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GTSBoy

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Everything posted by GTSBoy

  1. GTSBoy
    Whodaf*k would put a 225 on a 20" rim?
  2. GTSBoy
    Fuse blown.
  3. GTSBoy
    The pipework for these bleeder systems wants to be as small as will work, because the flow bypasses the main circuit, resulting in less flow where you would prefer it (radiator, engine, whatever is being bypassed).
  4. GTSBoy
    Look at what Darren does for the money I linked. Think about the value of the new/replacement/aftermarket parts that go into it, vs. what it would cost to renew or recondition original parts (with original parts in the case of renew/replace) - which is going to still be a significant fraction of the upgraded parts. Then consider that almost all the labour still has to be done. It's not possible to do this stuff for less than quite a few thousand unless you are able to do the labour yourself and have access to parts that won't cost you much. As a retail proposition, it's time to sell blood/semen/kidneys/arms/legs for most people.
  5. GTSBoy
    I didn't say that the TT and the alarm/immobiliser were attached. What I said was that a thief cannot drive a car running on its turbo timer away, if it will stop as soon as he releases the handbrake. The TT accepts a signal from the handbrake wire as an interlock. That's all.
  6. GTSBoy
    No. Think about it. You leave your car running on the timer. Thiefy smashes a window and jumps in and drives it away. If he has to drop the handbrake to drive it, and dropping the handbrake will stop the engine instantly.....then no drivey.
  7. GTSBoy
    It's gunna cost lots. This is what it costs to do a minimal upgrade build. A "stock" rebuild will still cost a good fraction of that - at least half.
  8. GTSBoy
    Anti-theft. Stops the engine as soon as thiefy drops the handbrake.
  9. GTSBoy
    They do get to the point where they stop letting the air come through though.
  10. GTSBoy
    The coils fit but it's not the coils doing it.
  11. GTSBoy
    Of course you should do that. 8:1 is 1980s CR for boost. But you won't get that increase by changing the head. You'll need pistons. 20% increase in capacity means a 20% increase in head flow wouldn't be a bad idea. Easily achieved with sensible porting. 1mm bigger valves gives the perfect opportunity to properly do the seat angles and shape the bowl into the back of the seats. And there goes 5 grand.
  12. GTSBoy
    A loose wire with a quick connect on it implies not original. So you're guess as good as ours. You have the advantage of being able to follow it back to where it came from and report back on what you find.
  13. GTSBoy
    I'd be willing to bet that there is no difference between early and late R345 loom plugs anywhere.
  14. GTSBoy
    Some bits bolt on. Some bits are welded on. Have a look at your car and try to work it out for yourself.
  15. GTSBoy
    Bullshit. You should not have to move your torso to steer.
  16. GTSBoy
    That centre only works with the equal length stubs from the open R200s. I think that the splines on them are different to the Nismo LSD splines. You may be shit out of luck or have to buy an open diff to harvest the stubs and hope they're strong enough. Oh...but the open stubs are all 3x2 bolt, not 5 bolt.
  17. GTSBoy
    What diff centre are you using? The GTR one? As far as I know, there are no Quaifes for the non-GTR versions. FWIW, the stock VLSD has uneven length splines, unlike the GTR diff (or any other similar mech LSD) which are even length. Which is why when you buy a Nismo diff for these cars (for example) you get supplied new stub axles to suit, as you can't make a mech type centre take the long stub that works in the viscous centre.
  18. GTSBoy
    That's the part. I helped grind the end off and drive the rest out of an R33 the other day. Good riddance. Stupid f**king design on Nissan's behalf. There are a dozen better ways they could have done it (including never putting HICAS on in the first place!)
  19. GTSBoy
    I believe he is talking about early and late R34s, which are not as different as S1 and S2 R33s. I'm pretty sure he's not talking about cross pollinating R33 stuff onto a Neo.
  20. GTSBoy
    I can't imagine why anyone would waste the effort required to poor an S14 diff (the stock one) into a Skyline. Does the invoice describe the diff in any other terms? If it is an aftermarket centre that was intended for an S14, but got put in to the R34 CW&P and housing, then that's a whole 'nother thing.
  21. GTSBoy
    No you don't. As in, you don't need to replace them. Piss of the HICAS altogether. Eliminator kits come with something to go back in where those bushes come out of (with a lot of violence!)
  22. GTSBoy
    Neither S14s nor R34s have mechanical LSDs with "teeth*". They are viscous** and they are poo anyway (when new) and only get worse as they get older. They are not "fixable", as no-one would bother going to the effort to repair a viscous centre. The ratio on an S14 diff is also very tall, so your speedo should be reading very low cf. your actual speed. All in all, it's enough to wonder if it is true that you have an S14 diff in there. Do some reading on here for the millions of recommendations on what to do for diffs in these cars. Thousands and thousands of threads. * Lots of teeth actually - but they are not what makes it "slip" or not slip. Broken teeth = insta-death for most diffs. ** Unless a rare R34 with a helical diff.
  23. GTSBoy
    Putting a stainless sleeve into a master along with a new seal kit takes a couple of hours at a brake specialist.
  24. GTSBoy
    This. It will be this.
  25. GTSBoy
    Do you still want to be able to drive it?
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