GTSBoy

The country, located south of Albania, East of Greece, North of Syria and Iraq and west of Iran is word filtered to "the sphincter of the universe" and has been for many many years. It didn't used to be fair, but it kind of is these days. I forgot about it when typing an unrelated use of the name of that country to represent a large, noisy bird with ugly wattles and beady eyes.

Just put one of those whistles they use in the US for hunting the sphincter of the universes onto it.

It's only an 86. Can't you just stick a few rows of gaffa tape across the rear window? #ghettolyf

Seems related to shimming VLSDs. Same level of mechanical respekt. Fo shizzle.

I'd say that any RB build into a Patrol is a horrible waste. Big lumpy tank needs a big lumpy motor. LS is smart option for defs. If you must have Nissan, start at VH41 or 45 and work your way up from there. 41 with a turbo on 8-10 psi will be enormously torquey. See Skid Factory for turbo diesel shenanigans in Patrol. See MCM for turbo VH41 in Stagea.

I would suggest that there aren't any with and without, unless there was a change to the way Nissan did things between S1 & S2. More likely that GTTs all had it (because they have the full fat steering system with HICAS) and that the lesser models might have had a rack without, because of not having speed sensitive steering, for example. Doesn't matter. Yours has the switch, therefore.....yours needs the switch. Have you got the manual for your car? Wiring diagrams are enormously instructive.

Pressure switch is required.

A ported head will really really benefit from the extra lift. You'll be stifling it and giving away a LOT of power. I'd do it (buy cams), and I'm allergic to spending money. Camtech.....I'm a bit WTF!? at the moment. I just went to look at their site and they don't show RB26 cams. What am I missing? If I was to use their RB25 Neo cams offerings as a guide, I'd suggest...actually nothing. I'd want a 10mm lift at least, on the 264s°. Unigroup do an 11mm lift on 260°. They have others (less lift, but I'm not sure exactly what's on offer) too. I'd be thinking that if your head is all coming off and apart, then whatever is needed done to fit those (in case any more clearancing is required) would be worth it. Kelfords (Christchurch) have a couple of options. This https://www.kelfordcams.com/nz/camshafts/nissan/rb26dett/182-b-camshaft-set.html is 260° & 10mm. They will also custom up a cam. So if you wanted something with 10.5 mm of lift (they have some, but with more duration than you seem to want), they could be persuaded to cook something up.

R32 bushes in my shed are SPF1639K, and have 45mm long crush tubes. No other dimension on the bushes is anywhere near as big as 45mm, let alone 50mm. https://www.superpro.com.au/find/superpro-bushing-kit/orphan-SPF1639K SuperPro don't list very much for the Cefiro, so I would just use the R32 part.

Yuh, but that's just the purchase price of the cams. On top of which you have to throw money at the workshop to open the engine up and swap them and do the clearances (and probably some tuning). Once all that is on top, the extra money for a proper cam is not actually that big an increment.

You have front LCA bush in the thread title, rear LCA bush in the body. Probably best if you clarify. Having said that, I'm pretty sure I have seen this asked before (and not sure if I have seen any answers), and I am not sure that there actually is 2 choices of size. The A31 rear end is the same as on R32s, and they only have 1 size that I know of. I think I have a set of spare rear lowers (SuperPro) in bags in the shed. I'll try to remember to put the calipers on them when I get home.

^^What he said. Oil cannot flow down through the normal drains when there is a large qty of crankcase gases flowing up through the same holes. The drains inside the engine are big enough to get the oil back down. They're just not big enough on big power engines because big power = bigger crankcase gas flows, regardless of how good condition the rings, etc are. Adding the oil drain at the back is not about specifically making a pipe for the oil to drain through. It simply adds more total area to the situation, so the gases flowing up through ALL of the holes (the ones in the engine, plus this new "drain") do so at a lower velocity, giving the oil a better chance of draining back against the flow. If you put in hoses between the top of the sump and the cam covers, then you provide the same (or even more) flow area for the gases, and you don't have any pesky oil trying to use those hoses to go down. If these hoses go via a catch can, you get all sorts of win.

I've quoted the first keyword. I've also quoted the next key words. What exactly is a full tank. Dead dry? Sounds empty when you tap it? Scary low on the gauge? On the E?

For example. My bro-in-law's shop (sorry, wrong state) has done this job so many times that they don't even need wiring diagrams. It's all firmly fixed in brain.

OP, I see your other thread asking to buy stock cams. If you don't have any stock cams and therefore have to pay for them.....why would you do so? Just buy some nice Camtech or other decent Aussie cams that a bit milder than what you have? There are great options available that will be really responsive, and 10x better than the stockers. Not least because you will be surrendering a LOT of lift going back to the baby stockers.

No, what I'm saying is if you do everything else properly, then you don't need a head drain bodged onto the back of the head.

And ref the root cause - probably ground the drive off the end of the cam, by the looks of all them chips in there.

have you even read the oil control thread?

Yes, because there are no codes ending in zero.....

No-one in Australia had heard of JRZs until this thread, so I wouldn't be holding your breath. Do JRZ do a more street friendly top for these things?

So they're busy. Ask them when they can fit it into their schedule?

Smaller mufflers. Don't talk about km per tank. Work it out properly in L/100km, or any other units of volume and distance, so the numbers actually have basis in fact.

Cefiro is S chassis at the front end.

The head drain probably only has benefit to fast drag cars. Otherwise it is only extra open area to permit air flow up from the sump into the top covers. And that's what the extra fittings into the sump do also (if plumbed to the top of the engine via a catch can).

There is no ECU code 20 for GTRs, unless they've added some secret sauce to the R34 that wasn't in the earlier ones. (although 21 is the ignition circuit.....you sure you got 20 and not 21?) A multimeter cannot be substituted for an oscilloscope unless you're looking for a steady voltage. They are not fast enough to see brief signals. I would say the ADIC is responsible. You'd best base your research around it.