GTSBoy

The "module" in the back is a noise suppressor unit. So, it's just going to be a capacitor (at best guess). The fault is probably in there, if it is a big ol' electro cap, it's probably popped its load all over the insides of the box. Here's the wiring diagram. It's not rocket surgery to work out where the pixies come from and where they flow to. Put 12V direct onto the hot side of the demister bars and see if they get warm. Looks like the switch's lamp is back fed off the output that comes out of the switch and goes to the back of the car.

Yuh, no fun trying to do all that with the plenum on. Even from below it is a complete bear.

The effort spent on forcing it to work with carbs would certainly be better spent just putting an EFI pump and some fuel line into the car. Seriously. If you really would prefer to go carb, and you are happy to have a single air feed to however many carbs (be that 1, 2 or 3) then all you need to do is put the AFM into the air inlet and just run the ECU. The ECU will run the sparks and will try to run the injectors, but as there will be no injectors and fuel will automagically find its way into the engine via the vintage tech, you will no doubt get combustion and power. There will be hassles. The ECU will be expecting a TPS signal it can work with for idle, and it will be wanting to do idle speed control via IACV and also messing with the timing - and guessing that you won't have an IACV, it will definitely end up screwing with the timing. As I said, going EFI would be easier. If you can go further afield than using a (Nistuned) original ECU then you could use an aftermarket ECU that can run off MAP and you won't need the AFM and you might find it easier to side-step some of the idle hassles, etc.

Yes it will. Especially seeing as it's only G2. The bigger ones really want bigger inlet pipes, but the little one will survive with 3".

Yeah, we should ban him! /pitchfork!

Should be same enough as this tuff, no? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Skyline-R32-Gtst-Power-Steering-Hoses/113696173795?hash=item1a78d1eee3:g:zo4AAOSwq4xclw00

Actually, less resolution. More range, yes, but less resolution.

No, that's bad. The Z32 sized pipe that is. See the bit where the AFM blade mounts? You can buy just that bit (like the one from NZEFI). Weld it onto some 4" pipe. Then you have a 4" inlet to your turbo, not the pissy little 3" inlet (which is what a Z32 is). You will surprised how much better that is. If you have the standard airbox, you will just have to make a bigger hole and work out how to securely connect the 4" pipe to it. Keep in mind that if you are buying using US $, then your money is worth a lot more than the Pacific Pesos (which also use the $ sign) on the NZEFI site.

Don't put a Z32 into it. Buy an R35 (or other similar blade style sensor) and an adapter and fit it into a 4" inlet pipe to suit your Hypergear. Look at the Nistune site & forums for some guidance. Get some 1000cc Bosch EV14 based injectors & max out the turbo (or max out your fuel pump perhaps).

Good stuff. Pretty much a waste of time trying without upgrading the AFM and injectors. You can make that much power on stock turbo. Spend more money, soon.

First up, the R chassis cars have upper and lower control arms. The S chassis cars are MacPherson strut, so don't have an upper arm. That's a pretty big difference. The R chassis cars therefore also have a completely different hub/upright part. R32 & R33 are not the same. The R32 upper arm was a brave try by Nissan, but ultimately a bad design. The R33 improved on that by making the chassis end of the arm a true wishbone. Not possible to switch these between cars without major chassis surgery. There is some scope to move crossmembers and lower arms between the R and S chassis cars, but only because of drift driven desperation. This has all been very thoroughly documented on the net for many many years now, so search if you want to know what can be done. S14 & S15 are mostly the same stuff. Most significant would be the FUCAs.

You talking speed sensor? Not that it matters, because the answer would be no regardless of which one you meant.

'Snot that simple. Rear rotors are only 18-20mm thick (or whatever they are). Front rotors are 30-32mm thick (depending on which front brakes from which car). You can't make the front calipers work on rotors as thin as the rears. So now you need custom rotors, and teh handbrake is in the rotor hub, so that throws another spanner into it. In reality, the front calipers also have about 3 times too much piston area, if even you put man brakes on the front. The rear brakes are already a bit too aggressive on R32s as is. If you want 4 pots on the rear, then you're going to need calipers with only a little more piston area than the original 2 pots, that will happily sit on the skinny rotor.

Um....what makes you think that the MFD runs from the ECU? I would have thought that the MFD would be its own thing and just pick up the data that it needs from the various CUs on the serial bus.

It's Steve. No. It's Alan. No, it's Steve.

Yuh, that's my point. 3 injector drivers, 3 coil drivers. These are in pairs, so the chances of getting them wrong between near identical engines is really small. It's firing the opposite cylinders at the same time, every revolution of the engine. Just wire it up. If it fires, you got it right. If it doesn't, there's only 2 more permutations of connections to try.

There is only one set of specs on the wikipedia page for RB25DET Neo. Hardly matters. All RB25s have the same bore and stroke anyway.

Auto ECU gives no fark for presence or absence of auto TCU, especially once you Nistune it and can f**k off any codes you don't want to see.

Given that those shitty old things are batch fire injection and wasted spark only (on 6 cylinders), I would have thought you'd have precious little chance of getting it wrong. Just send it.

ebay, JustJap, Nengun, Kudos, Amayama. There's more, of course. Just this lot off the top of my head.

Yup. Donuts are stupid. Lots of power made, no airflow over your cooler.

You have a broken wire or a short of some sort. Break out the wiring diagram and chase the circuits that involve the ignition and the knock sensor and see where the power and earths and common points are. If you cannot manage that - take it to an auto eleccy now.

Pretty sure Subie calipers have different ear spacing.

FFS! It's your thread!