GTSBoy

Vaseline. Or there is proper o-ring lube available.

Time to dismantle it.

Drag it to a mechanic.

$2100 buy for max $8k payout does not seem like the underwriter is taking on much risk.

Burn it. Claim insurance. Move on.

What makes you think you can turn the boost on an unknown wastegate actuator down below 15 psi? And of course a stock ECU will then boost cut. Will be as rich as f**k until it does so, especially if it has a blown intake manifold gasket or other boost leak to explain the noise. All the answers are in your post.

Plastic will have a life expectancy of seconds. Just do it.

Can't tell you for QLD. Can tell you that in SA my car sailed through a full Regency inspection with a Momo wheel that is clearly marked (on the back) "Not for Road Use". Why do you not look into the documentation provided by the very government agency that you would be expecting approval from? That's the smart way to do this. Cut through the mixed answers.

Seriously? I'm going to close my eyes and count to ten, then you're going to tell me how we're supposed to know what you've hooked up wrong.

CAS is driven off the front end of the exhaust camshaft. Can break. When it does break, shit stops happening. Or shit starts happening, depending on your point of view. Bad noises, for example.

$5 on broken crankshaft. $10 on broken camshaft, exhaust side. $15 on broken CAS drive.

Any sign that it got stuck in the lifter bore?

Shouldn't be NPT. All Jap threads are equivalent to BSP. This very argument/topic has been thrashed around on SAU for a long time now. Do a search. You'll probably also find details on the oil flow in various threads on here, including for the Greddy plate.

It will be coils. They get hot, they suck balls. They cool down, they work again. Rinse and repeat.

The first one is part of the diversity radio antenna, I would guess. The 2nd one.....who knows. Probably put there by the NSA to spy on your thoughts.

Watch youtube videos on how to do it for the same series hose you are using. The Skid Factory videos are some of the best for this. Somewhere in the middle of the Bedford van series, or possibly one of the earlier series, Al spent a lot of time showing how to do this. If you do not do it right, you will get a shit result. If you have half arsed that one ^, then it's probably throw away and start again. You need a vice and/or the proper tools.

Stock boost on a Neo is only 7 psi. 5 at the wastegate spring, + 2 from the stock bleed valve. With better exhaust etc it might run a little higher, but not 12. Takes a boost controller to get it above 10 usually. There's no such thing as "engine pressure + boost pressure". 31 psi makes no sense unless you have a very large turbo shoving a lot of air down the engine's throat. How much power did it make?

That's it in the pics? Jeezus! Wide.

External port would want to be blocked off, minimum.

Take the sandwich plate off and work out which way the oil flows. Out of the engine, into one part of the plate or the other, out through some hole, back through the other, etc etc.

DKF. Designer Kustom Fashion. Sounds bad.

Make a puller. Flat plate that will go across the whole hub, 3 or 6 bolts through the steering wheel mounting holes. Big nut welded in centre. Long bolt through nut, pushing on the steering shaft. Crank away until it all breaks.

Try pulling it out of its base and see that it's a wedge.

That's f**king dodgy and I can't see how it ever had drive. Should not have reliably engaged the splines at all. What you have is a mess and I cannot tell you what the most cost effective option will be. The strongest option obviously retains the 5 bolt driveshaft with the proper CV joints. The 3x2 driveshafts won't suit your diff anyway, so cause more troubles than just having the weaker tripod joints. You would be well advised to take both to a driveshaft/CV workshop and hold them out in front of you and say "please help", in your best Leeloo impersonation. Either that or to a Nissan/Jap import wrecker.

Hardy Spicer