GTSBoy

Turn it upside down. (make sure that there's a spark plug and the valves in one chamber but without springs) Make it level. Coat the back of the valves in one chamber with vaseline. Put a light smear of vaseline around the head face around that chamber. Place a sheet of clear perspex/acrylic with a 10mm hole in the middle of it over the chamber. Set up the burette in a retort stand over the hole in the acrylic sheet. Fill burette with water. Titrate water into the chamber until it just fills the chamber, leaving no bubbles against the acrylic sheet. May have to wiggle the head a little to encourage the bubbles to come to the hole in the centre. Do not fill until the hole in the centre is full. Fill until the meniscus of the water is just into the bottom of the hole. The chamber volume will be more than the capacity of a 50cc burette. So run 50cc in, then refill the burette and run the rest in. Add the total volume. If you do not have a burette and can get hold of some decently accurate syringes, you can use those. Not as precise as using a burette. When you have the total volume of water that went into the chamber, you can calculate the chamber height difference required to give you this answer instead of the well know "stock" chamber volume for the head in question. Get the diameter of the chamber at the head face and calculate the cross sectional area. If the chamber is not round, then you will have to work out the cross sectional area via other means. Putting ink onto the head face and making a print of the chamber could be the first step that would allow yo to use precise scales or a scanner and some software or any of a range of other techniques to get the cross sectional area. The cross sectional area, multiplied by a small vertical distance, will give you a volume equal to the missing chamber volume. This might be as little as 0.1mm or it might be 1mm, or any other number. Either do it via trial and error or rearrange the equations to solve for the height difference exactly.

Or there's one of the many different ways to get OE Nissan stuff from overseas. Amayama for example.

Per all the above. The boost source for boost control is off the turbo outlet. The place where boost control happens is at the actuator. Hence the simplest way to make that happen is to connect one to the other. The boost signal then pushes the actuator to open the wastegate. But it offers no adjustability. So the way to obtain that is to take the signal from the source, bleed some of it off and pass the reduced signal to the actuator. Presto, now the actuator sees a lower boost than the engine sees and you can happily run higher boost than the actuator is sprung for. But, and this is a very important but, you cannot decrease boost below what the wastegate actuator is sprung for. If you have a 14 psi spring in there now, then 14 is the minimum. Hence all my cautions about not tuning etc etc in earlier posts. And to go back to the topic of the inlet elbow, you should never use soft silicone bends there. Call Scotty, buy whatever he makes. It doesn't matter what it costs, it is the only reasonable way for you to achieve your goal (of getting it all fitted together and running).

Um.....pretty much any non-stock turbo replacement ends up with a fabricated steel turbo inlet pipe. You shouldn't even use the stock rubber inlet elbow on stock turbos because they suck closed under high load! You're going to need something made. If you were in Melbourne it would be trivial. Just point you at Scotty. Could still do that. Just get him to send you one. As to the wastegate. No, the length of the rod just adjusts the pre-load, which doesn't affect max boost so much as prevents creep. You can only adjust boost on an internal gat's actuator if that actuator has an obvious adjustment on it (a screw on the end of the can, like you'd expect to see on an external gate's actuator). If you want to adjust boost you have to use a bleeder or an electronic boost controller (which is just a glorified bleeder, really). You can't turn the boost down. You can only turn it up (from whatever the actuator's spring will give you).

Mine arrived while I was on a recent OS trip. Have ripped them apart with glee today! Question is....there's a pair of washers in a small bag. Should it be obvious to me where they go?

Spindle bearing.

Nope. Fatal mistake. Bigger turbo @ same boost WILL be flowing more air. The turbo has a bigger compressor AND a bigger exhaust side. The bigger exhaust housing seriously reduces backpressure on the engine, which increases flow at the same boost. In the best case, you simply stay on the Nissan map, go up into the top right hand corner and have massive R&R. In the worst case, your fuel pump is not up the demands, you might have one or more dirty injectors, your CAS might have jitter out the waazoo, and you won't know because you didn't put it on the dyno to reassure yourself that it's not about to carve up the ring lands, plate them onto the combustion chamber and send the residue out into the exhaust.

Well, if you ignore the different seats, doors trims, under-dash panel and instruments.....then yes they are identical. There's also a rare variant of centre console where the storage bin/armrest is taller on some GTSt that were optioned with it, that never turned up in GTRs.

