GTSBoy

Actually Ben, as much as it saddens me to say it.....he's right. Happened on my car many years ago. Power wire for the heater on the O2 sensor is in the same loom as the PS solenoid. When it burnt, it took out my power steer. Was a right diagnostic f**kin' nightmare to find it too.

HICAS computer needs: a) to be installed, b) not f**ked, c) wired up, d) receiving speed signal from dashboard.

Something is getting hot. Stops working when hot, starts working again when cooled down. A bad connection might be the cause - possibly on an earth.

As if that's the reason to not stretch like that! How about driving on the sidewall? Or loading the sidewall completely contrarily to how the engineer designed it to be loaded? Or how about setting it up to be popped off the rim edge when you hit a rock? Or completely defeating the point of rim protectors on the sidewall of the tyre? Or ruining the dynamic performance of the tyre?

This why...

Um.......you could do a search. There would be thousands of threads telling people what to do on "major" services or what to do on a paranoid just bought it service. Timing belt & waterpump, thermostat, oxy sensor are the obvious non-obvious ones.

Wierdest spambot evar!

It is time to tell the OP that there are a million million threads on here asking the same question. Some searching will turn up the million possible things that could be causing this, that I am not going to type out again.

Hhhahahhahhahahha. Um. No.

I disagree with your disagree doubly. I have personally had 2x 20DET gearboxes suffer from input bearing death just with the increased torque load from a boosted 20 making only ~175rwkW. My mechanical sympathy levels are off the fricking charts too. I have also seen a large number of other 20DET and 25DE suffer short lives with 25 turbos in front of them. The little gearboxes are not glass....they are rubber. They are as flexible as a piece of boiled spaghetti and it f**ks about with the bearing life terribly.

Haha. What he said. Basically, absolutely any set of extractors that wasn't designed by a moron will do effectively exactly the same job on an RB25DE. ie, add about 2 HP and sound nice. The factory exhaust manifold is not a bad one. There are only small gains to be had.

The hell you doing inviting more bloody Kiwis to move here? Sydney is already Auckland's biggest suburb.

Will need a gearbox. The NA box will tap out after a year at the most. Just not strong enough for the torque load. Will need a fuel pump. Will need an AFM. Will need that boost sensor, but it should be on the engine.

If there was any similarity in the shape of the rear edge of an R33 and R34 bootlid, then the question might make sense. But given how different they are, it is meaningless.

Or trying to work out if it's worth stealing.

Um....paint matching is the job of the spray painter. He buys and mixes and tests paint to make sure it matches the adjacent panels. You don't just spray and pray.

I'll assume that you meant to have a question mark at the end of your sentence. The next thing to say is.....do you know how to use the internet? Because you could search for for sale ads of R33s to find out what people are asking for them. The more direct answer is, they are not worth much. Although that depends on what you mean by "much". For some people, $8k is a lot of money.

The update is likely that he won't be getting ADR approval because it won't meet visibility requirements. Sadly, because it's an otherwise good idea.

Nope. Sorry. Not my cup of tea. Just seemed like you had the "Shorted something (your temp gauge wire) out. That something is not directly connected to the ECU, so probably didn't burn anything in the ECU" type of event that usually then leads to a fuse popping. Some parts of your system still have power, but others don't. Sounds like a fuse.

Either an engine or gearbox mount is sufficiently stuffed to have had the whole driveline move such that the shift lever is getting pushed by the side of the tunnel hole, or, there is a problem with the selectors. You might have lost a dowel or pin that holds the selector onto the shift rod. Might be only partway out and wobbly. I'm sure there are other possibilities too, but failing to imagine them right now.

They'd be pounds (mass) per minute

Surely it has to be a fuse?

No-one ever thinks of the fuel pressure.

You have to make a speedo drive gear for the RB25DET gearbox to drive an R32 cable drive. The usual donor part is from a Navara, which used the same basic gearbox as RB25DET, but had cable drive. If this has been done on your car already, then the single most likely problem is that the drive cable is broken. They are old and they don't like the rather sharp bend that has to be put into them to fit the R32 cable onto the Navara sender conversion.