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GTSBoy

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Everything posted by GTSBoy

  1. GTSBoy
    What is a PTU?
  2. GTSBoy
    The logical source of problems would be wiring that was f**ked up during the conversion. The driver's side engine bay loom that services the plugs on the transmission is an example of a place that you need to make changes. Coils much less likely to die except by pure coincidence. AFM wiring, oxy sensor, knock sensors are all more likely to be abused during work in the engine bay.
  3. GTSBoy
    Coils are easy. $500, but easy. Rear dampers are easy. A few hundred for cheapies, or much $$ for things worth having. But easy. Parking light wires are easy Water pumps are easy, and I replace the pump on EVERY car/engine I buy, along with the timing belt and any seals etc in that area while it is accessible. Instrument cluster might be harder. Wheel studs are easy Harmonic balancer is easy. Not necessarily cheap, but easy enough. Radiators are easy. And cheap. And easy. 30% tread on tyres could last 10000km. Dirty cooling system will take you at least 5 flushes and uses of muck-out etc etc to clean it up. Manual poking of bleeders on the inlet manifold will probably also be required. $20 will not do it. Time to go turn some tricks to pay for your new habit.
  4. GTSBoy
    Auto ECU will not be the problem. The only difference between auto and manual ECUs (apart from slight differences in mapping) are that the auto ECU also contains the TCU. Oh, and the idle ignition timing is 20° in autos, not 15° like in manuals. There could be the usual million explanations. From coils, to dirty AFM or faulty wiring. Perhaps you need to do a diagnostic on the ECU and looks for codes.
  5. GTSBoy
    I was going to post my opinion earlier, but was waiting to see the response from gearset manufacturers first. But I concur with them. The reason you can fit 6 speed dox sets in where 5 speed synchro sets came from is that you need more room between gears for synchros. It's also not trivial to just jam a 6 speed set in because you also have to provide the shift mechanism, and there might not be a good way to do that. That's why proper 6 speed swaps for 5 speed originals usually include a new case. And just a point ref R34 GTR 6 speed diff ratios. Not 3.9. Something like 3.454. Very tall compared to 4.11s.
  6. GTSBoy
    Haven't we talked about this before? It's probably just an NTC sensor with ~230 ohms @ ~20-25°C. You could just try one of those to see how close it is. Then heat shrink the connections, stick to an alloy plate with some thermal adhesive and bolt it to the original mounting hole. Should work.
  7. GTSBoy
    Won't be blown turbo. They don't get "damaged". they get f**ked. And then they don't have any blades at all and they don't drive at all and there is no whistling noises. It'll be a boost/exhaust leak, same as always.
  8. GTSBoy
    I refuse to use the word that starts with P, let alone take my car to them. Made that decision some 30 years ago!
  9. GTSBoy
    That's the Rolls Royce way to do it. Even a quick flick with a wire brush and a spray with some rust primer from a can will do the job though.
  10. GTSBoy
    The rail is not bent. The bottom of it has been pushed up which has pushed the sides out, but the position of the rail's centreline (left-right) is probably in exactly the same place as original and the height of the floor/straightness of the weld line along the rail/floor joints are probably not altered at all. The rail might have slightly less strength against deformation (say in a frontal collision) than it used to, but that change would be quite small. But this is the reason that they are defectable here in Australia with that sort of damage. In reality, it is pretty much just cosmetic and nearly every other Skyline on the roads is in a much worse condition. No. That rubber stuff is not "rust proofing" in that you would not put it on bare metal. it is meant to be put on top of properly prepared and rust-proofed steel, to provide an additional physical layer of protection over the chemical protection layer. If you have damaged coating on that part of the rail and you want to protect it again, you will need to hit with some protective primer and/or underbody sealer/paint and only then consider the rubber shit.
  11. GTSBoy
    The rail itself is fine to be left like that apart from rust considerations as mentioned above. Sadly, the dent is big enough that it would fail a roadworthy. So if this is an issue where you live, it would want to be fixed. I had to pull all similar dents (much closer to the front end of the rail) out of mine to make sure it was going to pass Regency when I did my engine conversion. We made a special tool that we could insert through the holes near the front to help with this. That option would not be possible with the dent shown in your photo. Too far back. It it must be repaired, then you will be cutting metal out and putting straight stuff back. Simple rule. Chassis rails like that are not strong enough for chassis stands. Too much point load on too thin a section of metal. Even the doubled up seam that Duncan pointed out is not strong enough. The only place designed to hold the car's weight is the jacking point under the sill. This doesn't help, if you're jacking there you can't put a stand there too. The only solution is to use stands that can fit under the lower inner pivots of the front suspension arms. I had to grind the edges of the tops of my chassis stands to make them slim enough to fit in there. Those points are hard enough and strong enough to hold the weight. The only time this is no good is when you need to pull the lower arms off - then you can find an alternative way, probably involving the jacking points. If you have to put chassis stands under the rails, then you need to use load spreaders, but this must be done safely, which is quite difficult. Just putting lumps of steel/wood between the rail and the stand is not safe.
  12. GTSBoy
    Not precisely. But close. 3.5 kg is a lot of mass (when you're talking about, say, uranium).
  13. GTSBoy
    US short ton is 2000lb, which is 907.44 kg. I've always cynically thought that the half ton rating on these trucks was inside the cabin. :p
  14. GTSBoy
    And a few extra thousand dollhairs, no?
  15. GTSBoy
    It'll be exhaust manifold gasket or turbo gasket leaking. I haven't bothered listening to your videos, but that's what it will be.
  16. GTSBoy
    oops
  17. GTSBoy
    Hyperboost highflow turbo (or one of his outright new turbos), Bosch EV14 based injectors at 1000cc, Walbro 460. Pod filters are all the same crap, so it doesn't matter what you choose. Don't touch the inlet manifold. Waste of money, especially on your budget.
  18. GTSBoy
    That seems satisfactory.
  19. GTSBoy
    That's fine. Just don't try to go to Dubbo. It's not just about straight line trips either. If you are on holiday and touring around a national park or similar, you're not actually getting anywhere and there may not be a charge station within cooee. As I said, depends on your usage model. It (EV) would work for me, as I only ever drive my car close to the metro area. But then I'd want to cut my wrists from the boredom associated with choosing an SUV, or anything other than a boosted turbo car.
  20. GTSBoy
    Cost of fuel is the SMALLEST part of the cost of ownership of any vehicle that's not already at EOL.
  21. GTSBoy
    Petrol engine bans in EU are a loooooong way from being relevant to Oz. EVs will become more prevalent here, but you should only consider one if it will suit your driving requirements. As soon as you live and drive any distance outside the metro area EVs start to become a sketchy proposition.
  22. GTSBoy
    No power at motor != blown motor. It means exactly the opposite.
  23. GTSBoy
    Hahha.
  24. GTSBoy
    How many have you actually tried?
  25. GTSBoy
    Here's the lesson for the day. If you don't know what you are doing (with brakes), don't f**k with brakes until you do know what you are doing. It's only the most important safety function on the car, ferchrissake!
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