GTSBoy

Define "Nissan big brakes". You just mean standard R34 4 pots? And...it's not even the offset you need to worry about. It's really a detail of how much clearance there is between the caliper and the back of the spoke/face, which is affected more by the design of the spoke than it is by the offset. If you think about it....take any wheel, say a 19x8 that does fit and clears the caliper. Then add or subtract an inch of wheel on the outside, without changing anything else. You have changed the offset by half an inch, but not changed the clearance situation at all. Same for if you add or subtract an inch from the inside edge. The way for you to work this out is to take a wheel off the car, grab a straight edge and a ruler or two, and start to measure the distances from the wheel mounting face on the hub to the outer face of the caliper, and the outer diameter (that faces the barrel of the wheel) of the caliper. Armed with these dimensions and any other measurement that grabs your fancy while you are there, you can then go to the seller of the wheels and do the reverse measurements from the wheel's mounting face and see if there will be clearance to the caliper. There really should be. I have 17x8 RPF1s +35 clearing the caliper face by a finger tip. Those wheels do have pretty thin spokes with some curvature.... but then so do most wheels to suit Jap cars.

Mmmm. Perhaps more correctly stated that the one turbo doesn't actually force air back down the throat of the other. All it does, and all it has to do, is be pumping a little harder than the other turbo (which is an effect of how the turbos are getting driven by the exhaust and inherent resistance to output air flow that each turbo sees up to the merge). If the turbo that is not flowing quite as much then nudges the stall line (because it gets pushed there by the higher flowing one stealing the limelight and moving its own operating point further from the stall line), then you get the behaviour described by Josh. There is no need for air to move backwards in any way. It just needs to be less air moving forwards than is required to stay to the right of the surge line.

And if you have to drive it in a civilised (or excessively woke) US state, find a way to register and insure it in a redneck state, so you can roll coal in it without worrying about legalities.

I have seen the aftermath of a rotten old stock fan. It took apart the shroud, wrecked some other stuff (PS or A/C, IIRC) and damaged the bonnet. Not ideal. Sometimes they die more gracefully. Sometimes they live for years and years looking like they should come apart. The GKTech fan is not different to how it ever was. At least as far as I know. Whether it is any good or not is more a question of what climate you're using it in. In Canuckistan it seldom gets hot enough for the capability of the fan to matter as much as it does here in Fourex. So you should be able to use it without too much concern. You can always sell it to a driftkid in an S14 if you don't like it.

For more clarity - because the sedan tailights are square-cornered where the coupe ones are round, and because the coupe boot lid doesn't work on the sedan, the method to do this has been to cut the sedan bootlid/reshape that part where they are different. Plus more f**king around. There are old threads on here such as where it gets discussed and it hardly seems worth the pain.

Yuh, so... it's not a done thing.

I would say 100% that it doesn't matter at all. I have an Al bonnet and I drop it sometimes, push it others. Have done so for 25 years and there's no way to tell that either has caused any problems (because there are no problems).

Shouldn't be. CAS can't make the engine run fast. It will either run or it won't. (Ignoring possible high load/rpm signal jitter problems).

look again

Massive arsed vacuum leak.

50L plastic butcher's bins with or w/o lids are good for storing various parts and smaller boxes of part on shelves. I've taken to writing a manifest on blank paper in texta and sticking it on the front of any such box, whether it is that sort of tub or just a cardboard box. Ditto to smaller boxes inside. I can not give you ideas on how to be more ruthless or better organised than that, because I suspect that my shed is worse than yours.

Was correct without the edit.

All 4 wires from the head unit into the converter. That's both channels, so you do not lose any bass information that might be in one channel and not the other (which decent music should have, but I'm sure the shit that the kids these days are listening to probably doesn't). Connecting both channels with alleviate the floating input problem highlighted by Greg above. As to what you should do with the outputs from it - they should also both be connected to 2 input channels of an amp that can sum the two channels and yield a single low passed output to a single channel. There is often a switch on channel amps to achieve that goal. If you're just listening to modern electronic music, then you can probably ignore the fact that there's two channels and just listen to one of them. If there is missing information it will probably only improve it by not being able to hear it anyway.

You don't think he should leave it to torch the heat hoses?

You do not need an LSD oil in any stock (non-GTR) diff, even if it is an "LSD". This because none of the (non-GTR) LSDs are clutch/friction type LSDs. Either viscous or helical - neither of which require an LSD oil.

Yes, well, wrt a wheel alignment, there are two types. Either: You have very little added adjustables, in which case the alignment can be done by anyone in any tyre shop or equivalent, and will only take 30 minutes, and so there is no reason to even consider leaving the car there. OR: The alignment is a major exercise because you have adjustables everywhere and so you will need to be taking it to a shop that is skilled and experienced at setting up race cars and the like, and you won't need to worry about leaving the car there.

Find whoever is the US equivalent of Shockworks. Or, just get them from Melbourne, Oz.

Most of us just buy or make the flange and weld it to the actual pipework that we're making the cooler pipe out of. A flange like that can be made with hand tools if need be.

Wrong. FFPs flow very differently to the stock plenum and it's a very long way from ideal to not address the per-cylinder mixture changes that result.

https://www.efisolutions.com.au/injector-lower-manifold-collars-adapters-r33-a32-y?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIjpXb2aLaiAMVYcA8Ah1zkg6JEAQYASABEgJzG_D_BwE

Yup. She's toast. You need refrigerant to carry the compressor oil to stop the thing from welding itself together.

Sadly, it won't happen. The AC controls in our cars are essentially on-off. Whereas the AC in new stuff is more a case of variable displacement compressors giving infinitely variable output.

I don't know if anyone was seriously suggesting a retrofit of an Echo compressor in place of a more-or-less working original comp. You'd have to change the hoses at the bare minimum to do so, and that will definitely add significant cost. I had to get my hoses modded when I did the engine transplant and chose to use the Neo's AC over the even older R32 comp. That was startlingly more expensive than expected for what looks like a simple welding job, and a massive pain in the arse when it turned to have a pinhole leak in the weld too. The Frenchie's kit is for people who have next to nothing of the original system or have more than that but some of it is a bit shit and better off thrown away than salvaged. If you've got 90% of the system, you just patch it up. Mine is currently degassed because it apparently has a big leak somewhere. If I find it is the compressor, I will be looking to take my spare comp to a shop to assess and/or recondition, rather than contemplating a retrofit to anything off-brand.

Yeah, this shit is the reason dry ice blasting was invented.

Yeah, The Japanese had/have a problem with doing crap like that to undeserving shitboxen.