GTSBoy

That's a pretty sharp edge! I almost think it should have Testarossa strakes in it to give it that full on early 90s look! I look forward to seeing it with some paint.

Those fireproof sleeves are pretty bloody good. If you can get any other more primary heat shield in there (even just the coating) it should be survivable. If you want to exercise paranoia, you could slip a thermocouple in there with the loom at the likely hottest spot and see what it gets up to. If you're comfortable, then leave it like that. If not comfortable, then you plan to reroute the loom.

Many people will have had the same problem. Either the knock is real, or it is imaginary. If imaginary, then it is the knock sensor or the PFC having delusions. If real, it will be caused by one of a whole range of possible causes and no-one out here will be able to tell you which; Faulty/dirty injector causing a lean cylinder, Faulty coil/igniter firing early. Possible, but not real likely. Oil blowby coming around in the intake and ruining the octane rating of the fuel. Something hot/damaged/sharp in a cylinder causing a detonation initiation point. Adding to the list after remember that I forgot to put some stuff on.... CAS maladjustment Belt skipped a tooth Something weird with the belt tensioner

It's got to come down to the shop that did the compliance. Different states, etc etc, yada yada. The cars don't cross borders east-west that often.

Yes. HCR32. As I said, I've never seen a 4 seat complied R32.

Well, with TCS & slip lights on, it would suggest that you have a problem with the TCS. So a wheel speed sensor, or the TCS throttle position sensor, or similar. So, take it to a mechanic and put a proper scan tool on it so you can read the codes in that CU.

If it's fixed, the light should go away after 10 starts or something anyway.

Any heat shield + slip on insulation over the loom.

Mine has 3 belts across the back. 5 seater. I've never seen one without.

I would have thought that this would be impossible.

Just connect the line from the turbo outlet direct to the actuator and see if you get ~6-7psi.

I didn't say "the" front panel. I just said that front panels should be in demand, in response to previous poster's "see what they produce next". As to block metallurgy......I would not hold my breath. It's not as if the cast material they were using had any problems. The design, on the other hand, is where the block is weak, and the design is what they really won't change.

Yeah, you're right. I started out on message and somehow confused myself into thinking we were talking about a GTR. But apart from the hose clamp on the top vac line being a zip tie, so long as that line goes to the solenoid and then from the solenoid back to the turbo inlet, it would be plumbed up according to how it should work. I must admit I have not paid any attention to what the standard boost plumbing on a Neo looks like, because I don't think I've ever seen one! First thing that gets changed, normally. There weren't even any such lines on my engine when I bought it.

Nissan did it so that they could have less boost in 1st gear, or below certain rpm thresholds.

I think he means that it looks like a brake or clutch line, not part of the engine and that if it is a brake line, you will have a rude surprise at the end of your driveway.

Well......that's not quite true. The N1 block has been in production this whole time, and is not actually any different to the standard block. So this new "release" block is really just the same thing. They are making heads too. But they aren't making "engines". Yo uwon't be able to buy a newly made crate engine. Just the 2 main parts.

Um, no. The bleed valve is STOCK. That's how you get stock boost. But in order for it to be stock stock boost, and not the "ahem, secret squirrel stock boost that Mr Nissan actually wanted the cars to have but the gentlemen's agreement limiting them to 206kW meant they had to cripple it stock boost", it also has to have the little restrictor that they hid inside one of the vacuum hoses. That is usually the first thing that any GTR owner found and removed, because it gave back the power the car was meant to have but wasn't "allowed" to. Nothing you see in those photos is not as per Mr. Nissan's design, except the possible absence of that restrictor.

All bleed valves are restrictor based. You need a restriction to give the controlled bleed amount. Solenoid valves in these systems are either simple on-off (Nissan stockers are this) and they change between no bleed and bleed through the restrictor, or pulse controlled, making the solenoid a variable restriction in its own right and therefore the restrictor in the bleed. This all ignores what happens with multiport solenoids and multi-solenoid setups.

Got the manual?

The standard mod for standard GTRs was to remove a little restrictor from one of the boost hoses. Instant 14 psi IIRC. Shouldn't qualify as "overboost" but should be enough to max the gauge. It's also easily enough boost to show up a weak ignition system.

What this actually means is that 8 out of 10 people who attempt it will f**k it up and end up posting for help!

You buy it from.......Subaru. Walk up to the parts counter. It is literally called what I typed in my post. Subaru Upper Engine Cleaner.

Subaru Upper Engine Cleaner is actually a fairly good thing. A few points.... 1. Do not contemplate spraying these cleaners in pre-turbo. It will be a waste (of expensive product). 2. The method is to get the car warm, then stop it and spray half a can into the inlet manifold through a convenient port. If you have more than one convenient port, &/or really need to clean something like the IACV, then spray some in through wherever you can get to. You wait some minutes. Then you start the car and it may not want to run real well so you have to nurse it on the throttle, while spraying the remainder of the can in through a vac port into the inlet manifold. Keep it running at elevated revs until it stops spewing smoke out the exhaust. Subarus really benefit from it. It's standard practice at Subie dealers at services. I've done it a few times on the Skyline, because it actually can't hurt. It's solvent/detergent action to clean varnish and sludgy carbon, which I have seen it do a reasonably good job of. Anything upstream of the throttle, including the throttle itself, can be cleaned manually.

NP

I had to resync the dell'Ortos on my Alfa every couple of weeks. Between that and a box full of jets and emulsion tubes, I for one embrace our computer overlords and the ease they bring to tuning shit up.