GTSBoy

Nope. Google will be your friend. I've never cared where it is in cars other than mine and thankfully, mine never had one!

Or there's dirty lumps of sludge in there that you moved when you pressurised it with the Accusump and they have found their way back to cause you a problem. Could be the inlet of the oil pump, or more a major gallery in the outlet area. Probably worth doing a drop and refill with diesel, pressurise with diesel with the Accusump type of exercise to see if you can clean it out. It could be something as silly as a lump of silicone/sealant hanging out of a flanged joint into the flow. Like where the pickup bolts on. Given that you seem to have silly high oil pressure at idle, you may have some sort of aftermarket pump/gears in there, which implies the opportunity for someone to have made a mess with sealant.

Ah. It's an R34. OK, so you have a traction control CU somewhere in the car that is not happy that you have removed the TCS throttle and TCS throttle position sensor. I was thinking that the codes were coming from the ECU, but if you have a PFC then that will give no f**k. But the TCS CU will. You can't have TCS if you remove the throttle for it, so you might as well find the TCS CU and pull it out. I suggested Nistune because when you transplant a Neo into an older car with the TCS CU and so on in the car, the ECU chucks a wobbly and puts the code up. Nistune allows you to mask those codes. But in your case, it's the other way around.

The codes will come back. You need Nistune. There are flags to set to ignore them.

Or go to diff/trans repair place and buy from them.

If still using factory ECU, then the auto ECU will happily run the manual car. You can tell if it's an auto ECU from the part number, or from opening it up and finding the TCU module on the main board. ECU is unlikely to have been changed in a manual conversion. The other is the diff ratio. Manuals are 4.11. Autos are 4.083. Unlikely to have been changed in a manual conversion. On the topic of coolers......the R34 PS cooler is a small core, about 150x200mm or perhaps a bit smaller. The transmission cooler (if it has a separate core) is larger. Neither of these have anything to do with the radiator. The PS cooler only has hoses with PS fluid in them. The auto cooler on has hoses with tranny fluid in it. If you have a core that has hoses that pass through the bottom tank of the radiator.....I'm not completely sure what to make of that. Would have been easier to just remove the extra core and the hoses. If you cannot find a core for the PS cooler, then you really should have one. Consider re-instating it.

If the AEM infinity is a proper ECU, of any quality at all, it will be at least as good as the PFC.

I can't tell you off the top of my head....but it the same as the GTR box, so you can more than likely google that up for yourself. It's also the same as the RB25 turbo box, PLUS the transfer case. So the unmetric answer is f**king heavy.

I think, as has been said in other recent threads, that the coils are rotated so that the plugs face different directions between the 33s and Neos, so the looms are not the same (even if the wiring and the connectors would work).

Haha. I just noticed I wrote "carbon pro" instead of coppermix. Must have diffs on the brain instead of clutches at the moment.

Axle tramp occurs when the combination of spring + damper + tyre sidewall stiffness + tyre grip + bush deflection + chassis twist all add up to cause the rear suspension to compress as the tyre grips under power and then as the tyre reaches the point of breaking traction the sudden reduction in compressive force in the suspension causes it to pogo upwards. As it comes back down it loads the tyre over and above the load it gets just from weight + torque reaction, increasing grip. So it hooks up, loading the suspension more until it pogos again. Rinse and repeat. The R32 rear end is particularly prone to it due to the geometry. The 33s and 34s less so, but they're not immune. 2 cars that seem to be set up identical will have one do it while the other one doesn't. It ultimately comes down to springs and dampers, getting them right. If really stiff then it never grips properly and just breaks traction. If really soft, it compresses heaps and doesn't rebound (drag style). Somewhere in the middle is better performance overall, but also somewhere in the middle is axle tramp territory. And then all those other factors I listed at the top stick their beaks in too. Fixing it is hard. My car axle tramps like a bitch and I've never been able to fix it, through 3 different sets of dampers and springs. Different tyres have affected it more than anything else.

No, we know what Stage 2 means. It means nothing. Because how many stages are there? 3? 10? Just man up and drive a manual car in traffic. I drive 25 km to work each morning. It took an hour and 10 minutes the other day. Think about that for a second. How many times do you think I had to push the clutch in and out to achieve an average speed of <22 km/h? Hint, it's a f**king lot.

The shaking is almost certainly axle tramp. You need to sort your rear suspension.

The Nismo twins are as driveable as any other clutch.

The standard response to the perennial clutch question on here, at your power level, is the Nismo carbon pro twin thingo.

Same same.

That's proper wierd. My Neo is in an R32 so the worst I have to put up with is retaining the HICAS computer to make the power steering work!

Sorry, but that makes no sense. There is more than one way I can read your question and none of them make sense. 1. Are you talking about the small hose on the barb on the intercooler return pipe just before the blue silicon joiner? If so, that is not stock, it has been put there by somebody else, so it could be for anything. It could be connected to that boost controller we see behind the PS reservoir. It could be for a boost gauge. 2. Are you talking about the boost controller in the background? If you are, one side (the input side) must come from the turbo outlet or intercooler hot pipe. The other side goes to the wastegate actuator.

Yes, but not in the way that you're thinking. That pipe is visible there, and on the other side of the timing cover. On the inlet side, it is connected to the plenum. On the other side it is connected to the suction port of the charcoal canister. It provides the suck that purges the canister (and fuel tank) into the engine. The solenoid valve you posted earlier is also connected to both the plenum and the charcoal canister. It is the switch that makes the valve on the charcoal canister open. There's no flow in that line, just a vacuum signal. All the plenum vacuum you could ever want is available off the many vac ports they added down the back end of yoru new one. Did you decide to put this plenum on without making notes on how the original setup was plumbed up?

It goes behind the timing cover to the other side of the engine.

I'll ask you a question in return. Is that connected to the inlet manifold? <hint. I know the answer>

And this is a solenoid that is used to trigger (I think) the vacuum to the charcoal canister when the (factory) ECU determines that it is OK to do it. So, no, both do not go to the manifold. On the stocker, one would go to a vacuum source and the other snakes off towards the front of the car.

So it would ideally need to connect to the same general area as the front bleeder does, which is no doubt a mixture of the thermostat housing and possibly the water gallery on the manifold. I haven't got access to my car to have a look right now. Why don't you google up some pictures of R34 engine bays and have a look see at that area?

Just to expand Adrian's post..... The little one furthest to the right in your photo goes to the fitting on the top of the cast, ribbed, water gallery that runs along the length of the stock inlet manifold just above the runners adjacent the head. The fitting that it connects to points straight up, and the hose that joins them is only a few inches long because it's not far away. The next little one closer, the one in middle, connects to the small fitting on the rearmost of the two heater hoses, down pretty much immediately below the stock location of the IAC valve. That hose is a little longer. The third little one, closest to the main body of the IAC valve, connects to the rear port on the water path through the throttle body. If you were not to have that, then on the other side of the throttle body that line continues on to the front bleeder, which has a few small coolant hoses connected to it. You really can't neglect any of these connections. I don't know if those useless Freddy manifolds have an equivalent of the stock manifold's water gallery. If it doesn't, then I don't know what to tell you.

Water and air.