GTSBoy

95 is not overheating.

Nononnonnnonnononononononono. Engine out. Build it properly.

You are just talking about changing the centre right? And you are aware that the crownwheel and pinion get moved from your old diff to the new centre, right? And the bearings are the same, and the stub axles are the same? And the only real difference is that if you have a viscous diff (that of course won't work at 600HP) the only real difference is the quality/type of LSD centre that you put in there? Ergo, choose from Cusco, Kaaz, Nismo, or even various others. They all have multiple different sorts available. 1-way for easy street driving. 1.5 way for mostly street and tough hills runs or a bit of track. 2-way for a track bruiser. And beyond that, some are adjustable in varying ways, some use higher tech internals. You'll need to read up on the many options then decide.

Almost sounds like you still have the factory solenoid in line. Standard that does 5psi bled up to 7. With another boost tee in line, set to 7, that would probably do 7 up to 10. You damn sure you disconnected it?

Anything with a 2mm decrease in base circle diameter is going to clear up to ~10.8mm, obviously enough. Why would it not? Arithmetic is all you need to sort that out.

Doesn't have to be specifically "Consult". Any workshop with a Snap-On or equivalent diagnostic handset should be able to do it. I threw my bro-in-law's diag unit* on my car and saw the ECU, TCU and HICAS computer all available. That was 20 years ago before the auto tranny fell out of it. * Can't remember the brand.

You need to get a proper scan tool hooked up to the diag port and see what the ABS CU has to say for itself.

You shouldn't even try to run these engines on 91 RON fuel, even on 6 psi. You may well have pinged the thing to death and no have lots of damage on top of your pistons making hot spots and making it more prone to pinging. Nevertheless, this is the standard "my car is missing" type of question and so all the standard answers that have been rolled out millions of time before apply. Ignition system, AFM, CAS, etc, etc etc. All possible. Internet diagnosis is impossible.

I'm pretty sure that that Nolathane kit has the equivalent of pineapples already (plus the main bush replacements). I strongly suggest that if this bush kit has been installed and the back of the car feels like it is flailing around, then something else is wrong (or the kit/subframe has been installed incorrectly).

They wear and they are rebuildable. And the other place out there that you don't want to hear about slop is the splines.....

Defo the pump.

Watch the double unicorn series on MCMTV2. They did this swap a couple of years ago. You will learn a lot.

Best thing is pull coil plugs off while it is misfiring on the dyno. You won't find it at idle. If you can make it misfire a bit and then shut it off while it's doing it, you might be able to inspect the plugs and see some difference. Might, but very far from probably. What are your plug gaps now? What boost is is breaking down at? What is the condition of the coil harness?

Firstly, no-one still uses Nolathane anything. I'm not saying that they are outright inferior with respect to how much additional stiffness they will add around your subframe when freshly installed....but everyone else moved on to SuperPro and other options about 20 years ago. Secondly, if you have old f**ked out bushes and other bushes etc (the outer ends of the HICAS tie rods are a known death spot) in the rear end, trying to bandaid the subframe location won't do a lot. Solid (alloy) collars are more effective, if pretty harsh. You haven't mentioned wheel alignment settings, ride height, or even which chassis we're talking about. If it's an R32, a lot of flailing around can be expected. if an R34, we'd expect less (due to the improvements in the rear geometry between the two).

Welcome. You don't need all that fuel pump capacity for the power level that a Z32 can support. You will simply overheat the fuel as it goes round and round. Consider dropping at least one of the 044s out of use.

Jesus Christ! Stay away from Autobahn and whatever the hell a "regen" is....if that's what they think will "fix" it.

Throttle motor sensor is NOT anything to do with the TPS. It is to do with the traction control throttle's position sensor. You will get that code (in the ECU) if the TCS system is not working (is, if the TCS computer is not present, or the TCS throttle is broken in some way). We don't make TPS sensors work with Q45 throttles on NEOs, because, um, we don't change the TB. Why would we? The stocker is big enough for everything.

Good result. Another entry in the "it'll be coils before it'll be something else" file. Surprise finding on the launch control. Looking at the video (just now), it does sound & behave very much more like a deliberate misfire (ie launch control) than a shitty coil misfire. There's nothing better than having 2 things going on at the same time to confound your diagnosis.

Fronts fit (but look wrong). Rears won't fit without a fight.

All these questions have searchable answers on here already. Some as recent as last week.

Everyone here knows RHDJapan. They're good. You also want to look at Nengun, Amayama and even JustJap.

Need to specify "at the engine" or "at the wheels", otherwise these misunderstandings will happen.

Half of this is true, the other half is not completely true. Splitfires are decent. Anything cheap that is "similar" are not decent. Stay away from yellow coils, red coils, any other colour other than the proper Splitfire blue (there are bodgy blue copies out there too) and original OEM black. But not any cheap black. Only the proper original Nissan part. But don't do anything to the coils unless you start to get ignition breakdown. That might happen if you get the boost up to 10 psi. But just getting the boost up to 10 on an R33 stock ECU means you'll be using twice as much fuel and it will be as slow as crap (considering the fuel consumption) and so you won't want to drive it anyway.

Why is it overkill to go straight for Splitfire? They are the only option other than the original coils, for coils that are the same form factor. Yaris coils (or any other similar Toyota Denso coil) are good, but not a lot stronger than Splitfires. If you can get them for <$90 each, then they make a reasonable upgrade, but you still need to mount them and adapt the wiring. There are links in the trader section here for kits using Audi & R35 GTR coils that are even better options, but generally at quite a lot more $$ than Splitfires. 2nd hand coils are a lottery.

Just the fact that they are red means throw them as far away from the car as you can and don't go looking for them They are more shit than a pile of shit.