good chance of smothering another flame, because there is so much ability for the spray's latent heat of evaporation to steal more heat than the flame can maintain. /rocket science.