GTSBoy

Actually, that may not be true. The ECU can be pretty flexible about not having the TCU on-line. ABS & TCS can be a lot more bitchy, but if it's NA, it won't have any of that anyway.

Because, dickhead, I spend half to 2/3 of my free time not having free time. I was in Bunbury all last week, for work, for example. When I communicate with you across the internet, I could be in the US, or in Belarus (shudder, ick), or the middle east somewhere (even more ick) or Thailand, or the UK. Or Gladstone, or Roxby Downs or any of a raft of shitholes in Victoria (like Morwell....even more ick). So occasionally it is actually easier to get some other schlub to do the work of rounding up some unusual parts for me.

Meth is a powerful drug.

It's not true. I have RB20 flywheel on 25Neo using the Neo's starter. They are all the same. You are going to have to Nistune the ECU otherwise it will pack a sulk from not having comms with the TCU. Just for clarity, this is a non-turbo Neo & auto you're talking about, right?

Boost what you have. It has to be the simplest option of the lot.

If that oil temp gauge is correct, then, yes it is a bit hot. Mine runs just over 90°C (real, on an aftermarket gauge), which is very similar to the water thermostat temp. Given that the oil and water exchange with each other under the oil filter, that's to be expected. It only gets as hot as your photo shows when crawling along in traffic and it is 40+°C outside. Your gauge or sender could be crook, so it might be nothing. Well worth investigating though. You would most easily do that by hooking up something temporary. You could also put the factory sender into some near boiling water and see what it and the gauge say. The service manual should have info on what the sender resistance and voltage should be at various temperatures. (Read that to say that I'm not going to be bothered looking it up at this point). If it is popping and carrying on, the ignition timing could be retarded, which would also cause it to run hot. You'd expect the coolant to get hot too, but the problem with factory water temp gauges is that they have an enormous deadband in the centre. The real temp can vary wildly and the gauge won't move, to stop the feebleminded from panicing - OMG! It's getting too hot! it would be worth putting the car onto a dyno with a Consult hooked up and just looking at what timing it's running, water temp, etc etc. Could do that on the road with 2 people, but dyno makes it easier and safer plus you can put a timing light on it at the same time and see whether the CAS is set right.

Nonsense! Bandaids are the literal and figurative solution to every problem.

Sticky injectors that won't move until they've got a little heat into them is a possibility. But otherwise, I concur with Lith. You have some cause to be worried about your engine. The earlier advice ref pulling them out and having them cleaned properly is the only sensible choice you have here.

Ok i will definitely try that out when i take the head off to put in some valves, springs and retainers. Im a little confused on the usefulness of the head drain after reading through the oil control thread as people seem to lean more towards the inportance of the catch can working well and draining/breathing properly? The head drain does drain a little extra, but it's main action is to provide an increase in the cross sectional area of flow paths upwards through the engine. Crankcase gases that have more room to flow will flow more slowly, and pick up less oil, letting it drain to the sump. That's why all the other things mentioned in the oil control thread that you can and should do are just as likely to fix an oil carryover problem.

Well, goes to show how far wrong you can be when you come to conclusions without knowing anything. Ever tried to buy an 10x1.25 flanged nut? Ever compared such a thing against the MASSIVE flanges on the ones Nissan uses on suspension connections? I just happened to know that that particular nut on your wreck would provide exactly what I wanted for another task without having to try to find a vendor that actually stocks anything other than the tiny arse mini-flanged nuts that seem to be the only thing on the market. And yes, I can afford them. Something something something stopped breeding after 2 kids.

You right, me arse backwards.

It will be hella lean and way too advanced on 98 at any throttle above 15%.

They're VCT compatible. They're baby cams.

How would the rings not get bedded? It's easy to glaze the bores if you don't know what you're doing. You have to get an engine up and running very quickly, then have at least a rough enough tune in it to be able to run it at varying revs and load for the first XX minutes. If you let it sit and idle, like a lot of people have done, then you will glaze the bores and never get the rings to bed in. From there it is low comp and oil consumption to eternity. The fix back in the days of rebuilding red motors was a spoonful of Bon-Ami sprinkled down the carby. Ahh. The good old days.

