GTSBoy

Um....it's not 1975 any more. There is no perceptible delay on international calls, regardless of whether you use a landline, a mobile, skype on your computer or a payphone. Hell, I routinely dial into 20 way phone conferences based in places like Minnesota from my home phone, mobile or computer, from motels and airports on wi-fi and all other sorts of crap, and there's not enough delay to cause any angst.

NO! It does not fu(king matter whether you have the switched side going in or out of either 85 and 86. They are BOTH just terminals that are connected together inside the relay when you power the coil. What matters is that you put battery power into one of them, and the connect the horn button (and therefore the EARTH on the other side of the button) to the other switched terminal. The earth is provided by the horn button being pushed, closing its switch and connecting to earth. The power flows to that earth through the relay from the other side of the relay's switched terminals. I have just rephrased what I have posted before, and what Kiwi posted. Same same. Not rocket surgery.

It's not a closed loop boost controller, therefore you CANNOT make the setpoint a psi target. The main setting is basically the duty cycle of the solenoid. The bigger the number, the more it is bleeding off and the higher the boost will go. When you get to 100, it cannot bleed any more and whatever boost you have achieved is all you will get. Of course,the boost may stop rising or the turbo may overspeed and die before you get to 100 anyway. The gain (set gain) is for trimming the main control result to eliminate droops or spikes.

^ What he said. Follow Dose Pipe's advice - 3/4 is not a diameter or a length. It is 3/4 of full length injectors. The same basic injector is usually available in 1/2, 3/4 and full length. Also, I have pointed you at injectorsonline.com for a good reason. Read the info attached to each injector on offer there for Neos.....

12V+ -> relay coil -> horn switch -> earth. That's what you have to get right. The other side (the output of the relay) is easy.

The two haves of the relay are completely separate. The power to run the relay's coil comes form the car's original circuit. The power that eventually runs the horn (on the switched side) is completely separate. The drawing for how to hook it up is usually printed on the side of the relay.

car wiring generaly switches to earth. Your horn button switches to earth. The other end of the relay coil obviously has to be 12v+.

You want to buy ~1000cc (or more like 1100cc these days) Bosch EV14 based injectors from a reputable supplier. Get the right length ones for the Neo, with wiring adaptors. viz https://www.injectorsonline.com/au/fuel-injectors/nissan/rb25-neo.html You're looking at ~$100 ozzy each. Not 100 pounds each. And no, you cannot fit massive injectors and drive it to the dyno. Get them fitted there. And do't buy injectors from random ebay shitters unless you know the ebay seller as another vendor elsewhere - like, I'd buy from injectors online** (see my link) on ebay if there was a special or something. **or any of several others.

Imagine that you're operating the engine at part throttle. Enough to make, say, 50% of your target boost (as measured inside the plenum, where you would expect to measure it). There will be a sizable pressure drop across the throttle body - that's what the throttle is for. Now, case 1. Things set up the way that they are supposed to be. Boost gauge in plenum, boost source for boost control actuation after the turbo but before the TB. The boost controller will receive a larger boost signal because there is more pressure upstream the TB. This effectively means that you will need to bleed more of it away in order to reach your target boost, but this is better than.... Case 2. The boost controller's boost source is downstream the TB. Now it is only seeing exactly the same boost value as the gauge. And, as stated in the 1st paragraph, we're only seeing 50% of the boost target. It is possible, under these conditions for the turbo to be working far too hard and overboosting in the pipe from turbo to TB because the wastegate should be shut because the boost signal to the controller is only ~50% of target. In this situation, you end up needing much smaller throttle openings to make the same part throttle power, because of the high pressure in the inlet tract. But, if you had an EFR or other speed sensitive turbo, it could spell insta-death. If the throttle is wide open, it makes no difference. But there is a lot of part throttle operation in most turbo cars, and no-one ever seems too think about that.

Well it's not running now....

I wasn't suggesting that my car's oil temp would be same as coolant when doing laps. Of course it would get hot without a cooler. My point was that, as a baseline, driving on the street without the thrashing, the HX does a good job of keeping them very close together. Then to compare that with what the OP was saying his pre-cooler water & oil temps were (which sounded wrong to me).

If not going for G series, then EFR 7163 or 7670 would be the obvious choices to fit the above criteria, no? More power potential than asked for, but excellent characteristics in all other dimensions.

Oil cooler should be behind the driver's side brake duct. Clean air, short pipe runs. Factory water temp gauge, like all factory water temp gauge, is set up to NOT move from centre over a very wide range of temperatures. That's to stop people from having a panic attack every time they see it move upward. The factory oil temp gauge's accuracy is anyone's guess. FWIW, on my Neo, with no extra oil cooler and the stock water-oil heat exchanger working, my oil temp generally sits (on my aftermarket gauge) at 92°C or so......almost exactly the same as the coolant thermostat setting.

A full face organic. There are several clutch vendors here in Oz that are fantastic. If you are geographically challenged, then the smartestest bestest approach would be a Nismo coppermix.

Um. It tells you right there on the diagnostic tool that your ATESSA solenoid is borked.

Nobody uses puck clutches any more.

I have multiple Prosport gauges in my car. The white LEDs are all failing, half of the red LEDs are failing. The green ones are OK. It's just as well that I want them green. The gauges have been working fine for years. I do have one problem with the exhaust pyrometer. It does weird things that I'm not going to bother to explain. I would replace it with another of the same if I could be bothered doing anything at all about it.

If your BOV is external venting and you have an airflow meter, then the setup is wrong and you need to get rid of the BOV and/or replace it with a recirculating BOV. This is not rocket surgery. These lessons were learnt in the 1990s and are excruciatingly well documented on this and every other such site.

Yes, this is one place where the stupid are in charge. Everybody in the automotive world uses inches of mercury or inches (or mm) of water to measure vacuum, regardless of how stupid it is to use the column height of a liquid to describe a pressure term. Ask the Martians what pressure (in Pascals) corresponds to -300 mmH2O and they will give you a completely different answer to the people who live on Jupiter.

have you put any thought into the combined possibilities of; A) Getting the thing regassed, B) That the air blend door is playing up, like it does in almost all Nissans of the era?

Not possible. There are many dumb people in the world, but not enough for that silliness to become the majority position. The only related thing that is true is that the boost source for running a boost controller must be before the TB.

OOhh! Mental note if you are going to go forward with it. Make the tapping ports in the ex manifolds suitable for taking a stainless thermocouple gland. So.....1/8" BSP or something like that, that will swallow a 3mm thermocouple. Use the holes for measuring pressure, and plug them afterwards. But if you ever want to put pyrometers in....presto.

Yuh, vac gauge on recirc piping into turbo inlets is good. Drilled & tapped fitting on ex manis can be instructive for only a little effort too.

If the thrust bearings show signs of wear considerably earlier than any other part of the turbo, it suggests that there is a significant axial load (in one direction or the other) when in use. I suppose you can loo at which direction the thrust wear is and determine if there is excessive suction in the intake (because restrictive) or excessive EMP. Solving the thrust issue then comes from solving whatever was causing the thrust load.

You don't dare close the clearances up more than a little bit, and that little bit translates into precious f**k all extra duration and lift. There are cheaper ways to find the equivalent power than the extra shims you will need and the hours spent.