GTSBoy

Well the obvious solution for that sort of power level is a G30-660 or similar (assuming you're talking engine HP and not some bullshit wheel HP, otherwise you'd probably be looking at a -770). Then you just need fuel pump, injectors, management, consideration of oil system upgrade and engine breathing control, clutch, diff, and brake upgrades, big intercooler, money put aside for breakages to all of the driveline components, and so on. You don't need the plenum change - it will hurt street performance. (Yes, it will make more power, and yes it looks "better", for a given definition of "better", but that's no reason to change things IMO). It will cost you torque at the bottom end. This is a standard weekend build here in Oz, for one of these. The secret sauce is in fitting enough engine protection sensors and setting the ECU up to use them so that you don't trash the engine the second something goes wrong. Oil pressure, oil temperature, coolant pressure, EGT, are all good things for that.

Surely the ECCs relay is still involved in getting the Haltech fired up. Don't just probe wires and wonder. Actually inspect the wiring - where it goes, where it came from, and try to work out what the installer has done. That's assuming you bought it like this and don't have the original installer available. Otherwise, ask them.

If it's an R34 it's definitely a Neo. If it's an R33 (were there any '98 33s?) then it's definitely an S2. There is no chance that it is an S1. Don't do anti-lag. These things are getting to be as rare as hen's teeth. The days of being able to grenade a motor and just pick up another from the wrecker for $1000 are so far gone here in Australia that every wanker that ever did it is regretting doing it now.

Or just throw it in the bin before it causes a problem.

Yeah, but that's usually just too much spring and/or damper stiffness, because they think that billy cart = handling. If you get rid of all the flex in the bushings, you can actually back off on the spring and damper stiffness. Something to be desired. Here's something that I know a lot about - because R32s have a lot of anti-squat built in and it sucks. This is something that you can fix with geometry, and if I have just cause to have my rear subframe out again I will certainly be doing so, by lowering the front mounts for the lower arms. But this will lead me to have to fit spherical bushings to the lower arms (or just go GKTech arms) and then my journey to the spherical darkside will be almost complete. Anyway, you're lucky, having an R34 rear end with less anti-squat built in. It wouldn't matter if I put really tall tyres onto the car (like it used to have stock on the 16s, for example) because the extra compressibility of the tyre in no way compensates for the fact that the suspension geometry itself is stupid. It's more of the same here really. Your modern retard wants 20" wheels with 3 or 4 condoms wrapped around them, because it looks hot. To select a tyre for its stiffness properties in this context would really more come down to the choice between, say, an 18 and a 17 in a higher profile, rather than picking and choosing between individual tyres available in the same size. Although, obviously you could and would be able to choose a Pirelli over a Hankook, or vice versa, or anything else, if you had some reliable information on sidewall stiffness and other structural traits, if you really really felt motivated to. Again, here, getting rid of the slop in the bushings and mounts would allow you to choose a smaller wheel and taller tyre, which is arguably the better choice for the road when it comes to potholes and shit left lying around anyway, even if it doesn't look as good or allow quite the same brake rotor size. But we're talking street cars here anyway. So I'm not looking to be able to fit 365mm rotors anyway. I have rubber subframe bushes also.... and I would be tempted to go firmer on the diff bushes if it wasn't for the fact that my expensively rebuilt diff clunks worse than a 2-way and it would surely drive me batty. (R32s don't really have diff bushes!! Yay for us). I think poly subframe bushes are probably not a good idea in these cars. Poly seems to not be the most suitable material and it seems to shit itself. I suspect harder rubber is still the best bet and some sort of pineapples/collars added probably all that is justifiable on the street.

Nah Greg. Race cars have solid arm bushings and solid subframe bushings and solid diff bushings (and proper racecars have no bushings at all anywhere, just sphericals in the arms). And they do not have less traction. The removal of all squirm in flexible mounts everywhere else allows the movement to be constrained to just one place, being the tyre carcass. Then that can be optimised to provide the amount of movement allowed/required/desirable, instead of having it turn up in 7 different places to different degrees depending on which direct the load is applied from, etc etc. And wheel control then becomes totally the responsibility of the spring and damper, not shared between them and anything else rubber in the suspension. It's all good, no bad, unless you have a problem with NVH. And maintenance, I suppose. In C's case it's quite possibly less about the bushings in the arms than it is about diff bushings and subframe bushings, allowing heavy masses to flail about under the car. But I don't know what they look like on those cars, so won't comment. Also I can't remember what he's already dealt with and can't be arsed reading back through the thread! I'm just happy to watch him throw money at a bloody BMW to show JohnnyDoseDerp that the Euro shitboxen are just as bad as our Jap shitboxen.

budoom tish

Stiffer bushes don't change the ride, which is controlled by spring and damper. It does transmit more noise and sometimes makes sharp suspension inputs more noticeable (and therefore feel harder) mostly because of the noise.

