GTSBoy

Harness is cheaper. Coils are more likely. Take your pick.

How is that going to help him? It won't help at all. R33 ECU will just drop a shitstain and it won't run.

As I said, GTR diff has very different input and output connections. You change your tailshaft and you change driveshafts. Essentially you will want/need an R33 GTR rear end to rat the stuff out of it.

I'm not sure why you would want it. It lets more air under the car, which is not desirable (aerodynamically). If it's just for looks...... Note, I have seen that lip around before. It is essentially just the same as the stocker, with that bit missing in the middle. I've never cared to know who makes it, because of what I said above.

The front diffs for all the AWDs should be the same. They are not LSD - they're all open, F160 (I think it's 160) type. The GTR rear diff is, of course, quite different to the other cars'. CV joint input on the rear end of the tailshaft. Larger axle diameter with more splines + proper 6 bolt flanges. It's a pain in the arse to use GTR diffs in other cars because of the other things you have to change. The only reason to do so is if you have very good reasons (cheap access to the stuff you need, particular diff centre you want is only available for GTr type, etc etc). Otherwise, it's often better to just keep the original R200 housing and put in the mech/other centre you need/want. That is unless the original diff was from an NA or something and only had 3x2 flanges. Nothing wrong with those diffs/housings/stub axles/flanges. It's just the tripod CVs on them that are not as robust/good as the ones on the 5 bolt driveshafts.

I don't think so.

Take it to a mechanic and get it diagnosed.

The consensus is that the best front diff is Quaiffe and the best rear diff is either another Quaiffe (for a streeter) or a Nismo pro. There are always votes for the other brands, as per Steve above, and they are valid. But I have a soft spot for how nicely helical diffs drive compared to tight mechanicals.

Not bulging, no. We're talking about ball bearings here. You'd be looking for grindy noises, slop between races, crunchy feel, etc.

R35 coils are actually not that much more exxy than Yaris/et al in themselves. It's the kit that winds the cost up.

f**ked bearings, broken keyways, loose came pulley bolts, etc.

eBay.

They could have at least turned the front wheels to the right to make it look like it might have been capable of powersliding that corner.

Cams can't smack on the rocker cover. That's not possible. They rotate through 360° in there as normal business. The actual risk of taking the timing arrangement apart and not putting it back together correctly is that you will strike open valves with rising pistons and trash at least part of the motor. This is not to be contemplated if you do not know how to keep it all together in the right places as you take it apart and put it back together. I wasn't talking about thoroughly dismantling the timing arrangement though. Just about pulling the CAS off (and then maybe the upper timing cover too for a better look). And yes, the CAS needs to go back exactly where it came from, or you need a timing light to be able to reset it.

It's engine out to change the front diff. Just sayin'.....

The C-HR is no picnic to look at either. Another f**king clown car.

CAS drive is now your #1 suspect. Time to take it apart.

I told you why. Almost always for drag. Turbo cars on the road are almost always better with taller diff ratios.

I must say, I am still constantly surprised that there are people who think the R33 looks the best. I didn't think there was anyone who actually liked them.

If it were mine, I'd pitch the "uprated" ignitor along with the coils and just go Yaris (or any similar Denso) coil - so long as I was willing to go without the coil cover.....or just space the coil cover up perhaps. Or, if I were a bit more flush for cash, the R35 coil kit is the smartest move.

Can't tell if it's mechanical or an exhaust manifold leak from the video. Use a hose as a stethoscope to listen around the exhaust manifold and turbo gaskets. If not there, use same hose, or a screwdriver as stethoscope to listen around cam covers, timing cover, etc, to see if you can localise it. It could be worn tappets causing valve noise, or it could be your VCT solenoid or belt tensioner up the shit, or a number of other random possibilities.

Just run the rear pump stage through a power steering oil cooler out the front of the car and back to the header tank. Free win.

No, this is the Juke RS, not the Juke R (which was the GTR in a clown suit). I'd be sure that for the same money as a GTI (what they're claiming in that shitty article), you're only getting the asthmatic 4banger DI turbo with the boost wound up. This is just the clown suit, without the GTR parts.

You are warped. The R34 looks like a Skyline. The R33, barely so.

The thing is, he has the 4.1 ratio in the engine, and that is the harder one to change. Makes sense to keep that and put a new 4.1 centre in the rear, no?