GTSBoy

I see now that it is liquid. Highly recommended. I have 25Neo in mine. It is nice to have some torque, any torque at all. Something that the RB20 is just completely bereft of. Mine will** pull away from 800rpm in 5th. Same rolling start is best done in 2nd with a 20! **Will, and does regularly. Might even be able to do it from 600 rpm, but that's not really all that feasible in traffic where it would take a bit too long, and is the only place where I roll around that gently. RB30 even better! (Perhaps just not under a 32 bonnet).

The autos suck. Anyone with an auto wants to go manual. Also, the one thing you don't really need to change is the dash. You don't really need to know (on the dash) what gear position you have selected. What you do have to change is the tailshaft, a bunch of wiring, probably gearbox crossmember, a bunch of fiddly shit like the spigot bearing in the back end of the crank, find a flex plate and a converter, etc. A whole lot of pain. Most of those autos have been rightfully put into metal recycling bins, so they're not exactly easy to find either.

Where's the other half?

Shit's f**ked. Looks like there might be a crack to the intake valve seat on the opposite side of the chamber also. Defo pull the whole thing down. Nothing good can come from just doing the head on a motor with comp figures that low anyway. You'll hate yourself less in the long run.

The 5 spd AWD boxes are all like-for like. They might not all be identical (covering >10 yrs of production means that many parts were updated as they went) but they are the same thing. You're not going to be swapping to auto.

Haltech -> Halaltech -> Kebabtech, particularly given Haltech's physical and usage location coinciding with the Lebanese population concentration in Western Sydney.

Your question really depends on what you mean by "motorsport". Whether they are competitive or not will depend entirely on the ruleset. WTAC has some pretty no-holds-barred rules where lightness and simplicity can be a benefit. The R35 is nether of those things. Pick another competition with some other ruleset, and R35 will smash the others. Pick another, and something else will do it.

I was going to say, "What am I looking at?"....then I saw it. Um.... dismantle and have a look? I've not seen that before. Looks broken.

OK. I can see that being the case. But if you live in the land of "only switching between 4.08, 4.11, 4.36" like most Skyliners, then you never encounter it. Now I perhaps understand why the crownwheel is thicker on some of the smaller numerical ratio diffs. The two stubs being the same (unequal) lengths and just swapped side to side between the different cases is a new one to me. I'm hating Nissan R200s more than ever now.

Actually, the best option is probably to get some of the stronger aftermarket driveshafts that have both the 5x1 and 3x2 pattern on them, so OP can do whatever the hell OP likes with the diff in the future and not have all this angst. I posted a link to them sometime in the last 2 weeks, I'm sure.

AFAIK, the length of the shafts has NOTHING to do with the ratio of the diff.

Well, maybe not. The main feature of Chinese manufacture seems to be incredibly variable quality, coupled with an apparent willingness to find a way to sell even the stuff that fails QC. So the military could still take the cream of the production run and somehow sell the "sellable but not really useable" stuff to the stupid round eyes on the other side of the world.

Yes. This engine cost a very large amount of money to build. It's a Frankenstein necessitating lots of custom parts and lots of fabrication and fettling to get things like big ends to clear the bottom of the bore, etc etc. The rods and bolts were supplied by the owner. Hence why the rods were Chinesium. Some lessons need to be learned the (very, very) hard way, apparently. I was aware of the stories going back about that far as well. I just wanted to see if the reality was as bad as the fear.

It's in the bloody domain name twice! Yes...the GTR boxen have, for some reason, been cheaper than the RWD boxen for a long time. 10 years ago the GTST box was available here for <AU$3k. 5 years ago the GTT box was available for ~AU$3300. Both retail through 3rd party. Now the GTT box is >4k locally and only available for less if you're willing to jump through some hoops. Apparently they can be ordered from Nissan dealers for $3-3.5k at trade pricing. A friend of mine has a new GTT box sitting on his showroom floor that I keep wanting to hit him up for but I'd somewhat rather he sold it to someone else at his asking price than to me for a mate's rates discount.

