GTSBoy

I have vague memories of people needing to use Ferrea's retainers etc. Shouldn't need springs though.

I would think that either of the R32 RB20 cams should go in. The different lift should be taken up by the hydraulic lifter. But, now that I think about that, you'd really want to ask an engine guy if that's true.

The active diff is worth precisely nothing. The problem with the 3x2 diffs/axles is that the CVs in them are tripod style, not proper CVs like the 5 bolters. They are not quite as good. Still reasonably strong. I have them in my R32 (because I'm using an S15 helical centre in my R32 housing with an R34 4.11 CW&P gearset) but I wouldn't try it with lots more power than I have (only ~200rwkW). The reason to use R33 turbo diff is that the NA diffs are the same 3x2 stuff as the S chassis diffs. And they are open (not LSD, not that it really matters if you are going to replace the centre anyway - but keep in mind that the open diffs have equal length splines on teh stub axles, so you can't use the exact same aftermarket centre in them in many cases).

I guess the ALSD must be wider to make some space for the crap they have to put into the sides for the clutches. I'm surprised by the length difference. This is yet another reason why "all R200s are not the same as all other R200s". Your best bet would be to obtain another R33 diff. Just a regular VLSD out of any turbo, auto or manual. That housing will give you want you need + the required stub axles. Then you just buy your mech LSD centre to suit. If you buy Nismo, it will come with new stub axles (equal length, to replace the unequal length ones that live inside VLSDs), but if you buy KAAZ, or Cusco etc, I think they reuse the unequal length stubs. The 5 bolt driveshafts you show look the same as any other R chassis shaft, so they should fit to any 5 bolt stub. I would not assume that the CW&P on the active diff is the same as the others. There are a few ways that Nissan have done that differently - mainly thickness of the mounting flange and bolt diameter. This won't matter if you don't try to use that active diff for anything. If you get another R33 diff you should be able to move the 3.7 gears across. You could dismantle these though and work out what is what for yourself. Worthwhile exercise IMO.

It's not a GTR diff. GTRs have 6 bolt axle flanges. Not the 3x2 = 6 bolt flanges like your S chassis diff. 6 evenly spaced bolts, on "ears" like the 5 bolter pictures. GTRs also have a CV joint type input flange, not a flange to pick up a uni-joint. Follow the wiring loom in the car body that would plug into that connector on the top of the diff. Find out where it goes to. If it goes to a CU up in the boot somewhere, then the car looks like it had an active diff. I've not paid any attention to active diff R33s, because they have AIDS. But for all I know, they might have different flanges. Show a photo of the matching end of a driveshaft so we can see if it looks normal.

Nope. Leak must be pretty small though to be able to be compensated by timing (assuming that's what's happening).

Normal 5 bolt R200 stubs are 5 bolt with spacing much like what your picture shows.....but your flanges look too round. Just look at the flanges on this lot to see what I mean https://www.google.com.au/search?q=r33+diff&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiRgMnZ2d3jAhVFWysKHWHVBicQ_AUIESgB&biw=1519&bih=819

Nismo are barely stiffer than originals. Buy originals or Nismo - whatever you can get your hands on. You car is a HICAS car, therefore buy the mounts to suit a HICAS car. Doesn't matter if it was there and is now deleted. The removal of teh HICAS won't change which engine mounts it has.

Always call a Jack a Jack. Always call a spade a spade. But always call a whore a lady, because their lives are hard enough as it is.

That would be A-LSD, not V. But yes. Notwithstanding that....the side flanges are odd. Did the active diff cars have different axles in some way?

This wasn't a question. It was a statement. A bold statement.

Um.....I wouldn't count on it. That diff on the left is a weird looking thing. It has a pipe across the top like a V-spec diff, and it does not have normal 5 bolt axle flanges. I'm not even sure that it is therefore the actual diff from an R33. What is the wiring connector on the top above the RHS axle flange? On the crossover pipe. Is it some sort of Z chassis diff? An R230? Might explain the apparent larger size. If it is an R230, then the CW&P will not just swap over. Otherwise, what Duncan said is true of R33 and S14/5 diffs.

Haha. I even read it as if you'd written it correctly!

Could still be R32 originally, but it's not as if it matters.

It should hold at around 1100 rpm under those circumstances, so it is doing mostly the right thing, just a bit too high. I would suggest that you have an air leak somewhere and the idle is simply too high and the ECU is dropping timing (at proper, stationary idle) to get the revs down - but it can't/won't do that with a non-zero speed signal. You could put it on the dyno and put a Consult unit or other scan tool on the ECU and see what the timing is in the ECU while it coasts down, then at a stationary idle. I wouldn't be surprised if it was 0-5° stationary.

No, not the cam cover. The coil cover. The badge on the coil cover says "hotwires" It is shaped to go with the V-Cam doodat, but that may just be coincidence, because the oil cap would need the extra clearance too. It appears to be a hi-rise coil cover with a little ram air vent (that wouldn't actually do f**k all!). viz https://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/416177-hotwire-rb26dett-ignition-system-coilpack-cover.html

You can lead a whore to culture, but you can't make her think.

Yeah, I wasn't even going to go there!

Wires direct from head unit to the speakers? Couldn't be that easy.

Hmmm. Hydrophilic. Hydraulic. They were just red top NICS RB20s.

On the subject of the gearbox. 33 & 34 25 boxes are essentially the same thing but the pull clutch on the 34 box is more annoying (less choices) than the push. If you have the choice of a good 33 box, probably the wisest choice. Mind you, if starting from scratch and having to buy - the argument for a brand new box is strong.

Always easier to use the correct loom to suit the engine and the correct type of ECU (ie, RB26 both) and make the changes to the engine loom where it interfaces with the car, than it is to bastardise a loom and use the wrong sort of ECU, etc etc. You can do it any which way. But some don't make as much sense. The weird solutions usually come about because somebody already has X and is too tight or too lazy to do it properly.

Great. and have you remembered that we have all told you that it is very unlikely that a Neo turbo auto ECU will drive your auto? Because the auto is wired up to your old TCU and the new TCU is in the ECU and there shouldn't be any magic that would make one think it is the other? Aaaaaand - given that you heard about the secret squirrel trick on these forums referring to other posts on these forums.....why don't you keep searching until you find it yourself?

This is an Impul ECU for a manual turbo car? Are you going to be happy driving around in 3rd gear only?

I have an R32, so I have an R32 AC control unit, which we can see from the wiring diagrams above does things a little differently to the R33 one. I have an R34 ECU, so the pins are all different to both of the above. And, getting the AC to work after the engine transplant was a major exercise. We had to do some things with relays and other tricks with the pressure switch. So my car is not able to serve as an example that I can measure stuff off for you. Further to that, You should put a multi-meter onto the terminals in question and determine if they have 12V or ground on them, before trying to put any 12v or ground of your own onto them. If you put raw 12v onto a terminal which is continuous to ground, you are making a high current short circuit and can fry shit. Similarly, if you simply ground a pin with 12V on it, you can be making a short that will burn shit up. You can also use a test light to see what's what on those terminals. Close examination of the wiring diagrams can also inform you of which way the ECU terminals are most likely to work. They USUALLY act as the earth end of a switching circuit. But some do not (like some of the fuel pump outputs.)