GTSBoy

Imagine that you're operating the engine at part throttle. Enough to make, say, 50% of your target boost (as measured inside the plenum, where you would expect to measure it). There will be a sizable pressure drop across the throttle body - that's what the throttle is for. Now, case 1. Things set up the way that they are supposed to be. Boost gauge in plenum, boost source for boost control actuation after the turbo but before the TB. The boost controller will receive a larger boost signal because there is more pressure upstream the TB. This effectively means that you will need to bleed more of it away in order to reach your target boost, but this is better than.... Case 2. The boost controller's boost source is downstream the TB. Now it is only seeing exactly the same boost value as the gauge. And, as stated in the 1st paragraph, we're only seeing 50% of the boost target. It is possible, under these conditions for the turbo to be working far too hard and overboosting in the pipe from turbo to TB because the wastegate should be shut because the boost signal to the controller is only ~50% of target. In this situation, you end up needing much smaller throttle openings to make the same part throttle power, because of the high pressure in the inlet tract. But, if you had an EFR or other speed sensitive turbo, it could spell insta-death. If the throttle is wide open, it makes no difference. But there is a lot of part throttle operation in most turbo cars, and no-one ever seems too think about that.

Well it's not running now....

I wasn't suggesting that my car's oil temp would be same as coolant when doing laps. Of course it would get hot without a cooler. My point was that, as a baseline, driving on the street without the thrashing, the HX does a good job of keeping them very close together. Then to compare that with what the OP was saying his pre-cooler water & oil temps were (which sounded wrong to me).

If not going for G series, then EFR 7163 or 7670 would be the obvious choices to fit the above criteria, no? More power potential than asked for, but excellent characteristics in all other dimensions.

Oil cooler should be behind the driver's side brake duct. Clean air, short pipe runs. Factory water temp gauge, like all factory water temp gauge, is set up to NOT move from centre over a very wide range of temperatures. That's to stop people from having a panic attack every time they see it move upward. The factory oil temp gauge's accuracy is anyone's guess. FWIW, on my Neo, with no extra oil cooler and the stock water-oil heat exchanger working, my oil temp generally sits (on my aftermarket gauge) at 92°C or so......almost exactly the same as the coolant thermostat setting.

A full face organic. There are several clutch vendors here in Oz that are fantastic. If you are geographically challenged, then the smartestest bestest approach would be a Nismo coppermix.

Um. It tells you right there on the diagnostic tool that your ATESSA solenoid is borked.

Nobody uses puck clutches any more.

I have multiple Prosport gauges in my car. The white LEDs are all failing, half of the red LEDs are failing. The green ones are OK. It's just as well that I want them green. The gauges have been working fine for years. I do have one problem with the exhaust pyrometer. It does weird things that I'm not going to bother to explain. I would replace it with another of the same if I could be bothered doing anything at all about it.

If your BOV is external venting and you have an airflow meter, then the setup is wrong and you need to get rid of the BOV and/or replace it with a recirculating BOV. This is not rocket surgery. These lessons were learnt in the 1990s and are excruciatingly well documented on this and every other such site.

Yes, this is one place where the stupid are in charge. Everybody in the automotive world uses inches of mercury or inches (or mm) of water to measure vacuum, regardless of how stupid it is to use the column height of a liquid to describe a pressure term. Ask the Martians what pressure (in Pascals) corresponds to -300 mmH2O and they will give you a completely different answer to the people who live on Jupiter.

have you put any thought into the combined possibilities of; A) Getting the thing regassed, B) That the air blend door is playing up, like it does in almost all Nissans of the era?

Not possible. There are many dumb people in the world, but not enough for that silliness to become the majority position. The only related thing that is true is that the boost source for running a boost controller must be before the TB.

OOhh! Mental note if you are going to go forward with it. Make the tapping ports in the ex manifolds suitable for taking a stainless thermocouple gland. So.....1/8" BSP or something like that, that will swallow a 3mm thermocouple. Use the holes for measuring pressure, and plug them afterwards. But if you ever want to put pyrometers in....presto.

Yuh, vac gauge on recirc piping into turbo inlets is good. Drilled & tapped fitting on ex manis can be instructive for only a little effort too.

