GTSBoy

Aren't they all 2nd hand imports everywhere except Japan?

I wonder if the exhaust temp sensor is disconnected. https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473002-rb25-shuts-off-when-idling/?tab=comments#comment-7892471

Read the extra text at the bottom of the GK-Tech product pages, because there are things down there that you need to know (about what bits work with what). You will probably also have to e-mail them to ask about the replacement bushes, because I can't see them on the site.

Don't buy the Whiteline HICAS lockout bar. It, and all similar lockouts, do still require the original HICAS tie rods and tie rod end joints, which obviously need to be in good condition for it to work properly. If yours are stuffed, it will be no bueno. The smart way to deal with this (assuming you're happy to delete HICAS) is to buy a "HICAS delete kit". There are various of these available. GK-Tech are an example. Some kits literally come as a kit, with everything you need (ie, a bar, new tie-rod end equivalents, new joints to replace the HICAS ball joints). The GK-Tech kit is available in pieces. You buy the bits you need (delete bar, toe arms). The joints at the outer end of the HICAS tie rods are ball joints. They are pressed into the steering arm on the knuckle and are a pain in the arse to get out. Sometimes they just push out. Other times lots of heat and even angle grinders are needed. The ball joints need to come out and be replaced with a conventional bush (such as would be found on non-HICAS rear ends) for any of the delete kits to fit. Otherwise, if you want to keep HICAS, you just need to buy the HICAS ball joints and go through he struggle of changing them over. My earnest opinion is that HICAS sucks and getting rid of it is the first choice. I did it so thoroughly that I replaced the rear subframe with a non-HICAS one. That was before these delete kits became available though. If I was doing it now, I'd probably just use a delete kit.

I have to plead a little ignorance of what should have been on your car in its original state.....but it is my gut feeling that the NA auto R34s had the speed sender on the diff nose, not the gearbox. I might be wrong, but it is something to consider. The RB25DET's manual gearbox speedo sender creates a +/- 1V signal (essentially an AC voltage), the frequency of which varies with speed. The speedo head reads this and converts it to the 0-5V square wave PWM signal that gets put out onto the speed signal bus (which goes to the ECU/TCU, the ABS/TCS & HICAS CU). All of those CUs are only receivers on the speed signal bus. None of them create the speed signal. Any one of them can be missing completely and the speed signal should still be available. So long as the speedo head is still doing its job. The only wires you have to worry about are the 2 wires that run from the speed sender to the speedo. There is no power (car battery 12V, no earth) involved. Just the connection between sender and speedo. of course, the speedo is separately powered off the dash. It is just possible that the diff mounted speed senders create a different type/quality signal from the gearbox ones and that might explain the speedo head's inability to read it. There are other alternatives. The speed signal might be good, the speedo might be good (in terms of receiving the original speed signal and transmitting the square wave version out on the bus.....but the head might have simply died as a coincidence. Unlikely -- coincidences are to be suspected. But possible. A worthwhile test will be to put a scan tool onto the car and take it for a drive. See if the speed signal is visible from the ECU.

Anyone claiming that HICAS only improves their car control on a (let's assume fast country or hills) drive is not driving hard enough to understand the point. Those (above) who have backed me up and described how HICAS is frightening when you are really, really up it can do so because they have experienced it. Bakemono.....when you say "and enjoy HICAS", you really mean "enjoy ATESSA". Using the GTR's RWD biased AWD to conquer oversteer is not the same as having HICAS wiggle the rear wheels around because it's got no idea what it is doing.

Probably should anyway. They are old. One died on my R32 last year, causing a reasonable fuel leak.

