GTSBoy

I would use zero toe at the rear, especially if you have solid ends on the arms. I would also use slightly less toe in on the front. -1 total, or even zero, especially if you have solid ends on the castor arms. Your front camber target will be ace for fast corners, but will eat tyres on normal street driving. Good for the 'ring but. Tyre pressures are the big unknown here. I would start with 38psi and consider going higher for a fast track. The other big unknown is the suspension settings. You will need to work out where to set the dampers to work with those springs and whatever tyre pressures you might end up with (assuming that you have an IR pyrometer and work out from tyre temps that you need different front to rear).

Sheetmetal + saw + folder + welder + spray paint = any bracket you need to mount that battery anywhere. Go to it.

A piece of hose.

Operator technique, quality of gauge on the tester, lack of lubrication on the bore walls.....or it could just be a little worn. But coming out even at a a slightly low number is not very commonly linked to an evenly worn engine, if you know what I mean. They don't usually wear that evenly.

140 is sort of low for an NA, but the fact that they are even suggests that the motor is fine.

Caltex 98 is not really 98, it is more like 96 with some black magic added that they claim makes it work like 98 but it isn't really true. I wouldn't put it in my lawnmower. BP98 is usually the best quality choice around. Mixing the fuels shouldn't do anything, especially with the bulk of it being BP. There are such things as occasional bad batches. Has happened to me. But that wouldn't go away in 10 minutes - would last the whole tank. Your experience might suggest a blocked injector, which may have possibly been caused by different detergent additives in the BP fuel releasing stuff that the Caltex was not moving - but only a small blockage that cleared itself. Which would be unusual. The symptoms sound like ignition misfiring also, so it could be worth pondering the state of your coils.

If the engine is running, spray carby cleaner or similar at possible leak spots. If you find the leak the revs will change as you replace air with fuel. If the engine is not able to run, you do a pressure test and look for outward leaks. Do a search on here for a howto. Has to have been covered more times than a Kardashian wedding.

You have a vacuum leak.

Definitely fire.

Cheapy eBay scan tool will only read ECU. Proper mechanics' scan tool will interrogate every CU in the car. Steering sensor is #1 likely option for HICAS fault, but there are plenty of other options and every time we point someone to the usual answer we later find out that something hideously stupid had been done to the car and no-one could have ever guessed what the real fault would turn out to be.

Also, after you remove the HICAS CU, don't be surprised when a whole bunch of stuff goes wrong.

Take it to a mechanic. Put a scan tool on it. Find out if there are any sensor problems on the engine. Also interrogate the HICAS CU and find out what it is upset about.

Too much toe out. Possibly just something (a bush) completely f**ked, allowing the wheels to flail around wherever they like when loaded in corners. Might sit straight on a wheel aligner, but drive to toe out while moving forward or cornering.

Search for the answers to these questions. There have been posts on both topics in just the last 2 months. Multiple.

No, you got it right. Your settings are just about identical to mine. Profec B on Neo stock turbo. 12 psi.

Actually, I dun f**ked up. But only because I don't care which terminal is which number. I mixed up the switched side and the coil side. Look at the below image.... Power to run the load (the horn) actually goes in through T30. T87 is the output to the horn. T85 Now, you could do either of the following (but not both). 1) You could swap the connections I described in the underlined text to be the other way around if you wanted to. It would still work. Those terminals just get joined together when the relay's coil is powered. or 2) You could put the same power supply onto both T30 and T86 (using a wire that connects them both outside the relay AND to the power source of choice). Then the horn button (and its earth) get connected to T85. It is usually important to put the activation power onto the right terminal (that would be 12V onto T86) because they often have a diode in them to stop back voltage spikes when the relay is opened (ie, when you turn it off).

Um....it's not 1975 any more. There is no perceptible delay on international calls, regardless of whether you use a landline, a mobile, skype on your computer or a payphone. Hell, I routinely dial into 20 way phone conferences based in places like Minnesota from my home phone, mobile or computer, from motels and airports on wi-fi and all other sorts of crap, and there's not enough delay to cause any angst.

NO! It does not fu(king matter whether you have the switched side going in or out of either 85 and 86. They are BOTH just terminals that are connected together inside the relay when you power the coil. What matters is that you put battery power into one of them, and the connect the horn button (and therefore the EARTH on the other side of the button) to the other switched terminal. The earth is provided by the horn button being pushed, closing its switch and connecting to earth. The power flows to that earth through the relay from the other side of the relay's switched terminals. I have just rephrased what I have posted before, and what Kiwi posted. Same same. Not rocket surgery.

It's not a closed loop boost controller, therefore you CANNOT make the setpoint a psi target. The main setting is basically the duty cycle of the solenoid. The bigger the number, the more it is bleeding off and the higher the boost will go. When you get to 100, it cannot bleed any more and whatever boost you have achieved is all you will get. Of course,the boost may stop rising or the turbo may overspeed and die before you get to 100 anyway. The gain (set gain) is for trimming the main control result to eliminate droops or spikes.

^ What he said. Follow Dose Pipe's advice - 3/4 is not a diameter or a length. It is 3/4 of full length injectors. The same basic injector is usually available in 1/2, 3/4 and full length. Also, I have pointed you at injectorsonline.com for a good reason. Read the info attached to each injector on offer there for Neos.....

12V+ -> relay coil -> horn switch -> earth. That's what you have to get right. The other side (the output of the relay) is easy.

The two haves of the relay are completely separate. The power to run the relay's coil comes form the car's original circuit. The power that eventually runs the horn (on the switched side) is completely separate. The drawing for how to hook it up is usually printed on the side of the relay.

car wiring generaly switches to earth. Your horn button switches to earth. The other end of the relay coil obviously has to be 12v+.

You want to buy ~1000cc (or more like 1100cc these days) Bosch EV14 based injectors from a reputable supplier. Get the right length ones for the Neo, with wiring adaptors. viz https://www.injectorsonline.com/au/fuel-injectors/nissan/rb25-neo.html You're looking at ~$100 ozzy each. Not 100 pounds each. And no, you cannot fit massive injectors and drive it to the dyno. Get them fitted there. And do't buy injectors from random ebay shitters unless you know the ebay seller as another vendor elsewhere - like, I'd buy from injectors online** (see my link) on ebay if there was a special or something. **or any of several others.

Imagine that you're operating the engine at part throttle. Enough to make, say, 50% of your target boost (as measured inside the plenum, where you would expect to measure it). There will be a sizable pressure drop across the throttle body - that's what the throttle is for. Now, case 1. Things set up the way that they are supposed to be. Boost gauge in plenum, boost source for boost control actuation after the turbo but before the TB. The boost controller will receive a larger boost signal because there is more pressure upstream the TB. This effectively means that you will need to bleed more of it away in order to reach your target boost, but this is better than.... Case 2. The boost controller's boost source is downstream the TB. Now it is only seeing exactly the same boost value as the gauge. And, as stated in the 1st paragraph, we're only seeing 50% of the boost target. It is possible, under these conditions for the turbo to be working far too hard and overboosting in the pipe from turbo to TB because the wastegate should be shut because the boost signal to the controller is only ~50% of target. In this situation, you end up needing much smaller throttle openings to make the same part throttle power, because of the high pressure in the inlet tract. But, if you had an EFR or other speed sensitive turbo, it could spell insta-death. If the throttle is wide open, it makes no difference. But there is a lot of part throttle operation in most turbo cars, and no-one ever seems too think about that.