GTSBoy

I'd do the turbines because while turning them up drastically increases the risk of death, many stock ceramics have grenaded, and on the 26 that can take the engine with it. If it were a 25 I'd just leave it as the risk of engine death is much lower. But on a zero km 26 in a car of that condition, the effort would be worth the insurance.

I dislike R33s and would give my left nut for that one. But then I'd have the usual problem. It's only a car, so it should be driven. But it is the closest thing I have seen to a museum piece and it should be preserved. What to do!?!

The R32 wiring diagrams are freely downloadable in the GTR workshop manual.

It would be about 3 minutes of a Project Binky episode to build a bracket and crank-linkage to mount the usual suspect so that it could drive the 26 lever.

The original ABS would expect life to be without TCS, so it should be fine.

It's not a workshop or a "tester". There are engineers listed on the RTA (insert name of bunch of arseholes in your state) website that are permitted to certify vehicle modifications. These are real automotive engineers, not mechanics, that know what has to be done/tested/proven to ensure that any proposed modification is safe and legal. You contact one of these guys and you start paying him as a professional for his consultation and ultimately his certification.

In a market where Toyota sell primarily taxis to taxi drivers/owners and 50+ year old Asians (so long as the car is silver)......does it really matter?

Yuh, NIstune the ECU and get rid of the TCS. No reason to have it when you have a functioning ankle.

This makes no sense.

There's really 2 options. The valves are leaking, or the rings are. On a built engine it is far more likely that the rings didn't get a good bed in than it is that the valves are leaky on all cylinders. Unless the guy who did the head needs a kick in the nuts.

That's a FloomJabbar (TM). Very rare. eBay will tell you what it's worth.

Workshop manual is downloadable. They're easy enough. Undo nut, pull off hub, extract bearing. Reverse the process. Sealed bearing, so not regreasable.

Hum. I just tried to message him too, but same result.

There are better options (than ID specifically) and have been for years. You should perhaps PM Scotty to find out what he can do for you. Basically, if you can get unmolested EV14 injectors in the size you need, that is best approach. But even the ones that have been decapped are pretty good.

TPS are adjustable. Non-hydraulic lifters should be checked periodically. Even if that period is so long that I've not done it on mine in many years.

The Nismos are old old tech. Modern generation injectors have vastly superior spray patterns and ability to run on really low pulse widths. If you put some effort into looking, you will find many many posts on here going on about how much better an engine will run with decent injectors. You will find that the engine will run better with EV14 1000s than it will on the very best set of GTR/Nismos, even if they are roughly twice the capacity you need. And it cannot get more easy than buying a set that come with the required spacers and loom converters. Takes an extra 30s per injector to install them. And the chances of finding a set of shitty old OEM or Nismos that have actually been anything more than given a whizz around in an ultrasonic cleaner are so close to zero that it's not funny. By now, the originals are 20-30 years old! If they are out of an engine, then chances are that they have been through the hands of half a dozen flat brimmers with no f**king idea, dropped, run full of tank bottoms, etc etc. Why take that risk? It just seems the height of foolishness. I simply cannot imagine stripping all that part of the engine apart to put in dodgy old shit when you will only have to take it all apart again to fix whatever problem you install.

Why would you buy Nismo 555s for a grand when you can buy 6x brand new Bosch EV14 based injectors for ~$600 that are superior in EVERY WAY to both the shitty old GTR injectors and the Nismos?

I don't buy the "I'm on a budget" bit. If you can't afford $600 for injectors, it's probably better to save for a bit until you have the money. Doing mods when you don't have the funds to deal with the inevitable meltdown is a risky business. 2nd hand injectors are always risky anyway. By the time you pay someone what they think they are worth, then get them cleaned and tested, you're 75% of the way to new ones anyway. Just my 2c worth.

Yes. Or on a 4 post hoist, or any equivalent that has the car high enough for you to work under it, but with the weight carried on the wheels. Um, it has to do with having the pivots in the orientation that they will be at in actual service, along with the load being passed through them being as per service. If the wheels are hanging from the pivots, instead of the pivots holding up the weight of the car, then the loads in the bushes are nowhere near the same.

It's not hard, but you need a press.

Something is going to be sticking way outside the line of the guards.

Would suggest that it's an RB20 actuator then. That's not achievable on a 25 actuator without extra boost control.

Same advice as your other thread. Don't use crungy old tech injectors when the new ones are so bloody good.

And don't waste your time with 26 injectors. If you're going to the trouble of changing injectors, at least put in some new Bosch 1000s. It's not 2008 any more.

The RB20 ECU NEEDS the resistor pack. It is meant to drive high impedance injectors. The 26 ECU is also meant to drive high impedance injectors. It's more or less the same ECU. But in order to use the low impedance injectors Nissan had to put the resistor pack on. Why anyone would suggest that you can do without it is beyond me. What a way to run FAR too much current through the switching transistors in the ECU.