GTSBoy

Yes, as above. The welding is an easy enough job. Proper reupholstering, perhaps less so. These, and pretty much all seats of the same era (and probably still) rely on molded foam parts to make the shapes. That foam is the yellow detritus visible in the photos. And it is difficult to replicate. I didn't want the pain, so went aftermarket seats instead. But for "saving a classic".... it's probably worth the kidney and left nut that a trimmer will want to redo them.

Nope, but they are definitely one of the default choices. Well established.

I can't believe that anyone is foolish enough to believe that the base maps are for any other purpose than to drive the car up onto the trailer/truck or gently creep it to the dyno. No matter how good they are, they can never be any better than the factory maps**, and only the foolish trust those on a significantly modified setup. **Yeah, yeah. I know there's also the difference between factory maps being fixed to certain injector sizes and MAP/AFM/VE relationships, and the likely aftermarket ECU base maps being better able to handle the sorts of changes that would render a stock ECU dangerous, like different sized injectors. But let's just ignore that for the moment, because the principle is still the same.

Nice. Straight and dent free is what you want. The rest is easier to clean up.

Serial number. Increments by 1 on each block.

Well, that is something that we've been trying to tell you is a complete boondoggle anyway. Just give it up and worry about things that matter.

^That is a good thing. But it was never going to be any harder than putting a T piece and elbow either side of the flex sensor with a piece of -4 or -6 in parallel. Probably end up costing more with all the fittings, so that Radium thing is probably the right answer.

My favourite tuner has sworn he will kill me if I put a Haltech in the car. He has had so much shit over the years (and I have seen some of it myself, directly) that he just won't play any more. I mean, he still tunes the stuff, but he won't facilitate anyone joining the club.

There is no situation - totally stock / intake and exhaust / screaming full house monster - that is not improved by the ability to tune out the horribleness that is Nissan's stock R&R. So, yes, Nistune at a minimum. But if you're going to go to that effort on something that is going to cost many tens of thousands of $$, you might as well drop a couple more grand on an ECU.

Anything with black wires, rolling codes and dual immobilisation will do. Any such thing is only going to be an annoyance to someone who really wants to take the car. They will take it at gunpoint, or lift the keys from inside the house, or skulldrag it onto a flatbed if they really want it and don't want to deal with the alarm needing to be silenced and sidestepped before they can drive it away. I put a really loud piezo screamer in under the dashboard, exactly where you would need to be trying to work on the wiring, just to cause as much trouble as I could. Beyond that, these days you're probably best off finding a way to immobilise it yourself, manually, if and when you have to leave it somewhere. Hidden switches, ECU keypads used for code entry, etc etc, are all reasonable ideas.

Is a dirty cheese eating surrender monkey in drag.

It's been years since that bit was true.

There's no twin scroll on the OEM turbos. On the manifold, kinda, yes. Not on the turbos.

Yeah - the Hitachi core is huge (long) and the core Tao uses is quite short, so the compressor housing moves backwards. But I wouldn't let that stop me. In fact, I didn't. But I imagine that the correct thing to do is to go for the latest G series on an Artec manifold. In V band. And f**k the twin scroll, because short short Artec manifold runners + easy install/removal/adjustment outweigh the small loss in spool.

No. You can't fit aftermarket rails onto Nissan seats. Not without way more pain than many more sensible options, anyway. FWIW, I bought some R34 seats to put into my R32, and I didn't like the look of what needed to be done to make them fit. It's not just "mod one hole", because they don't sit flat anyway. So I pissed them off and put in some Bride reps, which is a far superior outcome.

Sounds like it has an actual problem with mode select doors, or something.

Nah nah nah nah. Don't do it. It's not all about the full throttle power delivery. The main "street fun" and drivability gains from smaller rear (in this case) is how you will have boost available from a low rpm when yo just roll onto the throttle. Think jinking in and out of traffic, coming out of roundabouts, etc etc, where you just want to roll onto the throttle a little and have the spooly noise from ~2000rpm and a swell of torque. More of what you've already achieved by going to 2.5. And then, towards the tail end of 2025 you can pull the turbo 4 out and put in a V8 like we originally suggested. :P

This should be pretty easy. 200rwkW is just about the max power out of an RB25 stock turbo. So, 12ish psi on a 2.5L. That boost limited mainly by the prospect of seeing the turbine in the cat after the smoke show. A steel wheeled equivalent would likely happily do ~220rwkW at something like 17 psi, where it would probably be bumping into the usual limits of such a sized turbo. These things have like a .48 rear. You will not need the 0.86 rear. The 0.64 will be fine. In fact, if you were looking at various mid-200rwkW options for RBs, most of them would be in a 0.64 rear. So, I think you will definitely want to be no bigger than that for a same sized but probably even more efficient (at making power) modern engine.

It is possible to do this stuff for "cheap". But you need to be able to get deals on all the bigger items, and it really helps if you're fully capable of doing your own work. As soon as you're paying retail for new parts, or buying "kits" because you can't fabricate necessary bits and pieces, and if you really need someone else to take the reins of doing the work because you don't have the space/time/skills/confidence to rip deep into the car and put it back together in a working fashions.....then you pay. And these days, pay means a lot of money. You'd think things would get cheaper, but they don't. They just seem to keep getting more and more expensive.

I'll take clutch for 50 Eddie.

Just as bad, if not worse.

First up, I presume you mean a G35? And... This is not a 900HP fuel pump. and Why would you do this to yourself? and Almost certainly. Time for some pencil coils. It's money well spent, so long as you don't stay stuck in the 90s and consider something other than the usual Jap suspects.

Yes, while being... strictly unnecessary. Tuning is a bit like quantum physics. You don't need to understand what Schroedinger's equation actually means. You just need to run the computation and accept the answers. With tuning, you just push page up/down until the exhaust tells you that you've got the fuel right. The VE can stay hidden behind the curtain like the Wizard of Oz and you'll never need to know what he looked like.

That's a reward in some circles.

Not to mention, that the correct diagnostic approach to "electrical thing does not work" is to start with what I outlined above. You only do swaptronics for things that can't be tested really easily, like ignition coils, AFMs, etc etc. And even then you hold your breath in case the fault that possibly killed the original unit kills the swapped in unit too.