GTSBoy

Definitely fire.

Cheapy eBay scan tool will only read ECU. Proper mechanics' scan tool will interrogate every CU in the car. Steering sensor is #1 likely option for HICAS fault, but there are plenty of other options and every time we point someone to the usual answer we later find out that something hideously stupid had been done to the car and no-one could have ever guessed what the real fault would turn out to be.

Also, after you remove the HICAS CU, don't be surprised when a whole bunch of stuff goes wrong.

Take it to a mechanic. Put a scan tool on it. Find out if there are any sensor problems on the engine. Also interrogate the HICAS CU and find out what it is upset about.

Too much toe out. Possibly just something (a bush) completely f**ked, allowing the wheels to flail around wherever they like when loaded in corners. Might sit straight on a wheel aligner, but drive to toe out while moving forward or cornering.

Search for the answers to these questions. There have been posts on both topics in just the last 2 months. Multiple.

No, you got it right. Your settings are just about identical to mine. Profec B on Neo stock turbo. 12 psi.

Actually, I dun f**ked up. But only because I don't care which terminal is which number. I mixed up the switched side and the coil side. Look at the below image.... Power to run the load (the horn) actually goes in through T30. T87 is the output to the horn. T85 Now, you could do either of the following (but not both). 1) You could swap the connections I described in the underlined text to be the other way around if you wanted to. It would still work. Those terminals just get joined together when the relay's coil is powered. or 2) You could put the same power supply onto both T30 and T86 (using a wire that connects them both outside the relay AND to the power source of choice). Then the horn button (and its earth) get connected to T85. It is usually important to put the activation power onto the right terminal (that would be 12V onto T86) because they often have a diode in them to stop back voltage spikes when the relay is opened (ie, when you turn it off).

Um....it's not 1975 any more. There is no perceptible delay on international calls, regardless of whether you use a landline, a mobile, skype on your computer or a payphone. Hell, I routinely dial into 20 way phone conferences based in places like Minnesota from my home phone, mobile or computer, from motels and airports on wi-fi and all other sorts of crap, and there's not enough delay to cause any angst.

NO! It does not fu(king matter whether you have the switched side going in or out of either 85 and 86. They are BOTH just terminals that are connected together inside the relay when you power the coil. What matters is that you put battery power into one of them, and the connect the horn button (and therefore the EARTH on the other side of the button) to the other switched terminal. The earth is provided by the horn button being pushed, closing its switch and connecting to earth. The power flows to that earth through the relay from the other side of the relay's switched terminals. I have just rephrased what I have posted before, and what Kiwi posted. Same same. Not rocket surgery.

It's not a closed loop boost controller, therefore you CANNOT make the setpoint a psi target. The main setting is basically the duty cycle of the solenoid. The bigger the number, the more it is bleeding off and the higher the boost will go. When you get to 100, it cannot bleed any more and whatever boost you have achieved is all you will get. Of course,the boost may stop rising or the turbo may overspeed and die before you get to 100 anyway. The gain (set gain) is for trimming the main control result to eliminate droops or spikes.

^ What he said. Follow Dose Pipe's advice - 3/4 is not a diameter or a length. It is 3/4 of full length injectors. The same basic injector is usually available in 1/2, 3/4 and full length. Also, I have pointed you at injectorsonline.com for a good reason. Read the info attached to each injector on offer there for Neos.....

12V+ -> relay coil -> horn switch -> earth. That's what you have to get right. The other side (the output of the relay) is easy.

The two haves of the relay are completely separate. The power to run the relay's coil comes form the car's original circuit. The power that eventually runs the horn (on the switched side) is completely separate. The drawing for how to hook it up is usually printed on the side of the relay.

car wiring generaly switches to earth. Your horn button switches to earth. The other end of the relay coil obviously has to be 12v+.

You want to buy ~1000cc (or more like 1100cc these days) Bosch EV14 based injectors from a reputable supplier. Get the right length ones for the Neo, with wiring adaptors. viz https://www.injectorsonline.com/au/fuel-injectors/nissan/rb25-neo.html You're looking at ~$100 ozzy each. Not 100 pounds each. And no, you cannot fit massive injectors and drive it to the dyno. Get them fitted there. And do't buy injectors from random ebay shitters unless you know the ebay seller as another vendor elsewhere - like, I'd buy from injectors online** (see my link) on ebay if there was a special or something. **or any of several others.

Imagine that you're operating the engine at part throttle. Enough to make, say, 50% of your target boost (as measured inside the plenum, where you would expect to measure it). There will be a sizable pressure drop across the throttle body - that's what the throttle is for. Now, case 1. Things set up the way that they are supposed to be. Boost gauge in plenum, boost source for boost control actuation after the turbo but before the TB. The boost controller will receive a larger boost signal because there is more pressure upstream the TB. This effectively means that you will need to bleed more of it away in order to reach your target boost, but this is better than.... Case 2. The boost controller's boost source is downstream the TB. Now it is only seeing exactly the same boost value as the gauge. And, as stated in the 1st paragraph, we're only seeing 50% of the boost target. It is possible, under these conditions for the turbo to be working far too hard and overboosting in the pipe from turbo to TB because the wastegate should be shut because the boost signal to the controller is only ~50% of target. In this situation, you end up needing much smaller throttle openings to make the same part throttle power, because of the high pressure in the inlet tract. But, if you had an EFR or other speed sensitive turbo, it could spell insta-death. If the throttle is wide open, it makes no difference. But there is a lot of part throttle operation in most turbo cars, and no-one ever seems too think about that.

Well it's not running now....

I wasn't suggesting that my car's oil temp would be same as coolant when doing laps. Of course it would get hot without a cooler. My point was that, as a baseline, driving on the street without the thrashing, the HX does a good job of keeping them very close together. Then to compare that with what the OP was saying his pre-cooler water & oil temps were (which sounded wrong to me).

If not going for G series, then EFR 7163 or 7670 would be the obvious choices to fit the above criteria, no? More power potential than asked for, but excellent characteristics in all other dimensions.

Oil cooler should be behind the driver's side brake duct. Clean air, short pipe runs. Factory water temp gauge, like all factory water temp gauge, is set up to NOT move from centre over a very wide range of temperatures. That's to stop people from having a panic attack every time they see it move upward. The factory oil temp gauge's accuracy is anyone's guess. FWIW, on my Neo, with no extra oil cooler and the stock water-oil heat exchanger working, my oil temp generally sits (on my aftermarket gauge) at 92°C or so......almost exactly the same as the coolant thermostat setting.

A full face organic. There are several clutch vendors here in Oz that are fantastic. If you are geographically challenged, then the smartestest bestest approach would be a Nismo coppermix.

Um. It tells you right there on the diagnostic tool that your ATESSA solenoid is borked.

Nobody uses puck clutches any more.

I have multiple Prosport gauges in my car. The white LEDs are all failing, half of the red LEDs are failing. The green ones are OK. It's just as well that I want them green. The gauges have been working fine for years. I do have one problem with the exhaust pyrometer. It does weird things that I'm not going to bother to explain. I would replace it with another of the same if I could be bothered doing anything at all about it.