Mostly good. Couple of things to keep in mind. R33 subframe will mean you need a later model (R33/4 /S14) rear cover for the diff to mount to it. R33 rear upper arms are different to R32. If you get adjustable rear uppers you really should also get the rear tension rods too. So you can control the toe change on suspension movement. If you get Whiteline adjustable ARBs get the heavy duty end links too. I won't comment on changing lower front arms to R33. If you haven't already got them, get some front caster arms with ball ends. Much better than any other choice on the front and you will be able to take advantage of the Nismo upper arm mount mod and GKTech upper arms to wind on as much caster as you can before wearing holes in the inner guard liners. Oddly enough, I have just bought these arms, and some spare mounts to weld up and drill. They're sitting on the desk at home while I languish on a cement plant on the other side of the planet! I look forward to fitting them when I get home......sometime before Xmas.

Yuh, the Neo manifolds aren't offset at the rear runners.

They be brake lines and don't get any hotter than the engine can make them.

The markings on the crownwheel make no difference because they are Nissan parts regardless of the origin of the diff centre. The fully machined surface on the pumpkin does indeed make it look like Nismo. Beyond that, it's going to be too hard to be 100% sure. There may just be another brand that is machined like that, not that I know of any.

Oh, yeah, there's every chance that some severe damage could have been done. If a car gets beaten around so bad that the front lower arms get bent, then you could easily have the front subframe bent or even moved on the mounting bolts from the rails. This is bad because it's hard to see and fix and makes it almost impossible to get a good alignment and have the car drive properly. The rear subframe can also take a beating the same way.

It is very likely that all of those components did suffer damage if the thief drove over gutters and shit. I concur with the above advice. If you could ship it to Adelaide, for example, I could point you at a suspension shop that I'd trust to get it straight. The owner would hate you and me both, because he hates Skylines.....but he'd survive, and so would you car. Probably.

1" rattle gun. Donka donka donka donka donka donka

Do it yourself. Die grinder. Shove a rag into the volute. Tape over the turbine outlet. Oil resistant hose is available literally everywhere. Pirtek will do. But just about any mechanic's workshop will have rolls of it and will sell you a little bit. As will truck parts outlets, any hydraulics outlet (like B.L. Shipways, etc).

Just a point of order......compare the sizes of the turbines between the eBay cheapy and the highflow. The relaive size gives you some idea about how much power each will support and therefore how much gas they need to also bypass through the wastegate. The cheapy won't need the wastegate hole ported out anywhere near as big as that massive hole on the highflow. But it definitely will need it ported. You'll need to open it up by at least 2mm of diameter. You still need to have enough overlap of the flapper onto the seat for it to provide a gas seal though, so don't go too crazy.

You probably _can_ leave the housing bolt out, but.......I don't think I would be happy. There's plenty of other bolts holding the comp cover on, so it's unlikely that it will flex or leak or whatever. If it were me, and desperation was there, I would grind the height of the bolt head down so there's just enough to grab with a tool and at least apply some clamping force to the joint. Probably with some suitable locktight. Otherwise it comes down to altering the fitting that you're bolting to the core to gain the required clearance. And yes.....copper washers are not really optional.

Almost never. They are really good bearings (both by design and quality) from the factory. Especially at the rear, they can be completely shagged and you'd hardly notice. To the extent that I spend a bit of time lately wondering if mine are stuffed and whether I should replace them!

He's just advising that his target for the engine is 400kW and that is supposed to provide background on how important the idea of using the torque plate when doing the rings is.

remove globes

scan tool

Yuh, I'd suspect yahoo ignorance* as the primary cause of death. *others may call it enthusiasm.

I think it would be fairly logical, unless you are Nissan/Hitachi, to make your turbine's speed limit higher than your compressor's speed limit. This is particularly true if you can match your compressor's speed limit to its efficiency and capacity limits. Then you only need to say that the speed limit on X turbo is Y rpm, because after that it's compressor is not going to work nicely and you stand a chance of breaking the comp wheel. Meanwhile, the turbine has some higher limit that you should not approach because you can't get there anyway. And all the emphasis on speed limits and speed sensors and stuff is completely sensible, because it stops people from simply overdriving their compressors. I also suspect that the operating conditions on the turbine are a hell of a lot more variable than the compressor. So whilst it might be possible to put a reasonably solid speed limit on the comp wheel based purely on mechanical strength and tip speed, the turbine will be running at different temperatures depending on the engine/fuel/tune etc etc. If your published speed limits were to be imposed by your turbine, then you would have to use an arbitrarily low limit to handle the worst case of those conditions. But if the turbine's limit is handily above that of the compressor, even at the worst case conditions, then you're all good. Note that I am perfectly aware that people have managed to destroy EFR turbines. I haven't paid enough attention to know whether they usually just kill the turbine or if they kill the comp wheel more or as well as the turbine. There's probably also deaths attributable to bad tuning and high exhaust gas temps and all that other jazz. I don't think any of those deaths would necessarily invalidate what I said above though.

You can do it that way. But given how often your machinist probably needs his RB torque plate, you could probably just borrow it for a week.