GTSBoy

So, as I said. Buy a Yaris and drive that until your time is up. Then you can have a turbo, without needing to cut its balls off and then try to stitch them back on.

Just take the caliper to ABS or some other brake shop and get what you need. If you really want to know the part numbers, then get Nissan FAST (download and install it) then look the part numbers up on that.

It would be legal. Pain in the arse to do. Better off leaving it turbo, buying a Yaris and driving that around until you're old enough.

It just screws in to the plastic of the glovebox surround. The screws are just the usual dark olive coloured dome head tapered self tappers used all over the interior, that screw into holes in plastic. In your photo above, you can see the plunger for the light switch. The catch should butt up against the plastic and the two holes should be visible. If they're not, then it is broken and you will have to build it back up somehow.

Sikaflex

Hence why I tell people to go to a real workshop when they need to do these things - because workshops who rely on interrogating CUs to find out what is wrong are the only ones that can afford the kit to do it.

BOVs (in OEM applications) have never been about preventing turbo damage. On Nissans, the better term for a BOV is "compressor bypass". What they actually do is; Allow air to flow around the compressor (instead of through it, with the restriction on flow that that presents before the compressor is spinning fast enough to not be an obstruction) which gets air into the engine easier/faster allowing it to generate exhaust gas flow faster and get the turbine spinning the compressor earlier - AND simultaneously, because the air is not flowing through the compressor the mechanical load on the compressor is reduced and that allows it to spin up with less drive power from the turbine. Result - reduced boost threshold. Vent the air on gear changes or throttle modulations back to the inlet of the compressor to do the obvious thing, which is prevent the back pressure from slowing the compressor, but the return of the air passing through the compressor also helps to keep it spinning as well - so a double advantage there. These effects are small, but they must have been noticeable enough for the OEMs to bother putting recirc valves onto these engines, because otherwise the complexity looks unwieldy and unnecessary.

Various subframe bushes. These are all viable options. OEM bushes would be similar pricing. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Whiteline-Rear-Subframe-Bush-Mount-Kit-W92446-fits-NISSAN-SKYLINE-R32-R33-R34/182367596068?fits=Plat_Gen%3AR32&epid=25017000709&hash=item2a75f4ae24:g:QQYAAOSwLghZt-vl https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SuperPro-Rear-Subframe-Mount-Bush-Kit-Fits-Nissan-SPF3774K/152475195902?epid=25017000314&hash=item23803ad9fe https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HARDRACE-Rear-Subframe-Bush-Harden-Rubber-S13-S14-S15-R32-R33-R34-Z32/332207660763?epid=608591038&hash=item4d591e9edb:g:wZwAAOSwONBZDDms Various diff bushes. Same thinking as above. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SUPERPRO-SKYLINE-R32-R33-R34-2WD-REAR-DIFF-REAR-BUSH-BUSHING-KIT-CROSS-MEMBER/112509022194?epid=28017011598&hash=item1a320f6ff2:g:Yk8AAOSwHnFVn3Ea https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NOLATHANE-Rr-DIFF-SUPPORT-MOUNT-BUSHES-SUIT-SKYLINE-R-32-33-34-GTS-GTR-AWD-49162/191681010188?epid=1550428335&hash=item2ca1141a0c:g:Vz8AAMXQQUpRCgZM https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ZSS-Rear-Diff-Support-Member-Bushes-Nissan-S14-S15-R32-R33-R34-Z32/371515134157?epid=610886258&hash=item56800710cd:g:GXoAAOSwUdlWejLK https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/WHITELINE-Diff-support-R-BUSHES-KDT913-FIT-NISSAN-GTR-R32-R33-R34-RB26DETT/360903073105?hash=item54077fdd51:g:rzkAAOSw4A5Y1IVN I think it's easy to see how you can spend $500 on the bushes. A day for a mechanic to drop and strip a subframe enough to push these bushes in and out and then refit and get it wheel aligned and shit might sound outrageous.....but it's not really.