Hi Gents, Someone I know (experienced engine builder) built an engine. It had some chinesium rods that came with ARP 2000 bolts. One failed on the dyno, destroyed the whole thing. The only possibilities are: Installation error. Possible, but we should discount it almost 100% because he knows what he's doing. He doesn't discount it that much, because he's being hard on himself. QC/QA problems with ARP products. I'd like to discount this, but I have heard a number of stories about similar failures, and stories of some builders buying 2 sets of everything, x-raying everything, and picking only those bolts that they are completely happy with. This behaviour coming from anecdotal stories of ~1% failure rates. 1% of all rod bolts failing would be about 1000x higher than I would expect to be anywhere near tolerable. If I were ARP I certainly wouldn't even be selling the product if they were dying at that rate (for non-installation error reasons). So, I would prefer to discount that possibility too. Fakes. Specifically, fakes being sold bundled with cheap rods sets from CCP factory B in Shenzen, or wherever the stuff is being made this week. So the question here is, does anyone else have some horror stories that would point to fakes being circulated in this manner?

That's tempting to me, but I don't know how to not f**k you around, given I'm interstate.

Yes, well, then the possibly lean(er) look of #6 makes sense. #4 looks oil wet, not rich.

There are no $1000 options, if that's what you're asking.

Has this got an FFP?

Define "Nissan big brakes". You just mean standard R34 4 pots? And...it's not even the offset you need to worry about. It's really a detail of how much clearance there is between the caliper and the back of the spoke/face, which is affected more by the design of the spoke than it is by the offset. If you think about it....take any wheel, say a 19x8 that does fit and clears the caliper. Then add or subtract an inch of wheel on the outside, without changing anything else. You have changed the offset by half an inch, but not changed the clearance situation at all. Same for if you add or subtract an inch from the inside edge. The way for you to work this out is to take a wheel off the car, grab a straight edge and a ruler or two, and start to measure the distances from the wheel mounting face on the hub to the outer face of the caliper, and the outer diameter (that faces the barrel of the wheel) of the caliper. Armed with these dimensions and any other measurement that grabs your fancy while you are there, you can then go to the seller of the wheels and do the reverse measurements from the wheel's mounting face and see if there will be clearance to the caliper. There really should be. I have 17x8 RPF1s +35 clearing the caliper face by a finger tip. Those wheels do have pretty thin spokes with some curvature.... but then so do most wheels to suit Jap cars.

Mmmm. Perhaps more correctly stated that the one turbo doesn't actually force air back down the throat of the other. All it does, and all it has to do, is be pumping a little harder than the other turbo (which is an effect of how the turbos are getting driven by the exhaust and inherent resistance to output air flow that each turbo sees up to the merge). If the turbo that is not flowing quite as much then nudges the stall line (because it gets pushed there by the higher flowing one stealing the limelight and moving its own operating point further from the stall line), then you get the behaviour described by Josh. There is no need for air to move backwards in any way. It just needs to be less air moving forwards than is required to stay to the right of the surge line.

And if you have to drive it in a civilised (or excessively woke) US state, find a way to register and insure it in a redneck state, so you can roll coal in it without worrying about legalities.

I have seen the aftermath of a rotten old stock fan. It took apart the shroud, wrecked some other stuff (PS or A/C, IIRC) and damaged the bonnet. Not ideal. Sometimes they die more gracefully. Sometimes they live for years and years looking like they should come apart. The GKTech fan is not different to how it ever was. At least as far as I know. Whether it is any good or not is more a question of what climate you're using it in. In Canuckistan it seldom gets hot enough for the capability of the fan to matter as much as it does here in Fourex. So you should be able to use it without too much concern. You can always sell it to a driftkid in an S14 if you don't like it.

For more clarity - because the sedan tailights are square-cornered where the coupe ones are round, and because the coupe boot lid doesn't work on the sedan, the method to do this has been to cut the sedan bootlid/reshape that part where they are different. Plus more f**king around. There are old threads on here such as where it gets discussed and it hardly seems worth the pain.

Yuh, so... it's not a done thing.