GTSBoy

But.... I am not suggesting that you hook up all 3 terminals of the pot to the wiring of that plug. You need to know which 2 wires off the loom plug that you need to put the resistor on.

Yeah. You use one end terminal and the middle. The middle is attached to the wiper. The end terminals are attached to each end of the resistor.

Air bag should not go off at zero speed. Also, anyone who designs a safety system such that an explosive part of that system will go off when a peripheral sensor is not functioning properly needs to be kicked in the nuts. Right now, you have no resistor = open circuit = light on. Wire in 10k pot set to 10k ohms - should be much higher than the threshold value I would expect to "close" the circuit. But if you're paranoid, you could go all the way to 20 or 50k as a starting point. Work your way down until the light goes out. If it turns out to be less than 1k, then probably better to experiment with a 1k pot, just to get a better guesstimate of the resistance required. 10k pots are a bit coarse. Oh, and use linear pots too, not logarithmic. I would expect the target resistance to be a nice number like 500 ohms, or 2k or 5k. We use 2k & 5k a lot in industrial sensor loops to represent a working loop.

Standard Nissan FP is ~43 psi. So, no you know that it is not standard.....what next?

Buy 1k and 10k pots and have a twiddle. When it goes off, measure with multimeter and replace with fixed resistor to same value.

You could google the part number on the Weber item and find out if it is a reg or a dampener. You could follow the fuel lines from the supply (the filter attached to the tower is the supply) and up through the various items, including the fuel rail and map out what devices are where, in what order. and what is supplied with a vacuum line, and work it all out for yourself.

No. The roar from a blown manifold gasket will be SUPER annoying long before ANY gauge can show you anything.

Same box.

Riddle me this. How much air do you think can come out of the leak compared to how much the turbo can pump? Enough to drop 1 psi? 2? How much 'til you notice? You would hear it looooong before you saw it on a boost guage.

Well, the reg down between the strut and the manifold is clearly not standard. As to the other one....seeing as I can barely see anything in your photo because you were standing on the other side of the country from your engine bay when you took it.....it is more than likely the stock pulsation dampener that sits on the rail.

It's the same small body gearbox as the RB20DET. Can't remember the codes for sure, but I think it's RP71C. There is supposed to be a 1 or a 2 after that, with 2 meaning twin synchro, which I think were the later ones.

No it wouldn't. Gap would have to be MASSIVE to let that much air out.

That's why I did not put any aftermarket gauges into my car that were already on the dash. Well, except the boost gauge, and I probably should swap that out for something else. EGT, Oil T, & boost, in the centre console. 3x 52mm panel. Works and does not crowd the place out.

Yeah, nah. Coolant temp is not an indicator of EGTs. You need a pyro or 6 installed to see that.

Hydraulic problem. Not getting enough movement at the final element in the chain.

You are going to be looking for no power where you should have power, no earth where you should have earth, no switching from OFF to ON when you should be having such switching (ie relay testing), etc etc.

Electrical fault finding without a multi-meter is TFH. They are <$10 @ Jaycar. Do yourself a favour.

Well, it is "just" an R200. But it is an aftermarket mechanical centre and I'm not sure which brand or model.

Why would you want to do this?

What do you mean you "shimmed it"? Did you just arbitrarily jam shims in between the outside of the centre and the axle bearings? If so, don't. You will f**k it. That is a mechanical LSD. Can't really tell if it is 1-way, 1.5-way or 2-way, because you did not show a good photo of the cams (visible in the round openings in the side of the centre's casing). You do not "shim" them. In fact you shouldn't "shim" a VLSD either, but let's not have that argument. The tightness of that LSD is set up INSIDE the centre. Not outside.

Cold oil: Oil flows straight through sandwich plate, via hoses to&from the filter. Hot oil: Sandwich plate thermostat opens. Unfiltered oil goes out to the cooler and back to the sandwich plate, then on to the filter & back. Your diagram looks correct.

Selling it on to someone? :p

Do you mean "loose in the slider"? Or do you mean "loose in some other random part of the frame where it might be able to be tightened up by looking for fasteners and applying a socket"?

Well, actually, you can get a rod&piston out with the crank still in. But getting the sump off a GTR in car is not a pleasant exercise. Pleasantness issues aside, the pure silliness of attempting to hone just one cylinder in an RB26 in situ rather than doing the job properly still needs to be stressed. Either do it properly or sell it on to someone who will.

To what? If it doesn't blow coolant out the cap or overflow bottle, then it is not boiling and it is still working. Thermostat on the Neo is set to ~90°, runs there all the time. Air-con on in 38° traffic the other day saw my oil temperature running over 110°C (and my oil temp is usually exactly the same as my coolant temp) and I just kept driving and no engines were damaged.