Rings never got bedded is most likely reason.

You'd probably be hard pressed to see the difference between them even on a dyno. The Kelfords are ever so slightly better for the street, the Camtech possibly ever so slightly better for drag.

And one more follow up. I still had a lot of noise in the front LHS. This had previously only ever occurred when the old poly bushes were dry and when the rod ends in the GKTechs were buggered (as described above). I bought a bunch of new rod ends and changed them all out. Still noisy. So many rod ends on a single arm that it is hard to be 100% sure about where the noise is coming from, so I bit the bullet and bought a set of the UAS arms (the old centre pivot ones that they came up with >10 years ago), on a group buy advertised on here to get a batch made up. Still noisy. The noise must be coming from somewhere else in the LHS suspension. Could be the upright's upper bearing, as that is a likely candidate. But really it could also be in the rod end on the front of the caster rod, or in the lower control arm bush, ball joint, ARB link (which are sufficiently new that it shouldn't be them) or even somewhere unexpected like the crossmember attachment to the chassis. May have to do a little extra swappsies and maybe invest in some chassis ears. Anyway, the moral of the story is that I still think the GKTech arms are a good thing and they don't have as much trouble with generating clinking noises as I had thought they did. Subject to my greasing efforts, anyway.

Did you ever wonder why i wanted them?

You can point to point them from the terminals on the TPS to the terminals on the ECU with a multimeter. The pins are identified on that drawing (when looking at the plug) and you can see if it is wired correctly in about 5 minutes.

I can guarantee you that an ECU reset will not magically make the ECU able to deal with a bypass leaking air around the AFM. It just won't. The maths inside the ECU is basically this; Volts read at the AFM goes into x axis of lookup curve for the AFM used on the car. This gives a raw load value out to the ECU to carry on with. The ECU then takes that raw load number and the current rpm and works out the specific load value, which in Nissan ECU speak is called the TP value. The TP value is then used to directly lookup the fuel and ignition maps. The ECU really and truly thinks that the load is the TP value. If the AFM is reading low because you have created a leak around it, then the TP value will be low and the ECU will be looking at a column to the left of teh real engine operating point and you could very easily put in completely the wrong amount of fuel and the wrong timing and it could be lean and too advanced and ping itself to death. Not cool. Absolute fact. Cannot argue with it. The only thing that the ECU can do is to use the short and long term fuel trims (learnt from the O2 sensor) to counteract the fact that the mixtures will be wrong and make corrections to the mixtures. These corrections are not cell for cell across the whole maps either. They are at much lower resolution than the real maps, and so cannot give you correction that will be able to deal with map regions that end up lean AND map regions that end up rich. There is no fixing the timing problem. The ECU simply cannot do anything about it. And worse, the ECU cannot do anything to really even fix incorrect mixtures when it is running open loop, because it runs direct from the fuel map without much input from the STFT and LTFT. And when you're on high load open loop is when you're most likely to blow the engine up. The only way you can create a bypass around the AFM to extend the range of the AFM is to then retune the ECU maps to take the new reading into account.

Have you downloaded the R34 service manual, which has the wiring diagrams? You can get it from your uncle Torrence. I don't have them here on the work computer, so would have to wait until tonight. Fastest way is to answer your own question.

Given the (lack of) reliability of aftermarket/consumer RFID bullshit, I'd be highly unlikely to consider it on a car. Have the thing simply stop on you while you drive (assuming it is in the ignition as well as the starter circuit)? No thanks. A conventional immobiliser with radio remote would/should be sufficient. Basically all your asking for is a conventional immobiliser with the trigger simply being RFID anyway. You'd definitely be better off buying a real immobilise and stitching your RFID receiver onto it (in place of the usual radio remote) than trying to build the immobiliser yourself anyway.

Compression rings and oil control rings are 2 separate parts. Possible to have rooted oil control rings while still having reasonable compression. And.....165 psi is f**king high, not normal, indicating either, wet cylinder walls or a compression gauge that can't be trusted.

Isn't this the 2nd such thread?

It's gunna take 3 or 4 hours. How much depends on the hourly rate tho'.