GTSBoy

Yes, your car has a port. Not OBD. Consult. But the PowerFC is not a Nissan ECU, so you're not getting shit out of it. The stupid PowerFC handset will tell you coolant temp, but that's it. Your sandwich plate is a good spot to pick either or both of oil temp and pressure. Both are a good idea. The factory oil pressure gauge cannot be trusted. The thing to consider when putting an oil temp sensor is the question of whether you are measuring the oil before or after the cooler. There are different points of view, but arguably the safest thing to measure is the hottest oil (ie, before if goes through the cooler). Coolant temp is a good idea. Exhaust gas temp entering the turbo is a good idea. The cheapy stepper motor gauges like Pro-Sport can do a decent job. But proper brands like Defi, Apexi or VDO, Smiths etc etc are all a better idea. The best idea is to bin the PowerFC and use a decent aftermarket ECU that can watch a whole range of sensors (all those mentioned above) and report them as required, alarm when required and protect the engine when required.

Why would you worry about it when no car manufacturer does?

Everything Sydneykid has to say is essentially correct and well considered. But it is mostly aimed at Skylines without suspension arms that remove all the bush compliance. Toe in = stable, toe out = active (and therefore, effectively, unstable). So, yes, toe out is recommended for enhancing turn in. But at very high speeds that lack of stability can make the car very difficult to drive. Better to start a little more conservative and adjust the alignment after discovering how it drives with something less likely to kill you. Now, the other thing about toe-in & out is that stock suspensions have plenty of movement in them from all the squidgy bushes. What that means is that when the car is moving forward, there is a load pushing the wheels backward, relative to the body. If there is compliance in the bushes then the general response is for the toe-in to decrease. So let's start at the rear. If you set -1mm of toe-in at the rear and that decreases, you will actually end up with zero toe, or possibly even toe-out when the suspension gives. If you have really stiff bushes or steel rod ends, then there is less deflection and you don't get the same effect. Better to reduce the static toe-in to zero, to get the wheels pointing where you would want them to be from the start. The aim of stock alignments on stock bushes is to get close to zero toe while under way. Toe out at the back can make the car incredibly kill-deathy. Depending on spring rates, ARB stiffness, damper settings and road bumpiness, it can make it super willing to rotate, sending you off into the furniture at high speed. Again, better to start slightly conservative. At the front, it's the same story. Stock alignments are toe-in, compliance pushes that out to zero-ish. With less compliance, set zero to get zero, or slightly positive when moving. Neg camber = inside edge wear. Toe out = inside edge wear. Therefore Neg camber + toe out = much faster inside edge wear. Usually, to even out tyre wear, alignment shops will use toe-in with neg camber to push the wear across the whole face of the tyre. But if you want aggressive cornering turn-in and grip, you don't want the toe-in, so you have to accept the wear.

Horns always work with the ignition off. You should have a fuse in the line feeding both sides of the relay.

They just looked at the vehicle's stock sensor, which, in the dim dark past when they were designed, were certainly all narrowband. As Ben said, of no value these days.

I would use zero toe at the rear, especially if you have solid ends on the arms. I would also use slightly less toe in on the front. -1 total, or even zero, especially if you have solid ends on the castor arms. Your front camber target will be ace for fast corners, but will eat tyres on normal street driving. Good for the 'ring but. Tyre pressures are the big unknown here. I would start with 38psi and consider going higher for a fast track. The other big unknown is the suspension settings. You will need to work out where to set the dampers to work with those springs and whatever tyre pressures you might end up with (assuming that you have an IR pyrometer and work out from tyre temps that you need different front to rear).

Sheetmetal + saw + folder + welder + spray paint = any bracket you need to mount that battery anywhere. Go to it.

A piece of hose.

Operator technique, quality of gauge on the tester, lack of lubrication on the bore walls.....or it could just be a little worn. But coming out even at a a slightly low number is not very commonly linked to an evenly worn engine, if you know what I mean. They don't usually wear that evenly.

140 is sort of low for an NA, but the fact that they are even suggests that the motor is fine.