WTF has that got to do with HICAS? Do you actually know what HICAS is supposed to do? It's not a traction control. HICAS is supposed to move the rear wheels to invoke a slip angle earlier than would occur under passive drag along of the rears (caused by the front's making the car start to rotate). It is supposed to make it feel "snappier" on turn in. Whoch it does, as long as you're not on the verge of losing grip. Now, that "as long as" is fine, up to about 7/10ths. After that, as you drive harder, especially as you push right up near the limits, the rear will be on the verge of breaking free and a skilled driver will be working to balance the steering and throttle inputs to control that. The last thing a skilled driver wants is for some 3pt IQ computer system to be raggedly sawing away at the rear steering control trying to do what it does, because it actively fights against what the drive is trying to do. It is a shit system. Even worse, all you have to do to make a Skyline turn in better than it does with HICAS is simply upgrade all the suspension - which we all do anyway. Some bigger ARBs, better dampers, some bushes and a decent alignment are 50x better than HICAS. So, please consider that set of facts.

Oh f**k. It's always something stupid and unexpected.

Everyone who actually tries to drive the car above 9/10ths removes HICAS, because its design intention is to make the car feel "sporty" at 7/10ths, but when you push to the limit it starts to fight the driver for control. 1990's computers/codes not up to the task. Do not want.

Toyota/Lexus design language has been getting progressively more stupid. Same with Honda (Civic in particular). Massive wafflebox black plastic that looks like air flow path but is actually closed. Ugly Predator mouths on the front and rear. I scraped a hire Camry's front bumper on the lower left side because it is at least 150mm wider down there than it needs to be. But having made that complaint, the rest of the car's design isn't vile. The shapes involved in the bonnet, wheel openings, the style lines (such as they are) down the sides, are a whole lot less immature and stupid than most Korean an Euro-trash models at the moment. And when I say "less immature and stupid" - that Camry actually looks good in all those areas.

Well, you wouldn't rebuild one out of the four. And rebuilding 4x Teins is going to cost a fair chunk of buying new. If it were me, I would bin the whole lot and just put in $2k worth of MCAs.

Something something something can't put in an older engine than the chassis.

But will it be legal?

That's when they do it. There is NO reason why you should need to gap down plugs at low boost. I run 12 psi on a Neo at 1.1mm on Splitfire coils.

No, go f**k yourself. 38 posts in and you're already a total f**king wanker. The search function works. The forum is >20 years old. The answers are all there. Oh, and the uneducated people you are raging against are anything but.

It'll be ignition. Plugs, or more likely, coilpacks.

Basically the same to sit in. Basically the same to look at. Certainly more similar than a 32 would be, from where he's coming from.

Um no. Just no. Wrong. Nothing to with "restriction" or creating oil pressure. They are a heat exchanger. Only a heat exchanger. Nothing more. They are for bringing the oil up to temperature faster (largely for emissions) and for moderating the worst of high oil temperatures. That's all. Your ideas about pressure are, odd, to say the least. I'm not going to google it for you, but there would have to be at least 50 mentions of the thread size and pitch on these very forums alone.

Those arseholes in their bro-'dozers can all go and get f**ked too.

Clearly driven by a 'tard. The extensive earthing installation in the engine bay is testament to that. If not wovr, then almost certainly not insured. If not insured, then probably bought with money with difficult to explain provenance.

Impossible to say. Need to take it apart. If it's only knocking because it's done a bearing, then it should be fine. If bits of bearing shell have somehow gotten out and run around the engine, it might be fine, or they might have done some damage as they went. Said damage might be fatal, or it might be repairable. If there was a lot of solid objects running around inside, then it's probably f**ked.

If all the f**king flatbrimmers get out of the scene, it will be a good thing.

Let them "win" the thread. It was started in 2003 FFS!

I second the above statements. I would, however, caution that the behaviour you describe does sound like it might have something to do with the installation of the external pipework.. Not swearing by it, just suggesting it - if it didn't used to happen and is only doing it since. Perhaps take the sandwich plate off and put the filter direct back onto the engine. See if the problem goes away or stays. See recent thread by Dose Pipe where similar shenanigans are reported. The electrical problem possibility is also strong. Take the dash out and check the happiness of the various connectors on the back. Wiggle the instruments' fuse in the fusebox.