GTSBoy

I just screen grab the piece of image I want to post and paste it directly into the message compose box.

Uh.... more likely to be the other way around. But whatever.

less than or more than 9000 HP?

That arm looks to be very steeply angled upwards - I'm assuming at the ride height position. The car is very low (too low, it will NOT handle properly at that height), and I have never looked under a car that is that low to see if the arms will be at that angle. My car is at the minimum sensible ride height (~355mm eyebrow height) and my arms are much more level. It's hard to know how much bump compression would be required to make that point contact the upright - but it is fair to say that it would be less than you might imagine. Any compression is going to cause that arm to rotate even more vertically, which will close that gap faster than you would believe. I think it's just too low. Also, those arms are pretty fat right in that spot where they hit. The original arms are not as bulky there. The GK-Tech FUCAs I use are very compact at that location. So I probably wouldn't suffer the same contact even at that ride height. Things to think about.

When we all eventually convert to DBW these things will have no value.

I take it you don't have the car's wiring diagram? The Nissan ones (typically) show all wires into such plugs by colour code.

I dunno. My fuel pressure gauge is a handheld WIKA 6bar 4" dial with a couple of lengths of fuel hose and a T piece. I just install it when I need to know. On any car where I need to know.

A chaser is really just a tap. Just a less aggressive tap. It still has to be able to move metal to do its job. It may not cut the way a tap does, but it still has to push deformed threads around, and deformed threads are often a hair's breadth away from snapping off. Especially in cast aluminium alloys.

Well, try the new studs first, in case the US sourced studs are actually the problem. But given that the head is off the engine, at least it won't be too hard for someone to install helicoils if it turns out the holes are stuffed. You don't want to just run a tap or chaser through there if by doing so you leave behind 3/10ths of f**k all thread and the studs just pull straight out when you torque up the manifold nuts.

Photos. What you describe sounds impossible, given how the arms are assembled to the upright.

If you do mods that will draw more fuel, and check the fuel pressure at full load afterwards, and the pressure is still fine, then there is no (urgent) need to upgrade the fuel pump. Doing things "just 'coz" with no evidence or proven need is unscientific.

Could be worse. You could have an R33, which looks like a Magna was rear ended by a Maxima. Don't fret. It's a four door. No one really cares what it looks like at the front and rear ends.

Look, there is no way, no way at all, that you have an interconnection between your PS system and your AC. So just put that thought aside. The PS pump is the top one. The AC compressor is the bottom one. You cannot mistake them or their hoses. I do not understand what you mean by "tiny as metal needle". Is that "tiny as" as in "tiny as f**k?" And then "metal needle" as in what looks like an electrical wire poking out of a bit of conduit (in both photos)? I mean, it's clearly a single electrical wire, connected to a loom plug....on the AC compressor? I'm not that familiar with what that connection looks like, even though I had that part of my car (Neo25DET) partially apart today - I wasn't looking there). It could just be the clutch signal wire for the AC. The AC comp could be covered in PS fluid because....it is underneath and oil drips down.

According to the photo, the start signal wire would not have a ring terminal on it. It would have a normal push on spade socket (the spade itself is the terminal on the starter solenoid). Anything with a ring terminal would want to be the main, big, fat wire that actually carries the many many amps that run the starter motor itself. In that photo, WS appear to be providing a pair of fat wires to the starter, one from the alternator output and one from the battery - effectively making the connection between the alternator and the battery at the starter. I dunno. Maybe this is the way it is done with vehicles with the battery in the boot (because the batter wire comes from the rear, under the car. But I think on front battery cars the connection is typically direct from alt to battery. The battery to starter connection is also direct, so the common point is at the battery, not the starter. Either will work, but the loom really should reflect the chassis as well as the engine.

Yup.

Has no effect on the steering itself. Is for idle control.

Just join the 2x hoses together there, or at the other ends. You will lose the idle up, but it should be fine.

P plate turbo (actual Hi-Po vehicle, not "turbo" as in all small shitboxen are turbo these days).

You're not getting an exemption. They say it is possible, but in practice you will be bleeding out your arsehole by the end of the process (and still not have it).

No. The opposite. Life sucks when you remove it.

Yes, the fan shroud.

Meaning the recirc temp sensor? That was my thought also, except that I thought that was 2pin. Hadn't had a chance to pull ash tray out to have a peek.

Sounds fine.

Is it factory looking? If so, have you looked at the wiring diagram?

I've just had the world's best bad idea. We have fuel returning back to the tank. Just point some/all of it at the inside of the bulkhead fitting. Direct liquid cooling!