GTSBoy

Being LEDs, there's every chance that they suck at making light go on the road. They would also be a lot nicer with less shiny bling inside them. They would also draw the cops' attention (here in Oz) in seconds and earn you a defect. If it wasn't for all those things, I'd probably give 'em a try.

It's not too hard. The throttle is in the obvious place. The TPS is on one end of the throttle shaft and the plug is attached to that. You'll soon know if you've got the right one. Yes, but it is essential that the IACV is clean and working too. If you were to wind the idle down to 650 with the IACV stuck somewhere away from bottomed out, and the weather changed a lot, the idle speed could drop a long way. Or vice versa.

Having come from an S13, your Type 2 board is currently setup to run a CA18 or SR20 (or, given that you say 240SX, the truck motor that was in that). It won't run an RB25 without having the correct programming dumped onto it. Not just the maps, the entire ECU program (from an RB20, ideally, or even the RB26, conceivably). There is no reason to use emulators &/or burners when you actually have Nistune......

Yeah, I wouldn't be looking for anything more sinister unless the new #3 plug fails.

I don't know....it may just be me.....but this almost sounded like you were from Utah, or the Appalachians, or perhaps one of the cults. But welcome anyway!

Please don't tell me that there is a RogerSkyline. I couldn't take it.

High boost doesn't kill coils. It just exposes a soft coil's lack of ability to supply enough energy. Plugs don't die from dying coils. They may foul, but they don't die. The plug doesn't care if you're not feeding it enough energy to make a spark jump the gap.

I think it's not super easy to use the RB26 ECU on a 20/25. Whilst the 20 and 26 ECU are super similar, the fact that the 26 expects to see 2x AFMs and 2x O2 sensors and shit like that makes extra challenges that you don't need. The effort required to use it would be better spent elsewhere. Definitely worth checking the Nistune forum (or hopefully Dose knows off the top of his head) what the state of play is with that. I'm assuming the RB25 is running the original 25 ECU? So you can't use the Nistune board in that. You'd need an RB20 ECU to go forward, and as Dose said, you'd still be better off buying a new Nistune board, with the right program in it. Using the S13 one would require it to be redone anyway. You will probably find it easiest and best (although not necessarily the cheapest) to use a Haltech or other similar plug-in ECU rather than having to mess about with all sorts of additional needs to get Nistune working.

Now, or in the future?

Yup.

:thumbsup:

You don't need any pressure at all. Any pressure washer will do more than enough. You only want to wet the car prior to bucket&glove wash, then gently rinse it off. High pressure concrete cutter type washes are for boats and bro-dozers, not nice cars.

M10 or M12? You have posted both. And with both thread pitches too.

Cannot comment on Pathfinder pump. But realistically, so long as the pump places the pulley in the right spot, just about any pump will do. HICAS "delete" does not imply that the HICAS warning light will not illuminate. If you do it wrongly, you will get the code. The HICAS CU is responsible for providing your variable rate power steering. Therefore, to retain this, you must retain the CU. If you remove the remainder of the HICAS system (actuators, sensors, etc) then it will chuck the shits and throw up the warning light. The solution to this problem is to leave the larger of the two connectors attached to the back of the HICAS CU and disconnect the smaller of the two. The important parts of the HICAS will still do their job, but no dash light. Or, you just remove the bulb from behind the dash. The plug is easier. Yes, you can drive without power steering. It is much much harder work, especially at parking speeds, but it actually feels nice on the move. Assuming that the Pathfinder pump is incorrect in some way, you should obtain an early RB25 PS pump as an easier approach to making sure that the pump will line up with the other pulleys on the engine. Or, you can just put an original R32 PS pump back on it and use the rear stage of the pump to run a separate PS cooling loop.

This

Buy a good reusable head gasket. Don't try to reuse the original one.

If your wiring is as you say, pin 86 is connected to the old pump wire from the original relay....ie, the wire that used to originally actually power the pump, then, when the ECU activates that original relay, that will then power your relay. It's arse backwards (a bit) and double the chance of a failed relay stopping you by the side of the road, but it will work. As to your wiring between pin 30 and 87, you have that backwards. But it will still work. These are just the 2 terminals that are either side of the switched contact. It's just that we conventionally put 12v INTO pin 30 and have it come out 87. It's just a convention when wiring relays.

Um, I have 2 kids and it probably costs me $150 to feed them if we're buying food at an "event". 10 buckets of chips is already $80! Can we get some advice on how to feed 10 kids for only $150? Sounds like a good theme for a thread. /gangbang

There have been a couple of threads lately where this has been discussed. This link is to a post of mine showing the R34 fuel pump circuit (which, if not the same as R32, is going to be same enough with respect to where the power comes from and how the OEM fuel pump relay is triggered by the ECU). https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/476054-r34-gt-na-fuel-pump-wiring/?do=findComment&comment=7898530 The short version is that the ECU provides the earth for the relay to switch the pump on. Not the power. The earth. Look to the left of the red box on my post. The fuel pump is the first thing to the left, then the relay is the next thing to the left. If you look at the coil on the relay, pins 1 & 2, you will see that pin 1 is connected to the ECU pin 13 (remember, this is R34, I haven't checked if the ECU pin # is the same on R32, not that it matters for this discussion). Pin2, the other side of the coil, comes from the 15A fused power supply for the whole pump. That makes the ECU side of the relay's coil the earth side. ECUs almost always provide a switched earth, rather than a switched power supply. So, for your own new relay installation, you need to power the coil from a fused supply and the switched wire from the ECU is actually the earth. This is what you have now done by connecting pin 86 to the ECU's pump control terminal. That circuit in the black backgrounded image above would have an earth on both sides of the relay's coil** and shouldn't do anything. The only way that circuit can work is if you use the original pump power wire (switched by the original relay) to power the coil to switch your new relay on. ** and this is why you were blowing fuses - because you were connecting the power supply direct to earth.

Maybe you should run it back and forth through google translate between Japanese and English until it starts to make sense.

Oh. 30 thou. That is definitely going to be noisy. That is your smoking gun, and you need to fix it because that much lash will only lead to further wear/destruction. As to the cause.....well, it can't be valve seat regression, because that closes clearances, not opens them. Opening clearances implies either wear on the lifter or valve stem tip. The valve seat may have a big dent in it, preventing the valve from closing completely. This could happen if something hard went through the engine and got munched between the valve and seat. It could also be a bent valve stem I guess, holding the valve tight just before it comes all the way up and again stopping it from seating. Or something else stuck in the valve guide causing it to grab.

Just for clarity.....0.019 is 19 thousandths of an inch, right? And 0.20 is 200 thousandths of an inch? Is that a typo on #10 & #11? Because the error you put after #11, or 0.011 doesn't add up. #12 is fine. The clearance is a tiny bit close, but not enough to cause any massive issues. Better if you can get it right, but not going to be causing noise. At 0.200, #11 is f**ked. Unless you have a typo on that one and on #10..... in which case they are only a little bit wider than desired. But they could certainly be responsible for increased clatter.

I would say yes. The central port is the return to the engine, which means the outer oil path facing the camera is dirty oil into filter. The thermostat bypass is from the right hand port back into that outer path. Otherwise, when the thermostat is working (hot), the oil will go out that side and come back on the left to the dirty side of the filter. So your conclusion looks correct.

The only "reset" that really exists on any such ECU is to remove power from it for long enough that it loses its short term memory. Other than using a Consult to reset any DTC, etc.