GTSBoy

Really, no-one can solve this for you across the internet. Your problem is either in the ECU, or it is in the wiring. Do you know how to use a multimeter?

The problem with interfering with the system will be the consequences should the car be in an accident. I'm dead sure that the black box will become one of the things that the crash investigators and insurance companies will want to interrogate. You can bet your arse that your arse will be on the line should it be found to be bypassed. Memory is cheap these days, so they could theoretically log everything for the entire life of the car, not just the last couple of days. I realise that this is Oz, and not the good ol' US of A, but this is yet another serious impingement upon civil liberties. It is bullshit. Arbitrary speed limits are bad enough, but rigorously enforcing them to the point of clamping vehicle speed is the worst sort of nanny state crap. Where the hell is personal responsibility, etc etc, blah blah? So long as the car is under my control, it should be under my control. The only acceptable alternative is for no-one to have any control over their cars. They just all join into a central computer controlled conga line when driving out onto the roads and let Skynet look after us. Up until it gets hacked and we all die at the same time, anyway.

Is not the GTR boost gauge MAP sensor supposed to be connected to the little plenum that taps into the intake runners downstream of the throttle plates? How would it ever read vacuum if it were not?

The Link is telling lies then?

Front bar may be decent, but the droopy nose on the bonnet is just sad.

You should search on here for the collective opinion on modifying (turboing) NA cars.

Yes and no. Guards can bolt on, but look stupid with narrow rear panels. Bonnet bolts on, but you need to change the front support that holds the latch to a GTR one. Headlights are different. The GTR ones work with the GTR grille, where the GTSt ones don't. The bumper will go straight on, but does not quite fit properly on the narrow guards. I have GTR bonnet, grille and bumper on mine. It's the only way to make an R32 look less like a Paseo.

Non turbo. Non exciting.

I'm at the point now of wanting to egg Drifter on. I really think that an un-planned, non-understood WMI implementation running at full stink with no tune is going to add wonderfully to the catch-can oil loss problems in a delightful way. I'm just sad that being on the opposite side of the world, we shall likely be unable to see the resulting mushroom cloud.

Sudden stops have previously been shown to be caused by the ECCS relay. Sometimes AFM. Sometimes bad wiring in the fuel pump.

All RWD blocks have the same sump mating flange. These days, sump gaskets come out of a tube anyway.

R32 GTSt

You're going to have to chase the loom with a multimeter. There's nothing we can do to help you find the vehicle specific fault that is causing that. It could be anything from a broken wire to a multi-pin plug not assembled correctly. Start probing. Use the RB20 wiring diagrams from the R32 GTR workshop manual.

I would think it means it has a blockage in the galleries somewhere. When I bought my Neo it took a year and >6 coolant flushes to get it clean. When it first went in there was muck blocking up all the small passages. I had to dig the bleeders out to even get coolant to move through there. The heater not working points to a stuck heater tap. They get gooey crap in them and it can make it too hard for the actuator to push it.

Yup, that's f**ked. Corrosion pit, by the looks. Needs to be bored out.

Methanol is not dangerous to store. A properly set up system should only use a few litres per month. WMI is heaps better than water only, although water only does work. But you're not listening to us about the bandaid.

Actually, that is correct. It ends up running at ~90°. When you said "82°" I thought you meant the running temp, not the start of opening.

No, what you do is you undo them a little to let the air out, then close them when coolant starts to come too. Swap back and forth between those and the other things you're doing while you're trying to bleed it all up. That's why they're called bleed screws.

Yuh, the bleed screws are for bleeding while it's getting hot also. Air will get trapped up there if you leave them closed.

Red coils is dead coils.

I concur with these guys. ^ . It's not bled properly. And put a 90° thermostat back in it. Neos aren't meant to have 82° thermostats.

You don't need WMI for what you problem is. It sounds like your turbo is making the air waaaaay hotter than it should. You should first investigate what the hot side air temp is under load. WMI is a bandaid in this situation. You'd be better off finding out what is actually wrong and dealing with it. That might mean a different tuner, because this guy's clearly not able to punch through the evidence to the source. And, to answer your specific questions.....yes, demin water is required because tap water has salts in it that dry and deposit when it evaporates. If you think about the process you are using the water for, I think it will become obvious why that is important. And methanol is methanol. Any industrial grade near pure methanol will be fine, so long as the balance of the mix is not something bad, like formaldehyde. If it is 95% meth and balance water......

Need more volts to bridge a bigger gap. Only so many volts available. Yellowjacket volts are also a mixture of randomly selected small and medium sized volts instead of a consistent selection of standard metric volts.

No, he meant Freddy, as in the cheap Chinese knockoffs of the Greddy plenum that everyone has been calling Freddy for the last 15 years or so.

Why the hell is any "top shelf" damper being made in a twin tube design in this day and age? FFS!