GTSBoy

It got soft when hot.

That surface will never get that hot.

It's generally ~ -20 inHg. That sort of territory. Depends on the health of the motor, cams and idle speed. My boost controller reports -9.9 psi (which is the end of the -ve scale) at a good idle, ranging up to ~ -9 when it's idling faster or venting the carbon canister, etc.

Oil mist in the intake air can and will cause detonation (depending on how much there is). Look at the side of the connections in your existing breather system to work out what size hoses the factory uses.....and copy that.

That's nice. Gurney flap looks serious!

What studs...

Turns out the DE wiring diagram is the same as the DET wiring diagram with DET specific parts labelled. On the pasted image, ignore the bits I put the red box around. They are DET specific (basically the FPCM and the dropping resistor that makes it work). You have fused power coming in from the left, through the fuel pump relay. The switched side of the relay runs through the fuel pump to earth, and the coil side of the relay runs to the ECU's pin that activates the relay. That's it. It's effectively direct wired....just probably with thin wire.

It's not hard to do it well and legal. There is a fairly thorough work through of what is good in the oil control thread. Hundreds of pages, but the reading is worth the effort.

If the power is "controlled" by the ECU then it is very unlikely to be anything other than battery voltage. There is no sense in dropping resistors etc inside an ECU. That would just generate waste heat, which is the enemy of electronics. It's the reason why the FPCM on the turbos is a separate module. The only thing likely to be in the ECU would be a MOSFET to switch the power down to earth. (ie, it is unlikely that the ECU is the source of 12V for the pump. Instead, it is most likely that the power comes from the battery (through a fuse), through the pump and switched to earth at the ECU). If you have the diagram, post it up. I don't think I would have the R34 NA diagrams around here, unless they are hiding in the GTT manual.

Well, in that case, why don't you download the service manual and check out the wiring diagram, seeing as you're working on your car by remote?

Why don't you put a multimeter onto it and find out for yourself?

Yes, internet diagnosis is the way to do this.

Camshaft and gear degrees are identical. 2° is 2°. That may not answer your question. And the lesson learned by retarding the HKS cam by 2° may not be applicable to your cam. Those sorts of changes really come down to what effect the change has on the overlap of the in and ex lobes. As your centrelines are so different, then it is quite likely that the overall profiles of your cams are quite different and you may end up with a different result. You might need more retard, or possibly less, or possibly gain from a little advance.

Anywhere up to 50% of fuel flow is fine.

High tensile bolts, not Bunnings bolts.

There's almost no difference between an oil temperature gauge and a water temperature gauge. Just the marking. Same with the sensors.

Do you know if the upper (and lower, for that matter) shock mount is capable of carrying all the load that would normally and properly be carried by the top spring perch? It's seldom the case that cars with separate springs and dampers are intended to carry the full weight of the car on the shock mounts.

ECU does not supply power to those things. Supplies earth, switched on an off real fast. Diagnose your loom.

I was going to say "blown, 30A fuse".

Yes, your car has a port. Not OBD. Consult. But the PowerFC is not a Nissan ECU, so you're not getting shit out of it. The stupid PowerFC handset will tell you coolant temp, but that's it. Your sandwich plate is a good spot to pick either or both of oil temp and pressure. Both are a good idea. The factory oil pressure gauge cannot be trusted. The thing to consider when putting an oil temp sensor is the question of whether you are measuring the oil before or after the cooler. There are different points of view, but arguably the safest thing to measure is the hottest oil (ie, before if goes through the cooler). Coolant temp is a good idea. Exhaust gas temp entering the turbo is a good idea. The cheapy stepper motor gauges like Pro-Sport can do a decent job. But proper brands like Defi, Apexi or VDO, Smiths etc etc are all a better idea. The best idea is to bin the PowerFC and use a decent aftermarket ECU that can watch a whole range of sensors (all those mentioned above) and report them as required, alarm when required and protect the engine when required.

Why would you worry about it when no car manufacturer does?

Everything Sydneykid has to say is essentially correct and well considered. But it is mostly aimed at Skylines without suspension arms that remove all the bush compliance. Toe in = stable, toe out = active (and therefore, effectively, unstable). So, yes, toe out is recommended for enhancing turn in. But at very high speeds that lack of stability can make the car very difficult to drive. Better to start a little more conservative and adjust the alignment after discovering how it drives with something less likely to kill you. Now, the other thing about toe-in & out is that stock suspensions have plenty of movement in them from all the squidgy bushes. What that means is that when the car is moving forward, there is a load pushing the wheels backward, relative to the body. If there is compliance in the bushes then the general response is for the toe-in to decrease. So let's start at the rear. If you set -1mm of toe-in at the rear and that decreases, you will actually end up with zero toe, or possibly even toe-out when the suspension gives. If you have really stiff bushes or steel rod ends, then there is less deflection and you don't get the same effect. Better to reduce the static toe-in to zero, to get the wheels pointing where you would want them to be from the start. The aim of stock alignments on stock bushes is to get close to zero toe while under way. Toe out at the back can make the car incredibly kill-deathy. Depending on spring rates, ARB stiffness, damper settings and road bumpiness, it can make it super willing to rotate, sending you off into the furniture at high speed. Again, better to start slightly conservative. At the front, it's the same story. Stock alignments are toe-in, compliance pushes that out to zero-ish. With less compliance, set zero to get zero, or slightly positive when moving. Neg camber = inside edge wear. Toe out = inside edge wear. Therefore Neg camber + toe out = much faster inside edge wear. Usually, to even out tyre wear, alignment shops will use toe-in with neg camber to push the wear across the whole face of the tyre. But if you want aggressive cornering turn-in and grip, you don't want the toe-in, so you have to accept the wear.

Horns always work with the ignition off. You should have a fuse in the line feeding both sides of the relay.

They just looked at the vehicle's stock sensor, which, in the dim dark past when they were designed, were certainly all narrowband. As Ben said, of no value these days.

I would use zero toe at the rear, especially if you have solid ends on the arms. I would also use slightly less toe in on the front. -1 total, or even zero, especially if you have solid ends on the castor arms. Your front camber target will be ace for fast corners, but will eat tyres on normal street driving. Good for the 'ring but. Tyre pressures are the big unknown here. I would start with 38psi and consider going higher for a fast track. The other big unknown is the suspension settings. You will need to work out where to set the dampers to work with those springs and whatever tyre pressures you might end up with (assuming that you have an IR pyrometer and work out from tyre temps that you need different front to rear).