GTSBoy
-
Posts
18,337 -
Joined
-
Days Won
280 -
Feedback
100%
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Media Demo
Store
Everything posted by GTSBoy
-
Rb25 swapped 240sx will crank but won’t start
GTSBoy replied to Colton_509's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Fuel pump wiring likely disturbed by all the rooting around in the boot. -
It must just be my anti-R33 bent, but I would have said the easy way to identify a Neo head is it will be under the bonnet of a good car.
-
As long as he's only doing it to the usual shitters that he wrecks, we'll survive the trauma.
-
If the R32 in question is in good nick, please don't cut it up. I have no problem with people abusing cars that are already f**ked up, but there are so few good R32s left now that it would be a real shame to deliberately damage one, even if it is for teh cause of making it look pretty cool (I like the Rocket Bunny look).
-
2002 Nissan Skyline PV35 350GT-8 Parts Compatibility Help
GTSBoy replied to Neurotic's topic in Introduce yourself
No, it makes no difference. They are all the same car underneath. The fact that it's a V35 still makes it hardly any different than an R32 underneath. Most stuff looks essentially the same. Of course, the parts may not swap like for like, but it's not as if Nissan made major changes to anything over the years. So sedan = coupe = everything else. -
Now that you mention it....yes, the pair of spacers that goes in the rod end on each one is missing. Perhaps you should check to see if you have stock arm on the car, or another set of these. And yes, when rod ends wear, you get metal to metal knocking noises.
-
If you set the length of the AMS rods to exactly the length of the stockers (to the centreline of the bolt hole through the front joint) then you won't need an alignment afterwards. The paranoid would at least get the alignment checked, but the confident would expect the alignment to be unchanged. Doing so would buy the benefits of reduced slop, but not the potential benefit of winding in a little more caster. Shortening the rods would best be done AT the wheel aligners, to get the measurement you want. If you don't know what you want, don't f**k with it. There is plenty of reading on here to inform you though. Changing suspension units, even with a small height change, will not require a wheel alignment. Again, the paranoid would check, the confident would just run with it.
-
Definitely the front. The equivalents on the rears are called "tension rods" in these cars. You do not want to f**k about with those. I have written many words on that subject lately, if you want a read.
-
The caster rods control the fore-aft movement of the front lower control arm. Without them, the lower control arm would be able to move forward and backwards in the wheel well enough to crash into the guard liner, because the bushes at the chassis end of the arm aren't designed to take loads applied in that direction. The stock caster rods are fixed length. No adjusting them. The stock amount of caster in these Nissans is a bit low - only a few degrees. More (positive) caster provides an increase in the amount of dynamic camber (camber that appears in the wheel angle as the wheel is turned in the steering axis). The stock caster rods also feature huge rubber/hydrogooshy bushes that provide a metric shit tonne of slop. These aftermarket caster rods provide the ability to adjust the length to get the amount of caster that you want*. They also usually use rod end joints in place of squishy bushes, thereby completely eradicating any deflection under load. In my experience, this is f**king Excellent (TM), as it drastically improves the behaviour of the front end. * R32s in particular do not like having lots of caster wound into them. You can wind more into R33s because the upper control arm design is superior. The more you wind into an R32 the worse the twisting/binding that occurs in the upper arm and shit starts to get real with them, much worse/faster. Therefore the limit for caster on R32s is probably 6°. I think I'm running ~5.5°, even with tricky upper arms.
-
Nope. Victoria is the only state with a "number of inlet mods is limited to X" rule.
-
The new photos are wrong. Somehow you have hood the boost T up between the wastegate actuator (which is correct) and the vent line back into the turbo inlet (which is VERY wrong). You now have absolutely NO boost control. The loud pop at 4k is when your car is hitting boost cut. The ECU is killing it. The boost T's second side needs to be connected to the nipple on the turbo outlet. That's either on the turbo outlet pipe (to the intercooler) or directly on the compressor housing (there are a couple of options depending on the car - Nissan did it both ways).
-
Valid point. I was only in the engine bay yesterday fiddling with a low beam and remembered that was the case!
-
Likely made in Taiwan, like all the others. They do appear to be at least semi-decent, having boots on the rod ends and overall good finish. He probably took them off because the rod ends are rattly though. Fit them up and find out.
-
It's the stock wiring AT THE PUMP that is the most concern here. Not the wiring that trails off into the car. Put a massive pump into the tank and feed it with the original dental floss wiring through the pump hat? Recipe for voltage drop and wire meltage. Put a pump in there that is bigger than stock (and, of course, big enough to do the job) but not too big for the wiring? Yup, recipe for happiness. If you go massive, you need to do more work.
-
Get rid of any connection involving that T piece! The boost T goes in a single (cut, of course) hose between the boost source and the wastegate actuator. That other T is leading off into the wilderness, and is causing you to have no idea where the boost signal is being lost. Just pull the T connections apart and block everything other than your connections to the boost T.
-
If it's not massively advanced timing (which you may have fixed) then it's either the IACV is filthy and stuck wide open, or you have a generous vacuum leak.
-
Yup, as above....do not hook anything up to the "tee piece". That's going to the stock boost solenoid, which is part of the problem.
-
Disconnect the boost tee altogether. Leave the hoses there, open. Drive it. Floor it. See if the boost comes on and immediately goes straight to overboost (like waaaay too much boost). If it does, we're starting to learn something. if it still refuses to boost, then we also learn something - that something else is wrong. Things that could be wrong here. Blocked fuel filter, f**ked fuel pump, dirty injectors, maladjusted CAS (timing), blocked cat, crushed exhaust, rag in the intercooler pipe, something wrong with the wastegate/actuator. Also, I cannot tell from your photo if you have the tee hooked up correctly. Draw a sketch showing exactly where every connection goes.
-
Maybe a video showing both the tacho and the boost gauge on a 3rd gear pull will help us?
-
You won't find anyone who can show you a photo of a stock setup, because no-one has a stock setup. So, if you look at the last diagram, you will see where hoses are supposed to sit, and if you look at the first diagram, and follow the pipes between the solenoid, turbo outlet and turbo inlet, you should be able to work it out, including the T piece.
-
R33, power windows and sunroof don’t work ?
GTSBoy replied to Regey_'s topic in Car Audio & Electrical
I'm not so sure about R33, but the R32 has a box mounted above the large opening. About where those two holes are right on the upper edge towards the rear end of the opening. -
Given that they look like EVERY OTHER FUEL PUMP...... https://www.google.com.au/search?hl=en&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1596&bih=863&ei=8e3UW9nYBobMvwS_0q_gBw&q=r32+gtr+fuel+pump&oq=r32+gtr+fuel+pump&gs_l=img.3..0l2j0i30k1j0i8i30k1j0i24k1l6.1949.5068.0.5355.17.16.0.0.0.0.348.2420.0j9j1j2.12.0....0...1ac.1.64.img..5.12.2418....0.OzbsQNiXZAI
-
It's in the last picture I posted.
-
The OEM boost control solenoid is hooked up to vent some of the boost signal from the compressor outlet tapping port on its way to the wastegate actuator. the instant you put in any other sort of boost controller (manual, EBC, whatever), the original solenoid is no longer used. The new boost controller then does what the original one used to do.
-
That's the boost control solenoid.
