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GTSBoy

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Everything posted by GTSBoy

  1. GTSBoy
    All of that can be fixed too. There's no point in building one of these as a resto-original project. No-one cares about an old slow Skyline. An old fast Skyline is cool.
  2. GTSBoy
    Can't remember. Some place on South Rd near Hindmarsh (Adelaide) from what vague memories are left. The latest of these rebuilds was like, 15 years ago. There are specialist automotive air-con places (not the dodgy cheap-arse "who can fix me 'air?") chains, but proper specialists, in every major city. It's not exactly rocket surgery to do it. They just get stripped down and fitted with new seals, wobble plates, bearings, etc etc, according to how f**ked it is. Just need to have the knowledge and the parts. And possibly the ability to do any machining that might be needed to account for wear on the casings etc.
  3. GTSBoy
    Just that you can spend a bazzillion dollars on an L series and still not go fast, perhaps.
  4. GTSBoy
    RB is just an evolved L series. Front and rear sumps are available. Anything can be made to fit anywhere.
  5. GTSBoy
    Full engineering required everywhere (in Oz). Will (likely) require brake upgrade and testing at the minimum. Stock ECU or full emissions test also.
  6. GTSBoy
    The R32 is a legend car in Oz because it crushed the V8s in our touring car series. Was so successful it got itself banned and the rules of the competition changed to exclude anything but knuckle dragger cars. Australia is where the name Godzilla came from.
  7. GTSBoy
    Editing images on a phone...... and what the GIMP can do....... not in the same universe.
  8. GTSBoy
    I had the compressor from my VC Commodore, Alfa GTV and R32 rebuilt. All good.
  9. GTSBoy
    I'd just get the one you have rebuilt.
  10. GTSBoy
    I've been using the GIMP since about 1999. I walked in on my (16 yo) daughter using my computer on the weekend editing all the photos she'd taken using it (because faster than her laptop). Proud day.
  11. GTSBoy
    The R32 tunnel was not intended to swallow the 25DET gearbox. I struggled, and got it to go together. If you're desperate, make a 10-15mm thick spacer out of ABS plastic or similar, to fit between the boot and the tunnel.
  12. GTSBoy
    No.
  13. GTSBoy
    Engine height problems not a concern?
  14. GTSBoy
    That happens. Mine is like that. Mine was originally an auto.
  15. GTSBoy
    Can't tell you exactly why the engine plays up when you blip the throttle. Probably depends on which direction you have it maladjusted. Suffice to say, that the ECU needs to know where "closed" is and needs to know where "not closed" is (ie, everywhere else!) and uses that knowledge to decide whether to be on the idle maps or running on the main maps. Needless to say, it won't run well on the wrong map. You need to put the ECU into diagnostic mode and see what/if fault codes you have in there. The ECU will report on the TCS DTCs that affect it. Also, which TPS did you f**k with? The engine's one? Or the one on the TCS throttle?
  16. GTSBoy
    TPS would appear to be maladjusted. Should read ~0.45v at closed/idle.
  17. GTSBoy
    I would also point out that there is a full day's work involved in correctly setting up a fully adjustable rear end on a Nissan. On and off the alignment machine several times. Changing the length of the traction arm then checking the effect on bump steer then back onto the alignment machine to fix the upper arm length. Rinse and repeat. If you're paying someone to do this for you, you're paying a lot. I too have done a lot of this stuff myself. Not so much because I don't trust my aligner, but more so because of the time and cost associated with getting it done there. A starting measurement on the aligner, followed by going home and measuring the lengths of various arms and some simple trigonometry can tell you how long to set adjustable arms that will be correct to within a couple of points of a degree. Homemade bump steer gauge to minimise bump problems. Further twiddling of adjustables and possibly measuring camber with a spirit level or digital level and some more trig, all followed by return trip to the aligners to make sure that toe and camber are right.
  18. GTSBoy
    Haha. You haven't hated life until you've hated that bolt.
  19. GTSBoy
    USB-Serial adapters are famously a pain in the arse. There are basically 2 or 3 chipsets in all of them. Some of them just do not work with different peripherals. Others work fine. I have no knowledge of what works with the PFC. Assuming you can get the converter to play ball with Windows, the PFC software will want to be talking to a particular COM port. You will have to check that in the software's config and then you will want to see (in device manager) that that COM port is actually being provided by the adapter. Sometimes you get silly shit, like the software only allows you to choose between COM1 to 3, but the adapter only provides COM15 or something equally stupid. Sometimes there are ways to fix that sort of problem, sometimes it's just a case of trying another adapter.
  20. GTSBoy
    So what are you using to connect it? USB-serial adapter?
  21. GTSBoy
    It's missing. if it will miss at idle it will miss worse under load.
  22. GTSBoy
    It's actually probably the change in fuel from winter blend to summer blend. Tuning it out will possibly require reverting back in 6 months. Try it and find out.
  23. GTSBoy
    It won't stay stuck to something that moves, like the padded vinyl that the door trims already are. Will bubble and lift and....look trashy. More trashy even than when it was fresh.
  24. GTSBoy
    It's misfiring. Could be recent change in fuel composition (end of winter mix, start of summer mix) depending on where you are. Could be dirty plug(s). Could be dirty AFM. The video showed it idling at ~1000rpm. I assume it was still warming up. If it's settling to 500 rpm (where it should be aiming for 650rpm) then that could be because of the miss, or it could be because the IACV is clogged enough to stop it controlling. The IACV incorporates a wax pellet cold start valve that gives you your cold engine high revs but it will close as the coolant warms and if the IACV can't control with the stepper motor then you can lose idle revs. I had to clean mine recently because of this. Was dropping to (nice) idle of 400rpm. Not satisfactory for driving though, as it can and will stall.
  25. GTSBoy
    We call it the igniter. It's just a box full of transistors that switches the power on-off to the coils when triggered by the ECU. They do die. When they do they play up when they're hot. They seldom die so that you can't start the car when it is hot. They usually just misfire a lot. So, my guess? It's not the igniter. It might be, but unlikely. The coils also die in the same fashion. Probability of coils causing your problem also not real high. Again, when hot they still start, they just misifre on load. You might have dirty injectors, or a fuel pressure problem, or any of a bunch of other weird arse things. The CAS might actually be sick, which might make some sense for it not working once warm/hot. Same with the AFM.
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