And if you have to you can always work out the rate using the method in the stickied thread above. It's easier on coilover springs than typical OEM springs. GTRs also usually do NOT have rates like 7F 6R. They are usually very soft in the rear compared to the front (compared to the RWD Skylines). This because heavy, understeery blob. There are 2 schools of thought with this stuff too. Heavy springs and lighter ARBs, or lighter springs and heavy ARBs. Both give you the same overall roll stiffness, but of course one is much more compliant (with reduced left-right independence) and the other is tuned for faster bumps and has better left-right independence. I recently softened the rear bar from a 24mm adjustable to a 22mm adjustable and made the car much better to drive. Made both ends feel better, which was unexpected. I tend to think that really stiff ARBs are more trouble than they are worth.

I can point you to a good mechanic on Adelaide's north side if you need. Diagnosing this sort of crap across the internet is usually more frustrating than helpful and it almost always turns out to be something other than what was suggested by the helpers. Your problem could be caused by dead coilpacks, dying fuel pump, crappy AFM, a massive vacuum leak, dirty injectors, or something as simple as badly set timing.

Have you looked at the thread? The one at the top of the forum? The one with all the RB26 turbo swap results?

First things first, don't be trusting the wideband unless you have cross checked it with another. There are various things that can be wrong and make it read wrong. So check it before trusting it! Second....assuming the AFR is real, it might be recent. All the past thrashing might have been done with enough fuel and the pump is only just dying now, or the filter only just dirty enough to cost flow now, etc etc. Third. 11 psi is they max that you should consider running on an R33 for a number of reasons. But assuming that everything is actually working, I would expect that the injector duty cycle would be 100% or thereabouts for 6000rpm and 11 psi. That's because the mixtures are already rich under boost and going to 11psi only pushes you further up the map into a region that Nissan flooded with fuel to prevent people hurting the engine. If you could look at the standard R33 map in Nistune (which you can't, but you can look at an R34 one) the commanded duty cycles are flat out up there. But, yes, assuming the mixture is real, running it under full load for more than a couple of second should lead to detonation and engine damage pretty quickly.

You're unlikely to find the answer here. The Aust government does have plenty of info on various websites regarding what overseas qualifications are accepted here and what are not. Japanese qualifications stand a reasonable chance, so long as they align with the "quality" of the Australian ones. Mechanics here are expected to do a 3 year apprenticeship. That is 3 years at work with regular classwork at a college across that time. Both the classwork and the workplace experience are required. If your 2 year course is only classwork, it will not likely be accepted without also having real job experience. But don't take my (possibly inaccurate) word for it. Google to find the appropriate info from the Oz gov websites.

I'd just replace the sphericals. Nismo arms are nothing special at all. Just slightly shorter versions of the stockers. Money for nothing. If you know what make & model the sphericals are, you can source them and replace them easily enough.

Just try it. It can't get any worse than it is now!

Put it on the dyno and find out what the mixtures and timing actually are across the load/rev range, then decide if it needs tuning or if you should go back to the drawing board wrt turbo selection, etc, as per Johnny's post.

It shouldn't be bad, therefore something is wrong. Therefore the path to improvement involves fixing the wrong. Super stiff (Jap brand in particular) coilovers are frequently a bad choice, being just harsh, bouncy and nasty. Fixing may involve binning them and replacing with something more appropriate, such as a suitable offering from MCA. But I would strongly suggest you take it to a good suspension workshop and get a survey of what is there, what is good and what is bad, because we can tell you 1000 things and not all of them are going to apply to what you have right now. Same with the brakes.

I don't think anyone has done anything for any CU other than the ECU. Your best bet is just to take it to a mechanic who has a proper scan tool. Snap-on and all the other good brands can see these other CUs and interrogate them. I've done it on R32 TCU, HICAS.

