GTSBoy

No, you didn't listen to what I said. RB20s are not RB25s. The RB25 uses the analog output of its TPS (That's the potentiometer) for setting the idle point. And the correct voltage setting for that is ~0.45v. The RB20 DOES NOT use the potentiometer of the TPS for any function. The pot is only for the transmission computer. The RB20 uses the TPS's switch. A digital switch. On, off. There is no 0.45 volts associated with that. It is a simple click decision. If you look closely at the TPS you will note that there are two connectors. One for the ECU and one for the TCU. In a manual car, the TCU one is not even really connected to anything. As to whether there is a wiring problem with your IACV....there could be, but that is impossible to internet diagnose. Dirty/seized up is always far more likely than a wiring problem unless someone clumsy has been buggering around with it.

RB20s do not use the analog output from the TPS for the ECU. They really only use the closed position switch for the idle position. The potentiometer on them is for the TCU. The idle switch should be set so that it changes state just as you start moving the throttle away from closed. If you bend over the idling engine and you manually move the throttle bellcrank, at the very very first movement of it, the ECU should double pulse the injectors. If you hear that at that point in the rotation, it is set correctly. The trick is to set it too high, so you can tell that it is doing it, then adjust it down from there. You MUST have the IACV working, otherwise it will stall coming to a halt. Take it off, dismantle it and clean it with solvent.

More compression is better than less compression. It is not 1986 any more. 10:1 is not too much to aim for, with modern fuels. It would be wrong to assume that the NA Neo piston is as good as the turbo one. It might be, but it might not. The 25DET Neo also has RB26 rods in it, which the NA certainly won't. I wouldn't be doing any mix'n'match without getting suitable custom pistons. ~9.5:1 would be ideal.

I don't think they (R33/4 IACVs) swap. Mine (Neo one) had to be thoroughly cleaned recently because, for years, it had occasionally done weird shit like hold the idle at 1500 or so rpm in traffic, or blip the idle like a race car. It got really bad, to the point where I couldn't put up with it any more. It was all because the IACV was dirty enough to get stuck sometimes but not all the time and the ECU didn't have control over the IACV when it was playing up/sticky, but had control most of the time.

Do you have an air valve at the AC compressor? On some cars they provide an idle up when the compressor comes on. Could be the sort of thing that might cause such symptoms. I don't think that Neo AC compressors are supposed to have that valve though. If I had to guess, I would suggest that your IACV is filthy and needs a complete disassemble and clean with solvent.

Lightweight. Blue. Smurf fluids.

SK kinda does and kinda doesn't do his kits any more. Well, actually, my information is about 5 years old, because I got him to do me a set of B6s in ~May 2014. At that time he was only doing it as a nicety for SAU people. I don't know if he's still doing it now. The SK deal was for him to get a set of B6s and revalve them to suit the springs that he recommended to go with them. Kings are not those springs, but they are as close as you can reasonably get. He also machines a couple of extra circlip grooves into the bodies of the dampers to provide further height adjustability, over and above the couple of grooves that Bilstein put on them stock. The circlip grooves set the height of the lower spring perch. Yes, if you get Kings low and the B6s, you will be able to set them to the right height. You will probably have to lift the bottom perches up a notch after the springs settle in. SK's revalved B6s are great. There is something really nice about the way that these dampers ride. I replaced a pair of stock B6s (at the front) which were still in great condition and a pair of KYBs at the rear (which were f**ked) and the improvement was really noticeable. Both ends of the car got much better. At the time I did mine, most coilover choices (BCs etc) were hard riding nasty shitball things and the SK dampers were a very viable choice, especially for a road car. These days, it is probably true that MCA's dampers are able to be set up to be even better, and for not much more money. I suspect that if I were doing it now, I would probably spend a couple of grand on MCAs, and live with the fact that they are defectable (because height adjustable). You can do further searching on this topic on this forum because I have written many words on it in the past. As I mention above though, my opinion on the coilover option has probably shifted a bit since then.

