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GTSBoy

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Everything posted by GTSBoy

  1. GTSBoy
    Yeah, but surely no-one could hold either of the possible diffs in hand and mistake one for the other.
  2. GTSBoy
    No. Not normal. Mech LSD should turn the left wheel forwards when you turn the right wheel forwards. Open diff does the reverse. If the opposite wheel does not turn at all, I cannot explain what you're experiencing. Something must be f**ked.
  3. GTSBoy
    10:1 it's just the reg is seized.
  4. GTSBoy
    None of the above. G30 660. Call it done. Or, BW EFR, or one of the other similar modern options. In the BWs we're talking EFR 7670 with the twinscroll turbine housing. Sorta good for 650HP at the flywheel, which should be more than enough. Broadly speaking it's equivalent to the G30 660. None of this is cheap like the OP's original options, though. The PSR3576 is also a bit larger than the new power target would suggest using. The ATR43SS3 was always a smaller choice than the PSR. 600 fly vs 750 fly. So they weren't ever comparable options. I would think the ATR43SS2 or 3 would do what is (now) wanted, especially if E85 is the path to making the target. Tao's own recco is for an SS2 on E85 for 340rwkW, which is almost exactly on target. The SS3 would have more headroom, but it really demands a 4" inlet. I would probably try Tao's reccomended turbo at <1/3 the price of the name brand stuff I suggested above.
  5. GTSBoy
    That video is gooooone.
  6. GTSBoy
    The obvious answer is +30.
  7. GTSBoy
    The dampener won't make any difference. And blocking the detached hose with your finger is only about eliminating the vacuum leak which will cause the idle speed to increase (which you can hear happening when you block/unblock it). But the reg? It's not doing anything at all. Nada.
  8. GTSBoy
    93US is 98RON. 91 is a little on the low side to try to push to 600HP, but at least you can control boost to something more conservative when you're not on the good stuff. Also, we should check. Is that 600HP at the flywheel? Or using the usual pony power yielded by US roller dynos?
  9. GTSBoy
    ^^What he said. The fuel pressure wants to be about 43 psi with just priming, or with the engine running but the reg sense line pulled off (and plugged to stop it being a vacuum leak). It should obviously be about 13 psi less than that with the engine running and the sense line connected, because that's going to be close to manifold vacuum. So, somewhere in the 30 psi territory. 45 is PSI is too much, and very likely wrong. It is remotely possible that that is the fuel pressure it was set to when it was tuned, if you have an adjustable reg, which I couldn't see. But I suspect that it is not correct, because it was showing very similar pressure at both prime and running. It looks like the sense line is disconnected or blocked (or the reg is stuff, or something else weird). The tacho fluctuating like that is either a fault with the tacho, the wiring from the ECU, or the ECU's own output. The engine was clearly not changing speed like the tacho was.
  10. GTSBoy
    I would never LS an R32 either. I do have truly evil thoughts about VK56s or the Toyo V12s out of New Zealand though. Very hard to justify for my daily....
  11. GTSBoy
    Oh no. There's heaps. A whole lot of them are legitimately handling/installation problems. The material used in the L19 bolts is susceptible to hydrogen embrittlement and must be kept well oiled and not handled without gloves, etc etc. There have been many failures of these from people who didn't realise. There may also have been failures caused by conditions inside the engine (say, head gasket failures?) and people didn't realise that that was probably a death warrant. But that's the L19 material. The ARP 2000s are not made of the same stuff and are more forgiving. But from what I gather there have been occasions where the head has pulled off of one, and non-one can say that the installation was at fault (given good torque records), etc etc, but maybe just maybe the face of the rod shoulder where the bolt head sits wasn't actually perfectly square to the bore of the hole...and loaded up the head with a torque across it and.... ping! I've head stories of bolt heads being found in corners of workshops or in the bottom of sumps even without starting and running the engine! Trouble is, it is really hard to sort the true material failures from the handling/installation failures. It's worse than human medicine. You can only run the experiment once, and you can't run it backwards in time to look at the rod before it became a modern sculpture.
  12. GTSBoy
    Never mind the ash - the massive witness mark on the leading edge of the rear arch make little baby jesus cry.
  13. GTSBoy
    He hasn't been seen here since the day of the above post.
  14. GTSBoy
    You'll need a 25 head. It's no bueno doing it with the 20 head. The bore diameter is....different. Very different. Hasn't been done in the wold since the larger bore twin cam heads became an option (ie, not since the early 90s!)
  15. GTSBoy
    I see now that it is liquid. Highly recommended. I have 25Neo in mine. It is nice to have some torque, any torque at all. Something that the RB20 is just completely bereft of. Mine will** pull away from 800rpm in 5th. Same rolling start is best done in 2nd with a 20! **Will, and does regularly. Might even be able to do it from 600 rpm, but that's not really all that feasible in traffic where it would take a bit too long, and is the only place where I roll around that gently. RB30 even better! (Perhaps just not under a 32 bonnet).
  16. GTSBoy
    The autos suck. Anyone with an auto wants to go manual. Also, the one thing you don't really need to change is the dash. You don't really need to know (on the dash) what gear position you have selected. What you do have to change is the tailshaft, a bunch of wiring, probably gearbox crossmember, a bunch of fiddly shit like the spigot bearing in the back end of the crank, find a flex plate and a converter, etc. A whole lot of pain. Most of those autos have been rightfully put into metal recycling bins, so they're not exactly easy to find either.
  17. GTSBoy
    Where's the other half?
  18. GTSBoy
    Shit's f**ked. Looks like there might be a crack to the intake valve seat on the opposite side of the chamber also. Defo pull the whole thing down. Nothing good can come from just doing the head on a motor with comp figures that low anyway. You'll hate yourself less in the long run.
  19. GTSBoy
    The 5 spd AWD boxes are all like-for like. They might not all be identical (covering >10 yrs of production means that many parts were updated as they went) but they are the same thing. You're not going to be swapping to auto.
  20. GTSBoy
    Haltech -> Halaltech -> Kebabtech, particularly given Haltech's physical and usage location coinciding with the Lebanese population concentration in Western Sydney.
  21. GTSBoy
    Your question really depends on what you mean by "motorsport". Whether they are competitive or not will depend entirely on the ruleset. WTAC has some pretty no-holds-barred rules where lightness and simplicity can be a benefit. The R35 is nether of those things. Pick another competition with some other ruleset, and R35 will smash the others. Pick another, and something else will do it.
  22. GTSBoy
    I was going to say, "What am I looking at?"....then I saw it. Um.... dismantle and have a look? I've not seen that before. Looks broken.
  23. GTSBoy
    OK. I can see that being the case. But if you live in the land of "only switching between 4.08, 4.11, 4.36" like most Skyliners, then you never encounter it. Now I perhaps understand why the crownwheel is thicker on some of the smaller numerical ratio diffs. The two stubs being the same (unequal) lengths and just swapped side to side between the different cases is a new one to me. I'm hating Nissan R200s more than ever now.
  24. GTSBoy
    Actually, the best option is probably to get some of the stronger aftermarket driveshafts that have both the 5x1 and 3x2 pattern on them, so OP can do whatever the hell OP likes with the diff in the future and not have all this angst. I posted a link to them sometime in the last 2 weeks, I'm sure.
  25. GTSBoy
    AFAIK, the length of the shafts has NOTHING to do with the ratio of the diff.
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