GTSBoy

Yup. She's toast. You need refrigerant to carry the compressor oil to stop the thing from welding itself together.

Sadly, it won't happen. The AC controls in our cars are essentially on-off. Whereas the AC in new stuff is more a case of variable displacement compressors giving infinitely variable output.

I don't know if anyone was seriously suggesting a retrofit of an Echo compressor in place of a more-or-less working original comp. You'd have to change the hoses at the bare minimum to do so, and that will definitely add significant cost. I had to get my hoses modded when I did the engine transplant and chose to use the Neo's AC over the even older R32 comp. That was startlingly more expensive than expected for what looks like a simple welding job, and a massive pain in the arse when it turned to have a pinhole leak in the weld too. The Frenchie's kit is for people who have next to nothing of the original system or have more than that but some of it is a bit shit and better off thrown away than salvaged. If you've got 90% of the system, you just patch it up. Mine is currently degassed because it apparently has a big leak somewhere. If I find it is the compressor, I will be looking to take my spare comp to a shop to assess and/or recondition, rather than contemplating a retrofit to anything off-brand.

Yeah, this shit is the reason dry ice blasting was invented.

Yeah, The Japanese had/have a problem with doing crap like that to undeserving shitboxen.

OK, well, being realistic: RB25DET gearbox (new, from Nissan), A$4k. Good clutch, >A$1k, possibly $2k. So, you're already into the ballpark just with those two things and to stay 5 speed. Someone has borne costs and done work to put the RB bellhousing on the CD009, and there's some other parts included. It seems like a reasonable price to me. It's not as if these things are lying around where you can just pick one up (the whole kit, readyish to go) and/or play off one vendor against another. So the pricing has to seem reasonable to both you and the seller.

But you can stand next to your strut brace with the bonnet up in the Bunnings car park and people can see it. Can't see dampers.

Yes. For sure. That way you just use the S arms and all is easy. For a streeter anyway.

You don't need an AC mechanic to fit it. You do need one to vac the system down and fill it. That's how you get refrigerant.

Well, it's actually probably worse than you think. I think you have to (minimally) install GKTech's spherical bush replacements to the lower arm's inner ends, because you absolutely cannot subject the original (or poly) bushes to that much misalignment. The better option being to replace the whole lower arm with GKTech's unit. This brings sphericals to the lower inners either way you do it. And are you aware that the kit is weld in and you have to take the subframe out of the car to get it fitted? It's a fair bit of work. These issues both drive my ongoing dithering about doing this to my car, for the last couple of years.

No. Not true for any non-GTR R32. I think even the GTS4 has the GTSt knuckles with eye type lower shock mounts (as opposed to GTR fork lower shock mounts). The only R chassis in which something like the quote claim is true is the R34, on which the turbos have the fork type and the NAs have the eye type. **Edit: Actually I reserve the right to be wrong about the above statement. It might also be true on R33s. My memory on those shitboxen has faded too much.

The vendor you bought from is a dickhead who can't tell the difference between AWD and RWD bearings. Their eBay listing is one of the first hits too, and is wrong. Any other hit shows the ones that are on your car. A search for GTR rear wheel bearings, unsurprisingly, finds the one you have from Shift. f**king muppets.

And replace the couple of broken exhaust manifold studs that you don't know are broken, etc etc.

Just take the ex manifold off.

I was going to say "What you talkin' about Willis?", on the basis that the rest of the Supra apart from the badge and the "styling" is BMW....and then I realised that there'd be no Supra chassis present anyway. So as you were.

Yes. Microtech doesn't care whether it is running separate igniter or smart coils. Just need to wire appropriately. To be clear, the wiring at the ECU is the same same. The wiring that is different is around coil connections. Even that is not all that different.

And you'd be correct. The GTV got the viscous LSD (I'm pretty sure they didn't get any helicals) and the same fork shock connection as the GTT and GTR. For all intents and purposes it's a non-turbo GTT.

Hang on, You want to put a 320km/h faceplate on a 180km/h speedo? That's not how it's done. You get a 320 km/h speedo. It's probably relatively simple for an instrumentation specialist to recal a properly electronic speedo like that, provided that there is a means provided to do so. For an older analogue/electronic speedo, the factory adjustment might be little more than a pot that allows a +/-10% tweak. A very modern digital unit might need access to the correct programming software, or simply be a dumb gauge and everything is done in the BCU. (That last won't be the case for an R34 though). But as I said - no-one changes the face of the speedo then recals. You put in the whole speedo. In fact, generally you put in a whole dash.

My point was that it was not a modification/transplant that someone had done. That it was factory. Soz. Should have made that clear.

Absolutely they are. Smaller, modern, efficient > clunky old 80s shit.

Pov spec R34s (ie, without turbo), and in particular auto ones (I think) have that silly diff with the slightly longer nose with the speed sensor on the side of the nose. I'm not even sure that it's an ABS sensor. I think it's actually the VSS sender. Anyway, it's not an S15 diff, it's whatever was jammed into the stupid things.

Doesn't need to be idling. Just needs to be throttle closed with ignition on. Same same as idle from the ECU's point of view. See, this is useful info, because this... is not. You should be able to sweep the throttle from closed to open and see it run from ~0.45V to whatever it maxes out at (which is not 5.1V, by the way - should be 4.something).

Sorry to sound thick....but what does the "faceplate" have to do with adjusting the odometer? Surely the odo stays put and you change the fascia. Surely they are not the same thing.

Yeah, it is possible. But like many related things (ie, alternators), it's getting harder to find anyone who does and will, given the change to just throwing shit away and replacing with new cheap shit from Chinese factories. If you want to pursue the option of rebuilding, you'll have to dig up an auto A/C specialist or three to find out whether they still do.

There are industrial o-ring suppliers all over that would probably have what you need, so long as you know the dimensions and material.