
GTSBoy
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Everything posted by GTSBoy
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I've been having fun lately poking the enviro-bears. They piss and moan about the price of petrol, then I calmly tell them, that in my higher-than-average-fuel-consuming-vehicle-that-only-runs-on-the-most-expensive-variant-of-pump-fuel-owner's opinion, petrol should have been at least $3/litre for the last 5 years and probably should be about $5 now..... to force people to reconsider their fuel consumption decisions. Then they blow up at me for being stupid. Power prices too high? Let them stay high until all the fossil fuel heated generators are shut down. Then have a discussion about why they're charging for power generated from (recent) sunlight (instead of ancient sunlight). But in the meantime....surely high power prices are a market signal to reduce your usage. We're facing the same problems with vehicle fuel consumption as we're seeing in power consumption as we see in computer power (processing power in this case). Because the things get a little better at it, we just allow inefficiency to flourish. The entire sound track for a C64 game (can't remember if it was Mega Apocalypse, or Crazy Comets) was done in like 4KB of memory, including speech synthesis. These days you can't even get a single gif squeezed into 4 fricken' KB.
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I've always wondered how the various Indians you see driving this Chinese shit manage to balance their national hatred of the Chinese with their inability to not buy the cheapest, flashiest looking thing on the market. It must cause massive internal tension. And MG's are actually the nest of the bunch. They've had longer to drag themselves up from the quality basement. They're now on the first landing below ground level. Ozito tools rationale, as applied to the newest form of disposable appliance. The motor car.
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Hopefully it's just one of the early nails in the coffin of those horrendous shitboxen.
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Yeah, "blueprinted" does not mean "built" (in the common usage of "built" where that means "built tough with forgies and so on"). Blueprinted just means that when it was assembled the bearing clearances and other tolerances were all made to be right in the middle of the range given in the engine manual. Or otherwise to some exact specific value liked/used by the builder or someone else with good knowledge on the best setup. It is a term that I haven't really heard used by anyone since I stopped reading Street Machine about a million years ago.
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- ecu
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ADM cars had diff coolers and a few other things that would leave traces that you'd have to clean up.
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Not too bad. Horrible compared to non-twinscroll options available, but not as much as genuine. So....workable. Probably still smarter to convert manifold to T4.
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These are far from the same thing. They are, in fact, about as far apart, in this context, as it is possible to be.
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Ah, yes. I forgot that part. At this point I would concur with the earlier suggestion of having the manifold modded to get a T4 TS flange put on. I don't think there is a T3 TS housing option for these. On top of that, there is the whole problem of what is your expectation for a wastegate?
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Is this not the answer? https://www.pulsarturbo.com.au/collections/turbo-housings/products/pulsar-g-series-turbine-housings?variant=41626651033750
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Nismo 1.5 way Stub axle issue
GTSBoy replied to OO Dan OO's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Or had the living shit beaten out of it trying to drive the stub axle in.... -
0.82 is good.
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Nismo 1.5 way Stub axle issue
GTSBoy replied to OO Dan OO's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Yeah, but surely no-one could hold either of the possible diffs in hand and mistake one for the other. -
Nismo 1.5 way Stub axle issue
GTSBoy replied to OO Dan OO's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
No. Not normal. Mech LSD should turn the left wheel forwards when you turn the right wheel forwards. Open diff does the reverse. If the opposite wheel does not turn at all, I cannot explain what you're experiencing. Something must be f**ked. -
None of the above. G30 660. Call it done. Or, BW EFR, or one of the other similar modern options. In the BWs we're talking EFR 7670 with the twinscroll turbine housing. Sorta good for 650HP at the flywheel, which should be more than enough. Broadly speaking it's equivalent to the G30 660. None of this is cheap like the OP's original options, though. The PSR3576 is also a bit larger than the new power target would suggest using. The ATR43SS3 was always a smaller choice than the PSR. 600 fly vs 750 fly. So they weren't ever comparable options. I would think the ATR43SS2 or 3 would do what is (now) wanted, especially if E85 is the path to making the target. Tao's own recco is for an SS2 on E85 for 340rwkW, which is almost exactly on target. The SS3 would have more headroom, but it really demands a 4" inlet. I would probably try Tao's reccomended turbo at <1/3 the price of the name brand stuff I suggested above.
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That video is gooooone.
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The obvious answer is +30.
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The dampener won't make any difference. And blocking the detached hose with your finger is only about eliminating the vacuum leak which will cause the idle speed to increase (which you can hear happening when you block/unblock it). But the reg? It's not doing anything at all. Nada.
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93US is 98RON. 91 is a little on the low side to try to push to 600HP, but at least you can control boost to something more conservative when you're not on the good stuff. Also, we should check. Is that 600HP at the flywheel? Or using the usual pony power yielded by US roller dynos?
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^^What he said. The fuel pressure wants to be about 43 psi with just priming, or with the engine running but the reg sense line pulled off (and plugged to stop it being a vacuum leak). It should obviously be about 13 psi less than that with the engine running and the sense line connected, because that's going to be close to manifold vacuum. So, somewhere in the 30 psi territory. 45 is PSI is too much, and very likely wrong. It is remotely possible that that is the fuel pressure it was set to when it was tuned, if you have an adjustable reg, which I couldn't see. But I suspect that it is not correct, because it was showing very similar pressure at both prime and running. It looks like the sense line is disconnected or blocked (or the reg is stuff, or something else weird). The tacho fluctuating like that is either a fault with the tacho, the wiring from the ECU, or the ECU's own output. The engine was clearly not changing speed like the tacho was.
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My R32 GTST From Canada
GTSBoy replied to CanadianGuy's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
I would never LS an R32 either. I do have truly evil thoughts about VK56s or the Toyo V12s out of New Zealand though. Very hard to justify for my daily.... -
Oh no. There's heaps. A whole lot of them are legitimately handling/installation problems. The material used in the L19 bolts is susceptible to hydrogen embrittlement and must be kept well oiled and not handled without gloves, etc etc. There have been many failures of these from people who didn't realise. There may also have been failures caused by conditions inside the engine (say, head gasket failures?) and people didn't realise that that was probably a death warrant. But that's the L19 material. The ARP 2000s are not made of the same stuff and are more forgiving. But from what I gather there have been occasions where the head has pulled off of one, and non-one can say that the installation was at fault (given good torque records), etc etc, but maybe just maybe the face of the rod shoulder where the bolt head sits wasn't actually perfectly square to the bore of the hole...and loaded up the head with a torque across it and.... ping! I've head stories of bolt heads being found in corners of workshops or in the bottom of sumps even without starting and running the engine! Trouble is, it is really hard to sort the true material failures from the handling/installation failures. It's worse than human medicine. You can only run the experiment once, and you can't run it backwards in time to look at the rod before it became a modern sculpture.
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Never mind the ash - the massive witness mark on the leading edge of the rear arch make little baby jesus cry.
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- migrate-from-302-euro-discussion
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My R32 GTST From Canada
GTSBoy replied to CanadianGuy's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
You'll need a 25 head. It's no bueno doing it with the 20 head. The bore diameter is....different. Very different. Hasn't been done in the wold since the larger bore twin cam heads became an option (ie, not since the early 90s!)