GTSBoy

Big fat white wires - definitely alternator.

Yeah well.....sorta. But we're at opposite ends of the same problem here. If the gap is too close you don't get as much energy out of the spark. And there's also a need for the gap to be large enough to actually expose enough mixture to the spark. That's why big gaps are great, when you have the power to drive them, because you get a big spark that sees lots of mixture. The other end of the problem is where the gap is too large for the ignition system energy available to jump through the dense mixture of a high boost engine. And you get no spark at all. Either way, you get a misfire. I would agree that 0.5mm is not waaaaaay too small. But it is getting so small that it is clearly not the right thing to do.

Or MCA, from Australia, per previous recommendations. Similar spring rates and top notch dampers.

And you might need some shock loading on the spanner you're trying to turn with a hammer. Don't belt it. Just tap it while also leaning on it.

It's got nothing to do with HICAS. My R32 makes a similar noise when I turn the wheel ~90° - but without the pulsing that yours is doing. More just a sustained scraping noise. My noise sounds like it is originating in the column itself. Mine is definitely not in the wheel wells. I don't know what it is, and I don't know how to go about diagnosing it. If R32s had a vacuum assisted power steering (to invent something that doesn't really exist) I'd almost think that there was a leaky seal that opens up at a certain rotation position and cornering force. It's weird, but I don't worry about it. Been there for 10+ years on my car.

How low was your bloody pedal!?

Known working - not at stock boost. At whatever power level you are running the engine at. the more boost, the harder the coils have to work.

Going to be the first time that anyone has bought a wreck just to get all the fasteners!

You need more powerful coils.

They look like they've been treated pretty badly. A 200lb gorilla could have leaned on the wrenches to tighten that bottom ring. The threads could be compressed underneath, etc etc. You should probably take them off the car so you can work out them without the knuckle damaging confinement. A vice &/or two other people to anchor them might make it 10x easier to work out.

Take it to an auto electrician.

If it differs from the R34 one I'd be somewhat surprised.

I would doubt that they are rock hard. That sounds neither like Nismo nor Bilstein.

Is that because of large duration? Because otherwise they're not mutually exclusive, and VCT is worth a LOT of cam.

I said get the GTR manual

Correct assumption.

Squishy bushes are comfortable by sloppy. Poly bushes add a certain amount of NVH. Most Nissans older than yours have at least poly, if not alloy bushes all through the back end by now.

Download the R32 GTR service manual and look for the GTS4 auto wiring in the wiring diagrams (will be the same as what you have). Look for the shift interlock and start tracking it down from there. There is a manual release on these things, I think. Don't remember where it is though. Time and excuse enough for a manual conversion if you ask me!

You can spend the hours on the rods instead of Rand. Back in the bad old days, I spent many hours polishing ALFA rods and other things that it wasn't worth spending cubic $$ on new billet stuff for. And in those days, pre-Chinese manufacturing, anything aftermarket cost waaay too much anyway.

It'll be the same as Maxima or Pathfinder or something equally shitful.

Given that Whiteline have a poly bush kit (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Whiteline-Rear-Diff-Mount-Front-Bush-For-Nissan-Skyline-V35-V36-Stagea-M35/192741676619?fits=Model%3ASkyline&epid=1847214044&hash=item2ce04c964b:g:MS0AAOSwOI5dVAQV&frcectupt=true) available, I'd be sure that all the other usual suspects would too. Thus there should be no doubt that you can just flick the old Nissan elastogoosh bush and replace with something else.

f**king Stageas.

Why are you laughing. The clutch switch and the neutral switch are used by (manual) ECUs to help inform them of what you are doing. This is particularly the case where you are rolling along with a non-zero speed in either neutral or in gear with the clutch depressed. The ECU will keep the idle speed higher, to make it easier to clutch out and get moving again. Lack of these inputs tends to be a significant contributor to the idle-drop-and-stall that often happens on half arsed conversions. Both these are hooked up on my auto-man converted R32. Was true using the original RB20 (auto) ECU and is also true using the RB25Neo (auto) ECU that is in it now. I can see the signals for them come on in Nistune.

You should wired up everything that should have been wired up to a manual. Neutral switch, clutch switch. Make sure the IACV is working, etc etc.

Obvs the switch.