
GTSBoy
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Everything posted by GTSBoy
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R32 Gearstick and handbrake shrouds
GTSBoy replied to LINK17's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
This crowd, and at least 1 or 2 others out of the UK, are doing stuff like this... https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BLACK-STITCHING-FOR-SKYLINE-R32-89-94-LEATHER-GEAR-BOOT-HANDBRAKE-BOOT-SET/351879677170?hash=item51eda9c4f2:g:UMcAAOSw8gVYAzAo I bought years ago. They're great. -
Oil can creep forward or backward from cam seals. Usually ends up looking like your motor.
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sa R34 GT-T 2dr Seats
GTSBoy replied to GTSBoy's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Sold. Thanks Luke. -
sa R34 GT-T 2dr Seats
GTSBoy replied to GTSBoy's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Hi mate. Seats are still here. I PM'd you back. Just letting you know, in case you haven't seen it. -
That's if you're happy to vent to atmosphere, which is stupid and illegal.
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Finding Nissan parts at local dealerships...
GTSBoy replied to LTSJayce's topic in Australian Capital Territory
Both of them, and JustJap. -
Powersteering Rack Question R32 HCR32
GTSBoy replied to R324u's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
No it's not. The feed goes from res to pump. That's a return line. Have you got the line that used to go into it? -
R34 rb25 speedo wiring
GTSBoy replied to R34 rocket bunny sedan's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
You can search this. But for your benefit, I will type it all out, once again. Gearbox sender is Sawtooth (AC) +/- 1V signal that goes to the speedo head. Frequency depends on speed. Separate wires then run from the speedo head to the ECU (actually, it's really only 1 wire) that carries a 0-5V square wave PWM signal where the pulse width carries the speed signal. Get the wiring diagram out and make it like that. -
There's no evidence of valve springs on the charts, so unless they have good reason to say they think there's float, do the cooler first. And by "do the cooler", I don't mean replace it. I mean tap into the pipe up and downstream of it and check the actual pressure drop across it.
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Likely that the water tap is jammed/sticky.
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The hubs that suit struts are not the same as the hubs that suit the double wishbone uprights, as far as I know. I might be wrong, but I think the hubs are different.
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Front or rear? Rear should be the same, because the back of a Stagea is the back of a Skyline. The fronts probably not, because Stageas have strut front ends, right? And Skylines don't.
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Depends..... If the bumper is made to fit GTT (and therefore not explicitly GTR) and is perhaps intended to be used with the GTT bonnet, and the GTT bonnet has a different shape (lower, flatter) to the GTR bonnet, then that would explain it. However, seeing as it is probably all one kit to make a GTT look like Z-tune GTR, that might be poor logic. Otherwise, I have no ideas.
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No S15 ever had an RB20 from the factory. You're thinking SR20, and SR20 connected to RB gearboxes is, as you suggest, a tried and true thing to do. RB20/25/26 into S chassis has been done so many times that you will only find about 13 gonktrillion threads about it all over the internet. Search.
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Is R33 Gtr Air Box Same As R34 Gtr
GTSBoy replied to walkoau's topic in General Automotive Discussion
If I Recall Correctly. Because the front panel (radiator support panel, bonnet fit, etc) are not necessarily compatible. -
RB26 compression test results High??
GTSBoy replied to sideskyimport#'s topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Do you really trust that compression tester? -
At what point are upgraded valves required?
GTSBoy replied to Murray_Calavera's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Ceramic coat the face and back side (not the seat surfaces) instead? -
97 stagea 260RS gtr conversion
GTSBoy replied to Crawdaddy07's topic in Four Door Family & Wagoneers
I think he means the front end panels. -
RB25DET engine have differnet versions?
GTSBoy replied to JC71's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Probably converted from an NA using a Stagea engine. -
R33 GTR speed sensor problem?
GTSBoy replied to Snara's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
NP. Glad you could do it yourself. I've pretty much given up on suggesting that people break out a soldering iron! -
Borrow a scan tool. Pay deposit. Walk it around the corner. Use it. Take it back. Take a mechanic with you if they won't let it out of their sight.
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This, and more of this. The smart approach to codes is scan tools. You cannot make a system go into diagnostic mode if the song and dance required to make it do so relies on one of the inputs that might need diagnosis.
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Get the codes out of it and find out what it is unhappy about.
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R33 GTST 4 piston / spot / pot calipers. In good working order. Came off my car working, removed due to an upgrade. Still wet with fluid inside. Seals look good. Have been stored wrapped in plastic in a box in the shed. Complete with pins, shims and cross springs. All good, just need a clean. The short hard lines are attached. I have OEM rubber lines for and R32 if you need. Also removed from my car working, as part of the upgrade. I have some ~50% used stock (or maybe Bendix Ultimate) type pads that will suit, if you need. No charge. I have matching 296mm rotors if you're desperate. But they are only just over 28mm thick and will likely go below minimum if they're skimmed. Not worth shipping these anywhere - better off putting the money towards new rotors. Asking $300 shipped in Australia. Polite offers considered.
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Hi, R34 GT-T 2dr / coupe seats. They're in pretty good condition. I bought them and never installed them in anything. I only put a little effort into cleaning them up. The driver's seat shows a little pilling on the pale grey part of the seat base, a little discolouration on the lower part of the seat back. I also did a little repair to the foam on the RHS thigh bolster. Passenger seat has nothing worth pointing out. Photos should tell the tale. No seat belt buckles on these. I would like to move them on without losing too much money. So I'm looking for $200 or other polite offers. At this price/value point, it's barely worth the effort to find boxes and go to the effort to ship them anywhere. So prefer sale in/around Adelaide. If you wanna inspect, that can be arranged in the northern 'burbs or central west (Thebarton) easily enough. Oh - one last thing. I did pull out the locating pins under the driver's RHS rail/runner. They dowel down into the floor's cross frame through the carpet. These are not essential (earlier cars didn't have them). I still have them and they could be straightened up and put back on if you need/want.