GTSBoy

Thirsty RB25 + boost + massive land barge <> economical operation!!!!!!

I don't think you can Nistune an S1 Stagea ECU. Same-ish as R33, no?

Where a 265/30-19 has almost exactly the same rolling radius (321mm) as a 235/45-17 (321.5mm), the 265/35-19 is somewhat taller, at 334mm. That's nearly 4% more, which will give a speedo error (reading slower) of that much. What is the stock tyre size for an R34? Is it 225/45-17? If so, then all the radiuses I've listed above are actually a little taller even than the stock tyre, which is only 317mm. So the error for the 265/35 over the stock tyre is a bit more than 5%. These aren't huge problems. Just worth keeping in mind.

Have you thought about how low the tyre profile would need to be to run 19s without significantly increasing the rolling radius? For 235 wide, you'd need 35 profile tyres to match the 235/45-17 that is pretty much perfect on a 17. 35 profile tyres are not great for a regular street car (in terms of protecting the rims from potholes, etc, nor for comfort). If you try to go up to 265 width, you'd need to go down to 30 profile to get the same sidewall height. Not shitcanning the idea of 19s, just pointing out the consequences. You would use a 40 and a 35 for each of the above widths on an 18" rim.

Fix the VQ35.

If the R230 from the Z32 is viscous, then I would suggest that they would be different to the GTR stubs. The GTR is a mech centre and the splines will be equal length. R200 VLSDs have unequal length splines on the stubs, and whilst I don't know for sure that an R230 VLSD would also have unequal length, I would suggest it would be likely. If the Z32 R230 is mechanical, then it really should all be swappable with the GTR one. Having said that.....the R33 GTR will have ABS stubs won't it? And the Z32 didn't have it?

I'm not sure how that can be true. I put an R33 RB25DE box into my R32. The R32 cable drive sender went into that one as if it was the same same. Which it, of course, was. But you still have to make a cable speedo drive for the big box, which I did when I put the R33 turbo box in. So I can't see the elec sender for the R33 DE box being the same piece as the R33DET box.

I would pay the 2K for the rebuild. It's $3300 for a brand new R34 box (which you could use but only with the cost of another clutch). No, you can't use the RB20DET speed sender. The R32 was cable drive. To use an R33 box in an R32 we have to make a cable drive adapter using something from a Navarra. I'm not sure that work has been done to try to fit an electronic sender into an RB20DET box. Having said that, the same box was used in NA R33s, so maybe they had an electronic drive. Just don't know, because don't care about NA cars!

It'll go in. You will need to modify your tailshaft - which should be enough reason to not do it. The 20DET box is the same box as the 25DE, so they do fit natively in the R33. So you can use the front half of an NA car's tailshaft to mod yours. You will probably need to choose the appropriate gearbox crossmember from the available options (A, B or C) and you will need to consider whether you could make the speedo work (hint, unlikely). And....if you have boosted the RB25 at all, expect the box to last about a year before the input shaft bearing starts to carry on.

And? Should still shoot flames.

I have no idea what works with the stupid Stagea auto situation.

200rwkW is possible (just) without a turbo upgrade. The turbos you have mentioned are good for >250 and will be wasted at ~200. There are better, more modern, less noisy pumps these days. Mostly Walbros still. Worth considering other options. If you're buying 1000cc injectors, make sure that they are really good ones. You won't be needing that much capacity for your power targets, but you will need good ECU control over low pulsewidths. There are bad choices of injectors out there with poor matching, poor low pulsewidth spray patterns, etc.

This is a Consult port The 3 important wires are those that connect to RX, TX and CLK. They are AF01, AF11 and AF32, respectively. Colour codes are also shown. This is the same Consult port, now with the wiring down to the W-2 connector shown. That's the ECCS harness, which proceeds to the ECU. You can see the same wire numbers turn up on the RHS of that plug. But you don't have to follow it from here, because.... This is a snip of the ECU, showing those same wires on pins 21, 22 & 31, in order. There's also the CHK pin on 47, which is the one you can short to earth at the Consult plug to convince the ECU to go into diagnostics and flash the check engine light to reads codes. You can see CHK in the Consult port image. But that would assume that the ECU has been wired to the check engine light properly.

