GTSBoy

RB20 box is a cable drive (in an R32). RB25DET box is electronic sender. These two drives are completely different. For example, to use an RB25DET box in an R32, you have to make a speedo drive that fits into the RB25DET box and provides a cable drive. You can't use the R32 RB20DET speedo cable drive because a), it wont fit into the big gearbox and b) if it did fit the gearing on it would be wrong. We typically build such a drive out of a Navara ute speedo drive (because they used the same big box but had cable drive speedo). You have the opposite situation, in that you have a box that should not have been able to take an electronic sender (the RB20DER box) in an R33, which does not have a cable drive speedo on the dash. So the first question is....how was the RB20 box speedo drive achieved? Is there an unexpected electronic sender in it (like, maybe from an S13?), and is there some sort of pulse frequency converter added into the wiring to get the frankensteined thing to read "correctly" on an mph speedo? If there is a signal converter, it might be responsible for messing with your now notionally "correct for the car" gearbox and sender installation.

A pool fire is a different thing. The fame you bring to the surface heats the liquid, evaporating some methanol, which burns in the vapour phase on top of the pool. A spray of 50:50 stands a good chance of smothering another flame, because there is so much ability for the spray's latent heat of evaporation to steal more heat than the flame can maintain. /rocket science.

Will not work with PFC, which needs the Nissan trigger pattern.

Look at the wiring diagram out of the service manual. The pump is controlled by the ECU, so you need to understand where the wires come from to know when they should be powered/earthed. Randomly jumping power into the relay circuit is not necessarily going to help, and may do the opposite.

But but but. People are buying them at high prices

Only ever going to go up.

Those old lebtechs were good.

There would have to be thousands of pages of information on the net about doing this. Not with your exact car specifically, because those turds only ever got imported into Australia by accident. Most people have never seen one. I have. Lifted the bonnet, looked at the engine, sighed, and walked away. But, spoonfeeding mode on...... Your stock diff is probably physically strong enough (provided that it is an R200 and not an R180) to take stock RB25DET power. But it will be an open diff, which means it will suck testicles and spin one wheel freely. Plan to replace it. Your stock diff and axles are 6 bolt (3x2). These are slightly weaker than the turbo's 5 bolters, but will be fine. I'm using 3x2s in my R32 with neo turbo. But if you change to a different diff, you may end up needing 5 bolt stub axles and driveshafts. Turbo tailshaft will fit diff. At the very least you will need the front yoke of the turbo tailshaft and you could get a driveshaft workshop/manufacturer to modify by cut and shut. Yes, absolutely. The little auto gearbox in your car will not last long behind a 25DET. Go manual or go home. Transmission crossmember, wiring loom for the RHS side of the engine bay down to the gearbox. Don't know for sure. I care so little for R33s, and no-one cares about the RB20DE autos, that I have no idea where to look for the information you need. There is an even chance that the speedo will be compatible - all you would need is the correct sender in the gearbox. But there is also a chance that they were mechanical drive...in which case there is plenty of information on how to do the conversion (for R32s specifically).

The failure when reading voltage does not align with the smoothly changing resistance you measure on the TPS itself. I suggest you test the wiring to the car/ECU more thoroughly, particularly the TPS's loom plug. You could also build your own circuit and test the TPS off the car. Just need a stack of AA batteries to give you 6V and a little bit of wire. Use multimeter to look at voltage across the TPS and perhaps current flowing through it (probably want another limiting resistor in that circuit too, just in case the TPS can't take all that an AA battery can provide).

Of course there isn't a reg in there. It's just a pot. If it's not working like a pot, then it's broken.

It only requires people in one place to be willing to pay lots for the prices to stay high. Guess where that place is atm.

Try the old head unit again.

I would have said that 700+HP was well into 100mm territory anyway.

They're also NOT putting the RB26 back into production. They are putting the block back into production. And the block has always been available anyway, so this doesn't really change much. The head going back into production is a little bit of a bigger deal, but not a lot. Not making whole engines.

What do you mean it looks the same!? The Nissan side of it is the same. Of course it is. The BOV side is completely different. Look at the bloody bolt spacing! And paper gasket. Buy gasket making paper and cut a gasket out.

Open the other door and look at that one.

Don't worry about the stock gauge. It's clearly stuffed. Trust the Profec.

You should be able to get rid of all the CO by removing fuel. Don't trust your AFR gauge. Put a proper 4 gas analyser on the car (you'll need to find a workshop with one). Running stoich or very close to it should produce very little CO. Might make a shit tonne of NOx, but you didn't ask about that. I say "should", but you have 700cc Sard injectors. These are, to put it politely, shit. You may well find yourself needing to replace them with something modern to try to get a better spray pattern at low pulse widths.

You can't really learn anything by pulling out the loom except that it won't work at all while it is out. Sometimes pulling the plugs apart and putting them back together makes a bad connection good again. Of course, sometimes it makes a good connection bad. The reality is that you either don't have power or you don't have the ECU providing ground at the injector. It's either bad wires or a bad ECU.

Ooh. Yuck! Group fire. That means that the ECU is firing 3 injectors at the same time, then the other 3, then the original 3, etc etc. A bit shitty. Does the ECU not have enough drivers for sequential injection? At least that means that there only needs to be 2 injector drivers failed in the ECU to explain the fault. Of course, it could be a configurational fault, in that maybe the injectors are switched off or something. But you said that the car ran at some point then wouldn't run. So it sounds like not a configuration problem. You need to disconnect the at least one set (3) of the injectors at the ECU and simply put your noid light direct onto the ECU terminal. Of course with 12v connected to the other side of the noid light. If you get no pulse at the ECU itself, then it's not even trying to fire the injectors.

Keep in mind that injectors are fairly simple. 12v goes in one side and the ECU earths the other side.

Is your post in italics because your question is sarcastic? /notsureifserious

What? An accidentally installed check valve? It does change upwards when you boost it, yes?

So, now you need to use the wiring diagrams and the multimeter to look for where the power is coming to, where the earth is (usually through the ECU's injector pin) and make sure there's power where there is supposed to be and no other wiring problems. If there is no pulse, then the ECU is the likely culprit.

Yuh, sensor or gauge is f**ked. Sensors are piezoelectrical. Hit them hard enough (physically, or electrically) and they will die.