GTSBoy

Say what? An RB25DE R34 is coming up as RB20DE? All the GTVs were 2.5 litre, yes?

Welcome. GTR registry not necessarily going to get the details of non-GTRs correct. It's NA. It always was. There is no such thing as "turbo ready". Note, as pre-warning, that most of us here will advise you not to consider turboing the car, on the basis that it is better, easier and cheaper to just buy a turbo car. That's the Skyline logo. You talking about the panel gap? Won't affect moisture entry. The car may have been damaged and repaired - without enough care paid to getting it straight enough to make the panel gaps look nice. Will need inspection by a crash repairer if you want a good opinion on what the condition of it is. Don't listen to anyone giving you shit. You could just get the lips of your existing wheels cleaned up. Otherwise, I recommend Enkei RPF-1, in black, as the bestest, lightest, non-expensive wheel. That is a shitty pod enclosure. I would f**k the whole lot off for a factory airbox. You won't ever need more than that. That pod will be worse than factory. The exhaust manifold is wrapped. And it IS intended to keep the heat in the exhaust and not let it out into the engine bay. This is a good thing. Do not change it. Here's a pro tip. These forums have been running for more than 20 years. Every question has been asked before. There are thousands of hours of reading available on here. Search, and ye shall find.

As if buy a Jap brand exhaust with a 2.5" restrictor inside it (like they nearly all have). 1. Choose mufflers. 2. Build exhaust at shop. 3. Skid off into sunset.

Lean mixtures almost certainly from lack of fuel supply. Beyond that, no I can't tell you. Put a fuel pressure gauge on it and load it up, see what it says.

Hi. Trust that number as much as you would a $3 note. Also......did they convert the odo to miles? Or are you converting it for us? Either way, unless it has been locked up in a box in Japan for many years, it is highly unlikely that it's only done a hundred thousand kays. Wound back odos is the single most reliable feature of imports from Japan.

Left-right bias problem may well be related to a bed in problem. If you have gotten a good bed in on one side but not the other, braking effort won't be even. Could also be because of a rotor/hub runout problem, although you should be able to feel that. The pedal problem implies a fault in the booster or master cylinder. Did you bottom the pedal out while bleeding? if so, you may have damaged the seals on the master's piston. Or you may have pushed junk into a port that's preventing fluid flowing or relieving when it is supposed to. Oh, and I forgot.....GTR has ABS, so the problem could also be lurking in the ABS unit. These are complicated enough that they could cause both a bias problem and possibly the pedal problem.

To repeat, ITBs can in no way affect the type of "response" that most people mean when talking about turbos. The "response" of a turbo engine is usually assumed to mean where the boost threshold is or how laggy it is (which are not the same thing). It is not usually meant to refer to the throttle response. ITBs are all about throttle response. The reason they are so snappy is simply because the volume of inlet runner downstream from the throttle plates is much smaller and the effect on the flowrate is therefore that much faster. In the order of 1 or 2 tenths of a second though....not hundreds of rpm like with turbo response.

Download the R32 GTR workshop manual. It has RB20/GTS4 wiring diagrams in it too. Most of the non driveline specific stuff is identical between the GTRs and Skylines anyway.

At idle it is more likely to be caused by the ECU using timing to control idle speed. This happens when the IACV is too gummed up to work. It could be that the CAS is buggered. Bearing wear and shaft wobble make it impossible for the CAS to work properly.

PMd

Do not waste your time and money transplanting Nissan's 2nd and 3rd slowest RB engines in place of their absolute slowest RB engine. There is no good that can come from this. Drive the slow piece of shit around slowly until you are off your Ps then put a turbo engine in it if you must. Although if you then come and ask us about transplanting a turbo engine we will all tell you to f**k the piece of shit off and just buy a turbo car, because there is too much expense and pain involved in engine conversions for things that you can already buy off the rack.

And while that's true, it's usually the first or second thing that gets changed as soon as the board in booted up!

Yes. Anyone with Nistune software and the required Consult-USB adapter can do it in about 2 minutes. I'm dead surprised that it is still enabled!

Yuh'd think so......hence my response.

here

It will help with throttle response....that 10th of a second when you modulate the throttle is much better. Boost response is a totally different thing and, no, it will not help at all. People do it because OMG WTF !!! RB26 Godzirra!

The correct answer is Nistune.

Try 5 or 6 volts initially. You will need a decent way to create that - able to handle enough current to drive the solenoid. You want more assistance at low speed to make parking effort low, but you do not want that much assistance when going fast, because you lose all feel. And the solenoid in your photo is indeed the PS solenoid. It's bound to be able to pull a few amps at 12V. You could try measuring the DC resistance with a multimeter to get a rough idea how much current it will draw.

