GTSBoy

Unless that's an RB20 actuator (and I can't be stuffed searching the part number to check).....then you have a whole 5 psi and your car should be as slow as all f**k. The window is easy. The stuff inside the door that keeps the window aligned (so, either the runner channels/rollers or the felt pads near the top) are stuffed.

Well, that depends on what other boost control you have. Also, there is an obvious misunderstanding as to what terms is being used here. The item in the photo is the boost control solenoid, as others have said. The "actuator" referred to by Kiwi is not that solenoid. He meant the actuator that is mounted on the turbo that pneumatically pushes on the wastegate lever. Not the same thing at all....although, obviously, related. All part of the boost control. Anyway, there are no wires on the actuator. There wires on the solenoid are as Ben said. You should follow all advice given.

"Factory" does not mean "ADR compliant", unless all the requirements are met.

The button on the kick panel will be the valet switch for a Viper (or similar) car alarm.

They may well be illegal. To meet ADRs that have to have washers and self levelling. Do they?

I think that one is for the temp sensor in the radiator and it is for the overheat fan function. It's not the one that connects to the fan though. The wires are too small to run any useful fan, for one thing. And, it is right next to where the temp sensor in the tank lives.

I was thinking the same thing.

Well, no. No belt means the compressor can't run, which means it can't make cold air. But blowing "warm" suggests that the heater tap is stuck open. Which happens, because they are old and get crud in them. Search this question. It has been covered here recently.

Security system

Synchros don't make noise while the car is in gear and under drive. The noise will either be bearings or it will be gear noise from worn meshing faces. Or both.

You don't want a "resonator" in the middle of your exhaust. You want a full size centre-offset oval muffler. Well, you would if your exhaust followed the normal path. You probably just want a centre-centre oval muffler. But the point is, you need a muffler there.

I suppose the advantage of the truck coils is you can can fit the coil cover back over the top. Most of the pencil coils are too long.

There's absolutely no point in doing it. The LS coils used to be the only way to get a big fat upgrade. But they are a bit of a pain in the arse to use with narrow dwell limits, problems with fake copies, etc. The new hotness is modern (truly modern, not the nearly modern that the LS coils are) pencil coils, like they use on just about everything these days. The usual choices for RBs are Toyota (Yaris, Celica, etc), Audi R8, and even Nissan's own VR38 original coils. They are all cheap, very powerful, reliable, etc etc. The Toyota ones are Denso, which would be one of the best manufacturers of these things. I think both the others are too.

Go Pro

And while that one may be dipped......it is on a hard plastic part of the door trim. Not the squishy part. Sheezuz!

Oh. My. God. Siebon. They make CF things. Actual carbon fibre. Real carbon fibre laid up like manually, with skill. Not dipped pieces of crap.

Given the (lack of) money involved in buying these these days, I would suggest getting a 34 GTT instead. Better motor, newer by several years, nicer in most ways than 33, and in the most important way - it doesn't look like a Maxima rear-ended a Magna.

OK, here's an exercise for you. Go dip a vinyl glove. Let it dry. Put it on. Scrunch your fingers. What do you think will happen to the dip? Really? What do you think will happen? Wheels are rigid surfaces. Door trims are NOT. They are vinyl backed by polyurethane foam to give them the "soft touch" experience that people want. If you want the tacky tacky experience of carbon fibre dipped door trims, tou would first have to remake the door trims out of something hard, like ally, or fibreglass.....or carbon fibre.

Yes, but again.....dipping onto surfaces that are flexible (the door trims) is not going to be a long term proposition. 2 weeks later it will be all flaking off.

There's plenty of stuff already on these forums about building RB22s. So have a good search and read what you can find. Tip, use google to search, not he forum search. Just specify that you want to search sau.com.au only. Water pumps are a no brainer. Just use the stocker. Oil pumps.....well, there's nothing wrong with the stocker there either. There are a few people on here who have been sick enough to build RB20s and many build threads showing what they did for pumps, so same advice about searching there. You are going to want to choose the absolute best turbo. Something like a BW 7163 would be a good idea. You need all the boost as soon as you can get it, when there is so little displacement to make torque. RS Enthalpy's site says that they use Z32 ECUs for RBs. That is dumb shit for an RB20. If that is what they're doing for your engine, dump it and get a Nistune board and plug that into the RB20 ECU. Then it is live tunable, just like aftermarket. Best value way to do it.

Yeah, they're Aussie. They're the other main recommendation around here.

It's stock, unopened motor territory, really. Just head studs a good idea.

Hot tip though.....look at the sticky thread at the top of this forum.

The Nismo twins are the usual first suggestion around here. Not sure about your budget though. I think once you decide you have to spend more than ~$750 for a clutch, you just pay as much as you have to to get the right clutch. $2.5k at Just Jap.

But the short answer is yes. This is probably the first of the 14000 such threads on this forum where the OP intends to fit sensibly sized wheels and tyres. +35 would be better than +32 (which will poke out a tiny bit more than the 35s). But GTR wheels are +30 and they fit fine. 235s a better choice than 245 (which will bag out a bit more and may just scrape on the guard lip at +32).