GTSBoy

Will change overlap, but only by a tiny amount. I'm thinking that something really big is wrong and you should take it apart. This is generally how these threads go.

Let me state again.....how the hell can slightly tight clearances cause the effect you're seeing? It's just wrong to think that they can. The problem is elsewhere.

There is no way that slightly tight clearances can cause NO vacuum. Slightly less vacuum perhaps. But not none. You definitely have something very weird going on, and in my experience of these threads, it always turns out to be something that no-one could have guessed.

Sigh. It won't be the clearances.

There's also several fuses and the odd relay. Get the wiring diagrams and start poking around with a multimeter and/or test light. Internet diagnosis will not work here. You need to actively find the problem.

I have the RS4 on now, and I don't think they are as good a tyre as the V720. They are damn near silent by comparison - but then an earthquake under a Deep Purple concert with a flyby of the Blue Arrows is quiet, compared to the V720.

760mm column height of an arbitrarily dense and toxic liquid as measured on the surface of the planet Earth at precisely the elevation that gives the acceleration due to gravity at 9.807 m/s. And that's NOT how we're supposed to define units of pressure. /sheesh

700 engine HP in the UK. And where precisely will this actually be useful? 500 engine HP is already more than is useful on a streeter.

It's illegal because noise increase and because of the way that it is achieved - being tuning the ECU, which is quite illegal, because it is a modification of an emissions control system.

Wouldn't the test be as simple as; A: is it slow? B: is it REALLY f**kING slow? If A, then RB25DE, if B, then RB20DE. Right?

The only warranty you should hope for is the concrete warranty. Expecting anything more than that on a motor built to make >2x the stock power is hilarious.

Nope. By "regulator", I assume you mean the whole mechanism. The longer windows on the coupe mean they bolt to different place in the door and have the runners arranged differently.

No. Now that you have to buy a gearbox, buy one that won't shit itself behind an RB25. Buy an R33 gearbox. Spend more money, yes gasp, more money, on the box, and a little extra on getting the tailshaft cut and shut.

Oh f**k. Really? Of course it's illegal. f**king stupid.

Sounds like one of those WOFTAM bitsi turbos with both T3 and T4 bolt holes. Cheap shitty idea.

More force. Break the boot if you have to. Fix accordingly. It's the cost of doing something not-so-clever.

Is it sitting on the engine mounts correctly? If it is, then that is the position and that will determine the length of the tailshaft. However the position ends up as a function of the above mounts, you then can usually choose between the 3 different Nissan S & R chassis gearbox mounts (marked A, B & C) to get one that will line up with both the gearbox and the chassis holes. But this does not affect the tailshaft length. If you haven't got the engine sitting on the mounts in the engine bay properly, start there. That may then lead to you being able to use the stock tailshaft. If not...... I don't know if this is true or not, but it quite possible that the front half of the auto tailshaft is a different length to the manual tailshaft, and maybe something dodgy was done when the car was manual converted previously.

Will be further away from the surge line when feeding a larger engine. More airflow at the same boost is further to the right on the comp map.

I think he's saying that the S15 s slightly heavier than the S14, so why would he choose an S15 over an S14? My answer would be because the S15 is a much better car. He's then asking if there are any advantages of the S15 over the R33....because something something to do with the weight difference between an RB25DE and an SR20VE. And then claiming that S15 and R33 weigh the same if they have the same engine in them. Which is not quite true, because with turbos etc, an R33 GTST is at least 100kg heavier than an S15.

Remember that EMAP is a function of how hard you need to drive the compressor. The only reason for EMAP to go a lot higher on the 3L bottom end than the 2.5 is if you try to make a lot more power. If you start with the same power as a target, you will almost certainly need less boost, and this could even result in a reduction in EMAP (because boost costs more drive power in a compressor than flow does). I wouldn't stress. They're still baby cams too, and you have gears, so you're insulated against the unlikely outcome of needing to deal with reversion.

S15.

That car is perfect.

Its function is to open up when cold to allow a lot of extra air through to give you your cold fast idle. It is electrically heated and closes up as it (and presumably) the engine warms up. After that the normal idle control valve takes over (but is not necessarily large enough to flow enough air to give the required cold fast idle). What are you using for management and idle control? If using aftermarket ECU and a TB with a decent stepper motor idle control valve (or good separate idle control valve) then you could get rid of this one. But if you just ditch it without taking that sort of thing into consideration, it might be a bit grumpy when cold.

In that case.....Nistune is great. Runs an RB properly. There are some extra hurdles to jump sometimes, particularly with Neos, because the factory ECU started to get loaded up with extra sensors and protections that need to be worked around. A Link, or any equivalent aftermarket ECU will be able to do things that you just can't do with Nistune, like run auxiliary shit, extra boost control function, etc etc. By the same token, the Nissan ECU can penetrate the noise you get in the Nissan CAS signal far better than Haltechs can - because Nissan are responsible for both halves of the system and put a lot of effort into filtering the noise. Effort that Haltech probably haven't, because Haltech have to make their stuff work with a zillion CAS types. And where I know Haltech is not as good in that area, it is fair to assume that others, like Link, might suffer compared to the stocker. There's compromises to the left and to the right, regardless of which path you choose.

Thirsty RB25 + boost + massive land barge <> economical operation!!!!!!