GTSBoy

Dammit, that would have been so much better if my post got in first.

Clean the wet spot off with degreaser, run the AC for a little while and go back and have a look.

Should take >20 psi without damaging anything. Just needs to not have whatever problem is causing the misfire and a check of the tune to make sure it was actually tuned to take the boost.

It's a fair assumption. They're solid, not hydraulic, so "stuck lifter" has a different meaning. Stuck hydraulic lifters are not uncommon. Stuck buckets are a bad sign.

Worth a look then.

Well, there's your problem. Now find out why.

It's no so much the cooling down as it is the brakes, the strength of the chassis (which will stretch if pulling more load than it can handle, especially uphill). Just rolling along for hundreds of km at a steady speed won't cause any grief at all, except with the coppers if they decide you look like you belong on Highway Patrol.

Except that he said it would go hard if it was already rolling, whereas a soft inlet collapse should prevent that too.

Nice. That's a charcoal version of mine. RB20 can make power, but they are nowhere near as pleasant to drive around as a 25. The extra torque, especially off idle, just makes them so much easier to drive around in traffic. I frequently drive mine 1-3-5 or 2-5, which is not really feasible with the 20. So I think you either turn the 20 into a 10000 rpm screamer, or plan on a bigger transplant.

This is not an RB quirk. You're either losing fuel or spark (either totally, or just enough to stall it). You should get a laptop (with Nistune) hooked up to it and look at the feedback as you drive it to stall.

What is actually going on is that stupid things have been done to your engine management. Injectors that have no relationship to the fuel tables in the ECU is what's going on.

It looks like it should. It's certainly more than double the XS area of the 2 main inlets, so it should be less restrictive than the pipework leading to it. Doesn't mean that the whole package isn't just being pushed too hard by excessively large amounts of blowby. Probably should check that, as described above.

PCV, just for the sake of correctness. I read your post wondering why anyone would use PVC plastic in their intake tract on the pressure side, then I realised what you were talking about. PVC<>PCV.

Yuh, so long as there is no flow, there is no such thing as "pressure drop" in a pneumatic system. There may be a slight delay in transmitting a pressure change from one end to the other (of a long hose) because you do have to blow a little bit of air into the hose to increase the pressure, but the speed of sound is like 1000km/h, so the delay is imperceptible. I have a ProSport boost gauge and it routinely reads differently to the boost display on my Profec, both connected to the same source. 10+ year old pressure transducers cannot be expected to be 100% perfect. If you are worried, borrow a high quality, recently calibrated manometer from someone and do a check/calibration of what you have so you know which one is closer to correct. Keep in mind that the error of any pressure instrument can change from the low end of the range to the high end, especially if the error is some sort of zero-offset like my Pro-Sport has (it sits lower than zero with the power on but engine off).

I'm pretty sure that in SA a car will not pass an identity inspection at Regency without the manufacturer's plate on it, as well as the compliance plate. I might be wrong, but I'm pretty sure they had a good look at all of the plates on my car when it was ID'd. It's going to vary from state to state.

I'm not going to argue with the rest of your post, because it is all perfectly sound. But, I think the story is something more like there were something like 3 days over the last summer where SA was not a nett exporter on the interconnector to Vic. The situation wrt how much power is available in each state is in such flux lately that you have to keep up with the times, or your information will be out of date from month to month, let alone year to year. Anyway, I'm not arguing against your argument that charging cars off the grid is going to pose a challenge. I will go so far as to say, though, that with the v.large amount of renewables coming on line all the time, + some exciting new storage technologies (a couple of companies in SA using molten silicon phase change latent heat as storage, with massive energy density and no problems with cycling many many times) we may well get to a point in the next few years where we literally have so much power available that the prices could actually fall - especially peak prices. In fact I expect the advent of storage to kill half the reason to even have storage (that being peak pricing and taking advantage of it by selling from storage when the price is high!). Of course, any such fall could be perilous to the new (expensive) technologies that cause it to happen.....so probably expect to see a very measured and throttled addition of these things to the network. As to the population decrease....I suspect it will happen naturally. In SA something like 40% of the population are addicted to meth. With a little luck they will all die of cis-natural causes over the next 5 years. The current tail end Gen-Ys and the new Gen-Zs are likely to be incapable of breeding because they won't be able to work out how to actually have sex from the safety of their own bedroom via a phone app with their gender non-specific girl/boy/what friend who is cocooned in their own bedroom somewhere else.

Bring out the gimp. Um, I mean, bring out the multimeter.

A tiny dob of exhaust silicone in 2 locations would have to hold it still without interfering with the compression & sealing as it's done up. Especially if you keep those dobs outboard of the bolt holes.

Yeah...but it is part of the identity of the car. In this post Sydney crime gang car rebirthing world that we live in, trying to do something that sounds easy in your head can rapidly run up against the moral outrage of the authorities.

The most likely on an infrequently used car is the injectors. But realistically, anything on my list can start out of the blue. My diagnostic process would be to put it on a dyno. Check fuel pressure and mixtures & listen for real knock in a nice controlled environment. Better than spending hours and hours staring at it and fiddling with shit and never getting anywhere.

That's a pretty sharp edge! I almost think it should have Testarossa strakes in it to give it that full on early 90s look! I look forward to seeing it with some paint.

Those fireproof sleeves are pretty bloody good. If you can get any other more primary heat shield in there (even just the coating) it should be survivable. If you want to exercise paranoia, you could slip a thermocouple in there with the loom at the likely hottest spot and see what it gets up to. If you're comfortable, then leave it like that. If not comfortable, then you plan to reroute the loom.

Many people will have had the same problem. Either the knock is real, or it is imaginary. If imaginary, then it is the knock sensor or the PFC having delusions. If real, it will be caused by one of a whole range of possible causes and no-one out here will be able to tell you which; Faulty/dirty injector causing a lean cylinder, Faulty coil/igniter firing early. Possible, but not real likely. Oil blowby coming around in the intake and ruining the octane rating of the fuel. Something hot/damaged/sharp in a cylinder causing a detonation initiation point. Adding to the list after remember that I forgot to put some stuff on.... CAS maladjustment Belt skipped a tooth Something weird with the belt tensioner

It's got to come down to the shop that did the compliance. Different states, etc etc, yada yada. The cars don't cross borders east-west that often.