Yuh. R32 RB20s do not have an injector resistor pack. That is for RB26s, which use low impedance injectors. And there are 6x resistors in it, because there are 6x injectors. A single resistor can't handle 6x injectors.

Yes. Yes. On an R32, for example, the nipple is actually connected onto the compressor housing. Right on the front. There is probably a pad on the front of yours that could have been drilled and tapped, but likely wasn't, because they stopped putting it there, for some reason. If there's a fitting on that elbow, then yes. Can't see it because the photo is tiny and the arrow is in the way. But yes.

The only good spot is the hot pipe.

Yes, but at the same time, no.

Pffft! I'm gradually losing the fight against spherical joints in my suspension and I am never upset by any increase in NVH or stiffness that comes along with each new install.

Swap the front half casing from the old R33 gearbag onto the R34 box and use a push clutch. You'd be mad to persist with pull clutch. In desperation, there are push to pull conversions available, or you could even go concentric.

Do it properly. Add a nipple to the hot pipe.

Don't clean the O2 sensor. It doesn't need it/can't benefit from it/has a fragile ceramic part.

"Clean" as in "low enough counts of coliform bacteria and other gut twisting nasties that you can drink it without fear of shitting your insides out afterwards. Not necessarily "clean" as in "freshly melted off a virgin glacier that last saw open atmosphere sometime before the mammoths went extinct". Adelaide has some of the "cleanest" water in Australia. By this I mean that our water traditionally made it to our reservoirs by trickling across cow paddocks and so the old engineers at the E&WS had to learn how to clean it good to make it safe to drink. Doesn't mean that it wasn't nasty tasting, hard as rocks and chock to the brim with chlorine. By contrast, Sydney had it so good with water that original fell on pristine mountainsides that their water supply engineers never learnt how to scrub water properly and so for years and years there were Giardia outbreaks and the like, that only stopped when some E&WS engineers went across and taught them how to do it. In some places, like Bunbury in SW WA, the water falls from the sky nearly every day, but still somehow manages to taste like it was filtered through some rusty steel wool. Safe to drink though - just nasty tasting.

So there it is. It's probably a 470 kOhm resistor. 470k being a typically available size that is close enough to the ~500K resistance offered by the knock sensor. That stops the ECU from thinking that the knock sensor is absent, but doesn't otherwise do anything.

That little thing is a resistor. What you say about it being involved in pins 16 & 17 is hard to reconcile with reality, as pin 16 is connected to the ECCS relay (which is the main relay that starts up and runs the ECU) and pin 17 does nothing. If I were going to put a resistor anywhere on an ECU connector, it would be to fix a water temperature (which would be both a very bad idea, and be pin 28) or across the knock sensor (with a 500kohm resistor) to fake it out if it has been removed (also a bad idea, and would be on pin 23 or 24). But those mods would be on the ECU side of the connector. Doing it in the loom side is tres weird. Would you care to please show a photo and sketch of the damage?

Well.....it's an NA. So there is no point in spending a single dollar on trying to make it go faster, because it won't. You can make it louder, and that's about it. Don't buy another AFM for it yet. The one you have might be a piece of shit, or it might be OK. Put that to one side for the moment. See if you can locate someone with a known good genuine one that you can test run. The CEL issue could still be cat related, particularly the overtemp sensor problem I called out earlier that no-one seems to have noticed. I would look into that first. You should also consider the O2 sensor as a likely candidate for running rich. Ideally you'd take it to a mechanic who has a good scan tool and you'll be able to watch the AFM voltage and the O2 sensor voltage as it is driven and see if they make sense.

I dunno. The hex on the valve will be something large, like a 22mm. If you don't have the right spanner to put on it, you can always put a 10" shifter on it, then measure the opening of the jaws (if you want to buy a spanner) or use some vernier calipers to measure it. And yes, there's no need to worry until you have the new one, and you can measure that.

Haha. I'd forgotten it was NA. Just put an LS into it.

If by this you mean the stiffening rib in the floopan, then probably yes. There would be no way that it would be attached to the actual subframe. That would be silly.

Neo has a combined IACV and AAC on the back end of the plenum. Coolant heated (it's got a bleed point on it). No electrical heat. Works very nicely when it is clean.

The other option is to go the Nistune route. Buy R35 AFM and adapter tube (for <<$700). Spend >>$700 on Nistune install. Switch from stock AFM to R35 in the software, boost off into the sunset. Not necessarily better than the full ECU router (in fact definitely not cheaper than the full ECU route) but definitely going to be cheaper to get from "What the f**k is wrong" to "It's working now".