It's got an RB25DET (at least) with a bigger turbo on it, which would explain it being fast. The body appears to be a bit rough - at least the paint does. Not enough other photos to see. The chassis is an unknown. Could be anywhere from $5k if it has a lot of problems out to high teens.

RB20DET ECU has an LED. It's next to a knob that you use to trigger it. You can also wire up the Consult port. Easy as. The RB20DET ECU wiring diagram and pinout tables are freely findable with 2s of googling. It's a serial connection - there's not a lot of pins to hook up.

Yeah, but to avoid wasting half the potential improvement, the budget really needs to include an AFM and injectors, likely a fuel pump, conceivably a clutch. But what's another grand or two? I otherwise completely agree.

Not really. A big aftermarket manifold might improve your top end power a little bit compared to the stocker. But only a little bit. So little that you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference. I mean, we're talking the difference between 195 and 200 rwkW. There might be a small improvement in spool response. Or there might be a decrease in spool response. Depends a lot on the specifics of the manifold that you put on. One with big runners designed to support heaps of flow/power will likely suffer in spool. One that is carefully designed to get the gases to the turbo efficiently might improve your spool, but won't support as much flow and power and is therefore unlikely to be something that many manufacturers would have on their list of existing offerings. No-one's really going to spend up to $2k on a manifold to optimise the response of a stock sized turbo. And your car is unlikely to be "at least 200rwkW" right now. It will be lucky to make a real 200rwkW at that boost on the stock turbo. Mine makes a trustworthy 190rwkW with the same mods (different ECU, but still, tuned). I could possibly give up some safety in the tune to get it up to 200, but they're really not going to go a lot higher than that. Optimistic dynos not being part of my consideration, of course.

Nope. It's stainless. It will retain its strength until ~1000°C.

Yes. Be very gentle. The TC sheath is very thin stainless (or inconel) and is packed with a dry mineral around the wires inside. You should be able to reshape it a little bit, so long as you don't end up crimping it. Try to support the sheath as much as you can (like you would if mandrel bending something) to prevent it folding.

Oops. :p Probably explains the GARRETT cast onto the comp housing then, hey?

They're not "called" anything. They were made by Hitachi as an OEM supply to Nissan. Nissan think of them as their Nissan part number. Hitachi probably call them by the contract number with Nissan. To the rest of us they are; The RB20 turbo, The RB25 turbo (often called the 21U, and note that I typo'd U21 in my previous post) The RB25 Neo turbo. There are a few little variations in flavour there, in that the nylon compressor wheel made an appearance on the later 21U turbos, and the OP6 turbine housing also appeared on the VG30DET turbo, but the compressor was different to the RB25 turbos. The only thing that is at least consistent is that I _think_ that the ceramic turbine is the same piece on all of them. I think there was only one design.

And quite possibly adhesive/sealant squirted along behind, depending on who/what was responsible for putting them on last.

Nope. Mostly wrong. All RB20,25 turbos and all VG single turbos are Hitachi made, with a T3 flange. So they are not T25 or T28. Nor are they really T3. They have a T3 flange and are in the ballpark of T28 size, or thereabouts. But they are not Garrett and therefore they are not T anything. The OP6 housing is larger than the U21 housing. Yes. CA & SR turbos are neither T25 nor T28. They have a T28 flange on them, yes, but again, they are not Garrett, therefore they are not T anything. They are all ceramic.......except the CA/SR turbos, which are not.

Ignition coil is a possibility. As is dirty/cracker dizzy cap, or worn wipers/posts inside it. Could be a cracked head. They used to miss like that in VLs with cracked heads, and they were often worse when warmed up.

World of hurt. The sage old advice we give people who want to do this to a Skyline is applicable here, multiplied by about 100. Sell it. Buy a manual car.