GTSBoy

Compression rings and oil control rings are 2 separate parts. Possible to have rooted oil control rings while still having reasonable compression. And.....165 psi is f**king high, not normal, indicating either, wet cylinder walls or a compression gauge that can't be trusted.

Isn't this the 2nd such thread?

It's gunna take 3 or 4 hours. How much depends on the hourly rate tho'.

Yeah, that's why I didn't use a thread necro meme.

Yuh, made from pure chinesium. Using MBQ to make people associate to MB Quart. Might be good, or might be crap. Underseat subwoofers are not exactly hi-fi anyway, so it probably doesn't matter.

Its called the Front Upper Control Arm Bush, Outer. There are a bazzzzzillllion of them in a gajillion different materials on eBay for R33s and 34s (same dog as yours).

Fairly obviously, the thing you want is the hub from a turbo R33...because that's what had 5 studs.

Return it and get something that will work, or see about getting an interface converter that will give you fibre on one side and what the headunit has on the other.

MB Quart? Only one of the larger car audio names.

You need to put them in a museum, stat.

What's the closest spinamathing to the end of the pod filter?

Well, that's not true. If you look at them, and they are yellow, at least 2 of them will be no good.

fair enuff.

Why would you want fixed (non twisty) FUCAs when the world now agrees that flexible upper arms are a bloody good idea? ie, UAS, GKTech.

Don't go over 10 psi on an R33 if you don't want the ECU to chuck and emo fit and throw all your petrol into it on every engine cycle. The mixtures are stupid rich on RB25 ECUs when the boost is up, and they also have a habit of giving you the lovely gift of R&R (Rich & Retard) as a built in engine protection feature. The ECU is a much bigger limit to boost happiness on an R33 than the ceramic turbine is.

Yuh, and the wire goes aaaaaall the way back to the ECU, where there is another big plug full of termination pins. These have been known to be pushed back out of the plug by clumsy enough handling.

If it is not the AFM, because 2 AFMs run the same, but plugging it in makes it run shit, then clearly it is the wiring/plug.

The oil cooler/heat exchanger at the oil filter mount can break too.

Nope. Adelaide, yes. Knight Engines. Butt not Melbs.

Plastic compressor wheel is very quiet.

Other way around. Stock is 1.1mm, gapped down means smaller, ie 0.8mm. Gapping them down can (and will) help if the coils just aren't good enough to run against the boost....but these days any misfire should be taken as a reason to upgrade the coils. Yaris, Audi, R35 GTR, etc are all options these days.

That's all repairable. It won't be cheap, but it could be fixed.

Needs better coils.

No, E85 makes condensation. Because of the much higher hydrogen:carbon ratio of ethanol compared to 7-9 chain length hydrocarbons, it simply make a higher % of water vapour in the exhaust gases and therefore you get more of that condensing in the oil. Oil/sump temperature will be about the same regardless of 98/E85 fuel in use. It's the upper end of the engine that runs cooler. The bearings still make a lot of the heat that turns up in the oil, probably more on E85 if it's got more timing/boost/power. But the water is continuously being made. It should be safe to return it all to the sump, because the water should boil off again, but by the same token, if there's enough in there it will sink to the bottom of the sump, get priority pickup by the oil pump and f**k the bearings in short order. So, a large catch can and a very decent breather system that can pull off water vapour before it condenses and send it to be burnt are probably the wisest idea.

I endorse this product and those who use it.