Caltex 98 is not really 98, it is more like 96 with some black magic added that they claim makes it work like 98 but it isn't really true. I wouldn't put it in my lawnmower. BP98 is usually the best quality choice around. Mixing the fuels shouldn't do anything, especially with the bulk of it being BP. There are such things as occasional bad batches. Has happened to me. But that wouldn't go away in 10 minutes - would last the whole tank. Your experience might suggest a blocked injector, which may have possibly been caused by different detergent additives in the BP fuel releasing stuff that the Caltex was not moving - but only a small blockage that cleared itself. Which would be unusual. The symptoms sound like ignition misfiring also, so it could be worth pondering the state of your coils.

If the engine is running, spray carby cleaner or similar at possible leak spots. If you find the leak the revs will change as you replace air with fuel. If the engine is not able to run, you do a pressure test and look for outward leaks. Do a search on here for a howto. Has to have been covered more times than a Kardashian wedding.

You have a vacuum leak.

Definitely fire.

Cheapy eBay scan tool will only read ECU. Proper mechanics' scan tool will interrogate every CU in the car. Steering sensor is #1 likely option for HICAS fault, but there are plenty of other options and every time we point someone to the usual answer we later find out that something hideously stupid had been done to the car and no-one could have ever guessed what the real fault would turn out to be.

Also, after you remove the HICAS CU, don't be surprised when a whole bunch of stuff goes wrong.

Take it to a mechanic. Put a scan tool on it. Find out if there are any sensor problems on the engine. Also interrogate the HICAS CU and find out what it is upset about.

Too much toe out. Possibly just something (a bush) completely f**ked, allowing the wheels to flail around wherever they like when loaded in corners. Might sit straight on a wheel aligner, but drive to toe out while moving forward or cornering.

Search for the answers to these questions. There have been posts on both topics in just the last 2 months. Multiple.

No, you got it right. Your settings are just about identical to mine. Profec B on Neo stock turbo. 12 psi.

Actually, I dun f**ked up. But only because I don't care which terminal is which number. I mixed up the switched side and the coil side. Look at the below image.... Power to run the load (the horn) actually goes in through T30. T87 is the output to the horn. T85 Now, you could do either of the following (but not both). 1) You could swap the connections I described in the underlined text to be the other way around if you wanted to. It would still work. Those terminals just get joined together when the relay's coil is powered. or 2) You could put the same power supply onto both T30 and T86 (using a wire that connects them both outside the relay AND to the power source of choice). Then the horn button (and its earth) get connected to T85. It is usually important to put the activation power onto the right terminal (that would be 12V onto T86) because they often have a diode in them to stop back voltage spikes when the relay is opened (ie, when you turn it off).

Um....it's not 1975 any more. There is no perceptible delay on international calls, regardless of whether you use a landline, a mobile, skype on your computer or a payphone. Hell, I routinely dial into 20 way phone conferences based in places like Minnesota from my home phone, mobile or computer, from motels and airports on wi-fi and all other sorts of crap, and there's not enough delay to cause any angst.

NO! It does not fu(king matter whether you have the switched side going in or out of either 85 and 86. They are BOTH just terminals that are connected together inside the relay when you power the coil. What matters is that you put battery power into one of them, and the connect the horn button (and therefore the EARTH on the other side of the button) to the other switched terminal. The earth is provided by the horn button being pushed, closing its switch and connecting to earth. The power flows to that earth through the relay from the other side of the relay's switched terminals. I have just rephrased what I have posted before, and what Kiwi posted. Same same. Not rocket surgery.

It's not a closed loop boost controller, therefore you CANNOT make the setpoint a psi target. The main setting is basically the duty cycle of the solenoid. The bigger the number, the more it is bleeding off and the higher the boost will go. When you get to 100, it cannot bleed any more and whatever boost you have achieved is all you will get. Of course,the boost may stop rising or the turbo may overspeed and die before you get to 100 anyway. The gain (set gain) is for trimming the main control result to eliminate droops or spikes.

^ What he said. Follow Dose Pipe's advice - 3/4 is not a diameter or a length. It is 3/4 of full length injectors. The same basic injector is usually available in 1/2, 3/4 and full length. Also, I have pointed you at injectorsonline.com for a good reason. Read the info attached to each injector on offer there for Neos.....