If the thrust bearings show signs of wear considerably earlier than any other part of the turbo, it suggests that there is a significant axial load (in one direction or the other) when in use. I suppose you can loo at which direction the thrust wear is and determine if there is excessive suction in the intake (because restrictive) or excessive EMP. Solving the thrust issue then comes from solving whatever was causing the thrust load.

You don't dare close the clearances up more than a little bit, and that little bit translates into precious f**k all extra duration and lift. There are cheaper ways to find the equivalent power than the extra shims you will need and the hours spent.

Have you got the new calipers in hand? If so, it's 3 seconds (well, maybe 30 seconds) to have a look see. It is, however, my thought that they do list different parts for brake lines for these two setups, which tends to suggest that they aren't the same, right?

A turbo, a manifold to hang it off, a new dump pipe and front part of exhaust. Turbo oil feed lines and suitable source for the oil + return to the sump. Turbo water cooling lines, with again, suitable source point and return. Turbo inlet pipework. New AFM (assuming you're sticking with stock type ECU - otherwise, you might be deleting the AFM). New airbox/filter arrangement to suit whatever you choose there. Front mount intercooler, plus pipework from turbo to throttle. Bigger injectors. Bigger fuel pump. Suitable ECU. Going +turbo is best done with an aftermarket ECU. The DE ECU expects to see a boost sensor that you don't have and won't want, except to satisfy the ECU's demand to see it. The DE ECU is not as well set up for a turbo engine. I actually do not know if the DE ECU can even be Nistuned. I would assume it can. You need to be able to Nistune it if you want to use a Nissan ECU. Brakes. And, the howto. This has been covered many many times. There are threads on here that you can search up on how to add turbo to RB25. Look 'em all up.

You wanna put in a DET or add a turbo to the DE?

A GTT is a turbo. Is it really a GT, or has someone put an NA engine into a GTT? The reason for asking/caring, is that it will have some effect on our answers.

3076 is more of a 300rwkW turbo. You could do a search in these forums or using google pointing at sau.com.au for mentions of 3076 power reports. There is a 58 page thread stickied at the top of this forum that would have dozens of mentions in it alone. It's a very common turbo. If it really only has ~180rwkW in your car, then.....dunno how that would be possible at 16 psi. The standard turbo will do more power than that at 12 psi! So you can't assume the 180rwkW number is correct. Definitely wrong. At 16 psi it should still be in the mid 200s at least. And it would feel pretty quick.

Probably <350hp@wheels. Or more to the point, <270rwkW at the wheels. More likely to be ~250rwkW. And that would only be if it was boosting to more than 16 psi and well tuned. The 3067 is a baby turbo. 67mm compressor really is too small for a Neo25. Better off with at least a 71, preferably 76. And that was 10 years ago. Now, there are significantly better options available. Not shitting on your turbo, just letting you know where it falls in the power potential stakes. 240-250rwkW is a really nice power level for a street car anyway.

I really should read your post more thoroughly! I thought you were looking for a clutch and thought CBC was an odd choice, but was willing to run with it if they said they could supply what you were after. CBC is probably a fair choice for getting bearings. All the other major bearing suppliers are probably equivalent. You can also source the bearings (singly, rather than as a kit) from Nissan, or other sources of Nissan spares (like Amayama, RHDJapan, etc). You could also talk to gearbox/diff workshops about buying through them, although it would probably cost more. They, at least, upon sighting your gearbox, would be more likely to source the correct bits. Now, here's an important point. I'm not sure whether there are any significant differences between the push and pull type GTR gearboxes for any of the bearings. The thrust bearing for the clutch itself is, of course, totally different. But everything behind that could be exactly the same. Of course, the early push type ones probably saw some upgrades in the "model change" that lead to the pull type, so there are probably differences in bearings between them, along with synchro spec differences and all sort of other possibilities. If you get and install Nissan FAST, and put the VIN into it, you will find listings of all the part numbers for your car. If the gearbox is the original one, it should be accurate. Alternatively, you could post your VIN in here or in the dedicated thread and ask for someone else to FAST it for you. Beware though, it is very generous of people to do it for you, because it can be quite time consuming for a large number of parts like this.

As Duncan said, your pictures are of a pull clutch. The later R32 GTR RB26 clutches have nothing in common with the RB20 clutches. Make sure that you don't confuse CBC (or any other clutch supplier) by mentioning RB20s. Only talk about "pull type RB26" clutches.