GTSBoy

Tein or similar castor rods with pillow ball front joints. Far and away the best thing you can do to the front end. Poly upper arm bushes are a good thing at the front. Get them with adjustability to be able to tweak the camber. At the rear it is a tougher thing. There is no point in only doing a little bit. Once you consider changing one arm, it becomes an all or nothing sort of thing. But minimally, bin the HICAS and put in a proper eliminator kit. With a good alignment. After that, you're looking at the next "minimal" thing being to put adjustable poly bushes in all the upper arms. After that....it's fully adjustable arms up top, with rubber outer bushes or even pillowballs if you give no fark for police attention and NVH. But that it overkill for a streeter.

The R35 type sensors are, by design, more one-directional than the old type ones. They have a built in shield for reversion.

It would be bestest to find out what the ex manifold pressure actually is. Given that you have blocked off EWG positions, it should be near trivial to make something up that gives you a pressure tap there, hook to a boost gauge and load it up. That one piece of information will tell you reams about whether the problem is upstream the turbine or somewhere else.

A flow straightener between the turbo and AFM won't stop air from actually flowing backwards, it will just make sure it flows backwards straight. Which is not likely to help. The rule is this.....if you change pretty much anything about how the AFMs are installed, then they will "change" their calibration. By that I mean that the signal they give for a certain mass flow of air will change a bit because the velocity profile through the tube will differ. If the profile differs, then you might have more or less total air flow through the tube for the same measured velocity at the centreline location of the sensor bead. The factory ECU was tuned to work with the response of those AFMs as installed in the same plastic pipework, hooked up to the same airbox inlet, etc etc, blah blah. Putting a pod filter on will change that. Changing the pipe between the AFM and the turbo will change that. The changes might be slight or they could be large enough to require cleaning the tune up. So, drastically changing the pipework (like Marcus has done) would likely cause changes requiring retuning. Fine. That's within expectation. Relocating the sensor from its original plastic body to an identical ID alloy pipe, in theory, wouldn't change the velocity response, but every other aspect of the idea will cause changes that will alter its overall response, likely requiring retuning. The main thing that strikes me here though, is the photo where the sensor is still attached to a piece of the original outer plastic housing. If the intention is to lay that plastic bit over the outside of the alloy pipe, then the sensor bead won't be in the original centreline position, so I would expect the "new" meter to work a little differently to the original anyway. tldr; Expect to need to retune.

f**k. My VLSD was a piece of shit with only 175rwkW. What does that tell you?

That's a tough one. It's not really possible to 2nd guess what their intentions are with that one part of the overall recommendation. Having said that, I would agree with you that 8kg at the rear sounds more circuit spec than drag spec. I would also wonder whether it is a good idea to use the standard valving on (assuming) B6s because they're probably not going to be happiest at those sorts of spring rates. I might be wrong about that, but it does make for an interesting question to put to Heasmans. Obviously you know you're looking to get some weight transfer on launch, hence the query regarding the 4-8kg range. I have something like 5kg springs on the rear of my R32 with B6s and it's pretty immune to squatting on launch. I realise that part of that is the R32 geometry, which is different to the R33, but nevertheless, it's pretty firm on launch. Will break traction easily enough.

In that case, don't stuff about. Nismo twin plate, same as every other clutch thread on here.

It may matter whether it's auto or manual. On R32, the auto rear bar is thinner than the manual one.

What does that mean? HP? kW? At the engine? At the wheels?

I'm guessing just age/wear.

How much power does it need to cope with?

Sold. I'll PM ya.

Yup. Use google to search this site for the comprehensive postings on the subject.

I'm guessing Street to Track

Trying to buy this stuff in the US might drive you nuts. There is some chance that the rears are the same as S13 stuff, but I admit my care factor for pissy 4-bolt stuff and sliding calipers is so low that I have never known, nor will I. Your best bet is probably to look outside the US. Look to Nengun, Amayama, etc.

I just checked the official pdf from SA Transport for the eyebrow heights. R32&3 turbos are F345, R355. All R34s are F340, R345. R32&3GTR are F375, R355. These are all with the vehicle in operating condition, but unladen. So, no load in the boot, no passengers. 360 will be fine. But keep in mind that 360 F&R might look a little wrong. The 100mm clearance under the car and the 2/3s original suspension travel requirements are also in play but you should not have a problem at the acceptable eyebrow heights unless your exhaust hangs low or you have an extra CF lip on the front.

I wouldn't say that you wouldn't need adjustable somethings. That depends on the physical state of your existing bushes, how bent parts of the car are, etc etc. Also, at or near that minimum height, you will possibly end up with more -ve camber than you'd like, particularly at the rear. So some Whiteline kits installed in the rear uppers might make a lot of sense. There pretty much is no camber adjustment in the stock suspension. I personally would not try to avoid putting in at least adjustable poly bushes in the front uppers and rear uppers, adjustable front caster rods with rod end (rose) joints, and possibly one or two other things. Having the ability to wind in a little more camber at the front or a little less, plus change the caster can make a massive difference to how the car drives, tyres last, etc etc.

The usually accepted number is the same, both for legality reasons and also how well the suspension works. This is an "eyebrow height" of around 340-345mm. The eyebrow height is defined as the vertical distance from the centre of the wheel hub (actually the centre of the wheel's own centre cap will do) to the height of the standard wheel arch/guard lip. Actually measuring it on the slight outward angle that is likely to result from the wheel sitting slightly inside the line of the guard is not really a problem. No worse than the measurement error of eyeballing a tape measure anyway.

The front and rear tie rod ends are not the same. There are NO rear tie rod ends for non-HICAS cars. There are no tie rods. When the subframe is non-HICAS, the tie rods are replaced with "toe control arms" and the connection to the "steering arm" on the knuckle is not a taper ball joint. It is a simple bush. So it looks just like any other suspension arm. So, if you have a lock bar, you still have tie rods. If you need to replace the tie rod ends then you need to get HICAS (rear) tie rod ends, as there are no other types. The smart thing to do is to buy a HICAS eliminator kit and freshen all that crap in the best way, selling the lock bar to some P-plater in the process.

How much money do you want to spend? Hypergear stuff can give you same same for less $$. Borg Warner can give you more power or better response for somewhat more $$.

The ball joint comes out of its taper like any other ball joint's taper. Use a splitter, pickle fork, two f**k off big hammers, etc etc. The taper is pressed into the end of the arm and if you want that out so that you can convert to non-HICAS, then yes, press it out. Off the car.

There's no point in searching. Someone else will do it for you.

Um, trace the loom to the other end of the wrapping?

Black paint? Better knob?

The big Walbros mostly. Various others from various other suppliers like Deatschworks, Fuelab ($$!!) also.