Oh come on! It is dead simple to troubleshoot this stuff if you are physically present with the car. Is the ignition signal present at the output terminal on the ECU? (And as a sub point.....do you know the difference between ECU outputs that output 12V and ECU outputs that supply an earth? And as a further subpoint, do the auto-eleccies that have looked at it know the difference?) (And, as a further subpoint, is the Haltech configurable to be either or both on the ignition outputs and is it set to be the wrong sort?) Is the main power feed present at the igniter? If you manually provide a trigger into the input side of the igniter, can you get an output signal on the igniter, and then, by extension, at the coil? If all those things check out....then you start to panic.

Not sure what your point is. Surely there's no difference. And yes, the subframe is enough to define it as a GTS4, because that subframe means it is NOT a GTSt and the different body (no wide rear guards) means it is not a GTR. Ergo, it is a GTS4*. *Assuming it has the AWD subframe. The instrument cluster has no meaning, because that is trivial to move from car to car. The front diff is essentially tied to the presence of the subframe, because I'm pretty sure that you can't put an AWD sumped & diffed engine into a RWD engine bay. The normal RWD front subframe won't allow the engine to sit down where it is supposed to.

You don't need any glycol, etc. You only need corrosion inhibitors (which glycol is certainly NOT). You can buy corrosion inhibitors separately.

Can buy from Just Jap, etc.

Register it is what it is, which is a GTS4. Some points; The transfer case is actually in/on the gearbox. So if it is there, then you have the original gearbox in place. If the box is really an RB20 RWD box, then you do not have the transfer case. The thing that would be most likely to be there and is very hard to get rid of, is the front diff, because it is in the sump of the engine! The front end is completely different between RWD and 4WD R32s. The subframe is different, the uprights are different. You will only have to compare what is in your with what is in GTRs and GTSts to see whether yours was truly a GTS4 originally. Which it probably was, because.... The transfer case probably failed on your car and because GTS4s are the poor man's GTR, the poor man who owned it was probably unable to scrape together enough shekels to fix it and resorted to RWDing it. You don't have to worry about your insurance company. Work out what the car is, register it as that. Tell the insurance company what it is, and also tell them what has been changed (assuming it is a crippled GTS4). That's all you have to do.

This is the wrong approach. Take it to an auto electrician. We can't magically see what is wrong from here.

Holy 14 year thread dig batman.

Yes, but not road legal. I think the only Sparco seat that is ADR'd is the R100. Also, fixed back seats are not road legal in a coupe unless you remove the back seats & belts and get the car declared as a 2 seater.

I gave you the advice you needed. Watch the howto videos. Make sure you watch videos for the same series of hose & fittings that you are using. Use the correct tools. If you don't, you are making a failure.

Also completely unnecessary. They are a handbrake shoe. They don't wear out.

Buying cats "that fit" is not the only way to do it. The only way I have ever done it is to buy the cat I want, without flanges, then weld the flanges to suit the car.

Yes, but

And Slap, RB20s have an actual TP switch, not just a sensor. Idle is a binary input to the ECU. You can prove it to yourself. When it is idling, as you open the throttle (by hand, with your head above the engine), very slowly, you will hear the ECU double pulse the injectors just once. That's the ECU seeing the idle position switch input disappear, and is actually a good way to adjust the idle position switch on an RB20. The RB25s rely on the analogue from the TPS.

I will now quote myself. And thus, yes it is idling. It is not running on the main maps. And the original argument was whether the ECU added 15° to a static 15° for a total advance of 30°BTDC, which is not the same thing as the ECU using delta control to manipulate the idle speed.

You would be well advised to find a US importer of Jap stuff, or contact the buyers' agent type guys who live in Japan and source stuff to send back to peeps in foreign locations. Most of us are in Oz, and getting an RB to Hawaii from here would be more painful than direct from Japan. Japan also being closer to the source, must be a good thing.

Gents, When Slap is asking about closed loop, he's talking about closed loop fuelling. I suspect when Johnny Dose is talking about closed loop (in above posts) he's talking about closed loop idle speed control. So, talking at cross purposes. As has been posted before; At idle (ie, TPS closed, ~0.45v) the ECU is definitely in closed loop idle speed control. At idle, provided the O2 sensor is warm enough, the ECU will be in closed loop mixture control. But this often fails and the ECU will just revert to the idle fuelling map. At idle, the ECU does not change timing based on O2 feedback. At idle, the ECU adds AND subtracts timing from the base 15° according to its needs for idle speed control, but is aiming to run 15° and control speed with IACV wherever possible.

In that case, go your hardest.