ITBs are much snappier (throttle response) than a big open plenum - hence why the 26 had them in the first place. Realistically, on an RB20, it is nothing more than a looks cool / internet points type of thing than being of any usefulness. Doesn't really affect how much power or torque you can make.

No. If the computer that you are thinking of is the Haltech, that is NOT the computer to worry about. The computer to worry about is not even in the car any longer (that would be the HICAS CU). Your PS solenoid is currently (likely) receiving no volts. Thus it gives no assistance. Put 12V on it and it will go feather light. Put something in between on it and it will give an in-between amount of assistance - which sort of is OK but will not feel nice all the time. You do not want to be trying to refit the HICAS CU, just to get the PS working (despite what I said in my first post, which was assuming that the car hadn't been molested quite as heavily as it sounds like it has). Putting the HICAS Cu back in would bring other problems that will just make your life hard. So forget about it. The solenoid you speak of....now, if that's the HICAS solenoid in the engine bay, don't think about it again. It is gone and you don't need it. (As proof, I offer my car, from which I have removed all the HICAS gear EXCEPT the computer. Having done a small wiring mod - which is nothing more than pulling one of its loom connectors off! - it is quite happy to run the power steering like it always did, without putting the red HICAS warning light up on the dash.) Note that I have, at pretty much all times, used the terms PS solenoid and HICAS solenoid when talking about them so that there is no confusion. The PS solenoid is just a little valve on the rack, that controls how much assistance you get. The HICAS solenoids (of which there were actually several in the car originally) provided ALL the power that moved the rear rack (and locked it out when there was a fault, in the case of the rear solenoid). Do not confuse them. As I have said several posts ago, what you will want to do is work out what either non-HICAS Skylines did to arrange for variable assistance (by speed) or what other common-era Nissans did (if that proves easier) and get one of those modules and wire it in so it can see what it needs (power, speed signal being the obvious ones) and drive the PS solenoid.....OR.....make an arduino based controller that reads the speed signal and drives a PWM output (and probably SSR) to drive the PS solenoid. The beauty of Arduino is that you can have other inputs on it (like a selector switch or variable resistor control) to vary the weight or change the shape of the assistance curve, and you can completely reprogram it if you make a mess of it the first time and don't like the result, etc etc. but it requires enough electronics brains to not blow it up.

Here's the list of things you need to upgrade to make that much power. Each one will cost $3k in PlayStation land. Turbo Turbo ECU Fuel system Clutch Gearbag Diff (rear) Diff (front) Transfer case Add in another couple of lots of $3k for rounding errors, etc. Take off $3k if you decide to go single, but add it back on for the new exhaust stuff you need. Sounds like ~$30k.

Ignore the Haltech/ECU situation. It has nothing to do with anything. Skylines (worth importing) mostly had HICAS. HICAS did what it was supposed to do, and because it was the steering system, it was thus entrusted with the more basic aspects of running the steering system - including deciding how much assistance to give to the rack. This is a speed based decision, and seeing as the HICAS CU was being fed a speed signal as an input to its primary task, it probably made perfect sense to just use that one module to do everything, rather than having a separate (steering controller) module as well. Now, it is completely possible that your car never had HICAS. If it does have a HICAS lock bar, then it probably did have HICAS. The rear subframes for HICAS and non-HICAS cars are different and there is no need (or possibility) of fitting a lock bar to a non-HICAS subframe. So, if you car never had HICAS, then it would have had to have something (a steering controller module) to drive the PS solenoid.....but as I said, I've never looked into what that module would have been. Trust that it would not have been the ECU, though, because they simply don't have anything to do with the steering.

HICAS CU lives under the parcel shelf, driver's side, near the speaker. Have a look, see if it is there. If it is not, then you're screwed regardless of whatever else is there or not. The engine bay HICAS solenoids are huge things, bolted to the chassis rail opposite the (engine) oil filter location. You can't miss them if they're there. If someone has gone full jihad on your HICAS system and pulled everything out, you will never get the PS to the correct behaviour without finding a way to get it to do what other non-HICAS Nissans do. There must be an (electronic) mechanism to change the PWM signal fed to the rack solenoid to affect the assistance. I haven't looked into how to do it, because my HICAS CU still works. I have only gone as far as thinking about what would need to be done. I'm assuming some Arduino based rig to take in the speed signal and put out a PWM to drive the PS solenoid. Alternative would be to find how Nissan did it elsewise to HICAS and rob the module out of a similar car (Maxima, whatever the hell else was same era).

Unless the new cooler is either spectacularly brilliant or shithouse cf. the old cooler, there will be no need for a retune.