I would be unlikely to expect that the bushes in a Nismo FUCA would be any different to the bushes in the original arm. The arms are the same, just a different length. The compliance of the original bushes is required to cope with the horrible forces put into them by the geometry problems of the R32 suspension design as it travels through its arc. In my long experience of f**king about with these things, the adjustable SuperPro et al bushes for the stock arms are a good thing. They give you a little bit of adjustment. If it's enough, that's great. If it's not enough then you put up with not having the camber you want. But the urethane bushes are fine - when you keep in mind that they won't last forever. I have had them in my car (until recently) almost since they first became available nearly 20 years ago. I had to install grease nipples on the arm ends to allow me to pump them full of grease without a complete disassemble, which is absolutely required. They wear out in a few years. You have to keep an eye on them and replace the urethane parts. They also squeak a bit when they're dry - which is half the reason for the greasers. I have just put GKTech FUCAs on the car. These are excellent, except that I have spent more time working on them in the last few months than I have ever spent on the FUCAs in nearly 20 years. Urethane bushes in the rear are fine. I've had them in there, again for >15 years, only just recently replaced with Hardrace adjustable arms so that I could obtain proper control over camber and bump steer. I would actually highly recommend Hardrace arms in the rear, with the rubber bushes, not the spherical joints. Sphericals are great, but they are not well suited to road cars (and a loooong way from legal unless engineered).

Usage model? For near stock street, then new OEM or Splitfire. For leaning on it really hard, new R35 GTR or Audi or Yaris pencil coils with mounting plate and wiring adapter kit. You can find several of these with some searching. The only one that "bothers" me is the Golebys one that claims to use genuine Bosch Yaris coils. I find this interesting, as Yaris (in fact pretty much all Toyota) coils are made by Denso. A Bosch equivalent would be a good coil, but I can't imagine how it can be "genuine".

There's not really any difference. A retune of a working install only fixes what needs fixing. Both those recommendations for tuners would still stand.

Wow. So much information in this thread that is just a little bit wrong (except for one post above - I'll leave you guys to work out which one I'm talking about). And this after the real information has been known for like.....25 years. Point 1. Resetting an R32 ECU by pulling the power and putting it back on after long enough for the capacitors to drain has precisely zero useful effect. The ECU will lose its learnt long term fuel trims, which will possibly make it run worse in the immediate short term. But whether you do the zap or not, the ECU will learn the trims back to wherever they need to be AT THE SAME SPEED! it might even take longer if you flatten the caps. Point 2. R32 ceramic turbos, like all other ceramic turns, can die at ANY BOOST LEVEL AT ALL. At any age and after any usage history they can die at stock boost (10 psi), or anything up to 20 psi. If you choose to try to run it at 20 psi it will probably die within a few minutes. I ran mine at 14 psi for years and years. In the middle of that it even ran for a while at 17 psi for a while. I consider myself lucky that it didn't explode at 17. But it was fine at 14. Others have exploded for no apparent reason without being boosted. Point 3. Nissan ECUs of the era are tuned very rich and very retarded in the top-right hand corner of the maps. They are of course rich in the normal stock area of the maps, and they only get richer as you add boost. This is not a good thing. This does not mean that you have "fuelling" to spare to keep adding boost without worrying about a tune. The problems are in fact multiple; a) Rich is slow. You can add boost and not get any extra power. What you are doing is wasting fuel. I ran 14 psi for ages without tuning the car. With Nistune in it and all the extra fuel removed from the top end of the map, it made 15 rwkW more. b) If you look at the RB20 fuel maps in Nistune, you can see how much of the top right corner of the map is actually aimed at 100% injector duty cycle or more. What this means is that there isn't actually as much "spare capacity" as people expect. All that is required is that the fuel pump goes a bit soft or the filter gets a bit too dirty and you can very rapidly fall off the rich cliff into the lean ocean and toast the engine. And people who run their cars like this very seldom have any form of AFR monitoring installed. c) There's more, but thinking about the nature of the problems is self-educatory. So worth a try anyway.

The importer who put that sticker on the car is a fu(king moron.

Bullshit. 100 RON is the good stuff in Japan going back decades. No RB turbo will run happily on <95. Timing should be 15-20 depending on auto manual. 10 is still bad, indicating the ECU is pulling timing to (try to) control idle. Idle speed should be ~650rpm hot. Codes are listed on various web pages and in the R34 manual, which can also be googled and downloaded.

Nooooo! It can't be that easy!