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GTSBoy

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Everything posted by GTSBoy

  1. GTSBoy
    One thing to keep in mind with the PS pumps is that R32s have a 2 circuit pump. Front steer and rear steer are run on those two separate circuits. If you get rid of the R32 pump and you still have HICAS working, it will stop working and need to be killed properly.
  2. GTSBoy
    Hell no. You need to restrict different amounts depending on how big your oil pump is. There can be no blanket rule on whether to fit them or not based on what type of lifters are in there.
  3. GTSBoy
    I think that one is just to heat the inlet manifold. Does nothing else. Block or bypass depending on access.
  4. GTSBoy
    Well, yes they do. But the question you ask about Tomei something something.....we don't know what the something something is.
  5. GTSBoy
    It's going to be heat sensitive electronics. Coil packs, ignitor, CAS, AFM are the leading items in the engine bay that will do it. The other thing is simply the loom plugs for all these things. They can get old and brittle, with oxidation on the contacts. Get them warm and things move or the resistance changes and they stop working. The other leading possibility is the fuel pump. Could be running OK to start with but dying off as it warms up. Any decent mechanic should be able to help fault find this stuff. You may need some parts for swaptronics though.
  6. GTSBoy
    It's hardly worth paying for a low mount manifold to mount a highflow turbo on. The OEM manifold is perfectly good for the sort of power levels that you can hope to obtain from such a turbo. If you were to spend $$ on one of these, then it would return a small benefit in outright power, might cost some spool revs. Money better put towards a high mount manifold and external gate and more turbo. Or if not wanting to spend that much, towards E85 compatible stuff to make better use of what you have. Etc. Not that there's anything wrong with that manifold.....just that it's not really a worthwhile thing to lust after.
  7. GTSBoy
    My thoughts are that it shouldn't matter if you don't have the stuff hooked up that would cause idle load to change. Just get the ECU to learn through it doing nothing, and it comes out the other side not GAF about those things. I concur on the O2 sensor & feedback being vital. Once you get past cold start you need it working, or you need it tuned to ignore it properly.
  8. GTSBoy
    I think the igniter is the same. But regardless of whether it is or isn't and regardless of whether the coils connectors are the same....there's nothing that wouldn't succumb to some repinning if required.
  9. GTSBoy
    If I was o be modifying the combustion chamber of a 26 head it would be to put MORE squish in.
  10. GTSBoy
    There's no point in contemplating putting the Neo ECU's image into an RB20 ECU. For one thing, it's just not possible. For the another, it's the image/program that is the problem when it comes to expecting communications to/from other CUs in the car (ABS/TCS/ATTESA). So it's not the type of ECU that matters. If you really wanted to you could run the Neo engine on an RB20 ECU with the RB20 image in there. All you have to do is sort out the sensor wiring differences and tune it. But that doesn't gain you anything at all. You'd only do that if you were running some engine for which you cannot do Nistune into its ECU (like R33 and earlier Stagea engines). So that also puts paid to your idea of using an earlier Stagea engine. It wont make it easier, it will actually make it harder, because then you definitely have to use a non-native ECU to run the engine (if you want to tune it). The Neo ECU is significantly more advanced than the older ECUs and therefore would be the better choice for running the engine. If you Nistune it, then you obtain the ability to bypass all the DTCs that come up from not having proper communications between the other CUs. And that's all you need to run the engine properly. The ATTESA computer and the ABS computer in your car should still run just fine with a different ECU in there. Look what happens to all the thousands of guys who put aftermarket ECUs into these cars. The 4WD and brakes don't just suddenly stop working. A Nistuned R34/Stagea ECU won't be any different.
  11. GTSBoy
    What the hell is bread crump? Do you mean crumbs? We just use bearing grease.
  12. GTSBoy
    DTCs are fault codes. Diagnostic Terminal Codes, or somesuch. The Neo era cars ABS computer talks to the ECU more than the R32 era cars' computers talk to each other, so I'd guess you'd be the same as not having ABS. Actually making sure that your original ABS keeps working could be a challenge too.
  13. GTSBoy
    That would be a throwaway, even if it was forged, on any engine that you wanted to make power out of.
  14. GTSBoy
    There's no det damage on that piston. That's a mechanical impact.
  15. GTSBoy
    You will need to Nistune it from the outset. There are DTC faults that you can't deal with unless you have NIstune. Missing ABS & TCS are the big ones. Being able to override the boost sensor errors etc etc, also vital.
  16. GTSBoy
    Um.....Neo ECUs are fully Nistunable. I have a Neo in my R32 GTSt, using Nistuned Neo ECU. It's fine. Auto, manual, all good.
  17. GTSBoy
    And perhaps you'd better decide whether you want a Quaife or a Nismo. They are 2 totally different operating characteristics. Better research the difference between a helical/torsen LSD and a conventional mechanical LSD if you're not aware of them.
  18. GTSBoy
    Serious? 2 seconds to type it in. First hit! https://www.google.com.au/?gws_rd=ssl#q=site:sau.com.au+plenum+install+howto
  19. GTSBoy
    No. Search on here using Google. If you put site: sau.com.au in with your search terms it only searches here.
  20. GTSBoy
    I can assure you that definitive caliper bolt sizing for your car has been posted on this very forum. I just can't be arsed finding it for you.
  21. GTSBoy
    What do you mean "the surrounding rim"? Do you mean the stone shield behind the rotor? If so, yes. Any larger disc always requires cutting, straightening or removing the shields.
  22. GTSBoy
    Marcus, you really need to be more clear when you say "timing". It's been really hard to tell, for each use of the word, whether you mean cam timing or ignition timing. To answer your last question first....adjust cams to reduce overlap in order to make them work better at lower rpm and not as good as they could at higher rpm. To answer what I think you were asking in the previous post.....actually I can't answer it. Because I still don't follow which type of timing you were talking about at each usage of the word. But in general, I have posted earlier in this thread on the subject, and between that post and my most recent one, it covers most of it. What it doesn't cover is different philosophies that different tuners might have towards the ignition timing options when trying to build boost. Some want to keep as much (ignition) timing in the engine as they can. Others are happy to run a fair bit less in order to get the exhaust temperatures up to make the turbine spin. What works in one case may not work in another. So YMMV as always.
  23. GTSBoy
    GTT brakes have 14mm bolts. Do the 34NA brakes also use 14? Or are they 12 like the earlier cars? If 12 then I can't see any reason why you couldn't use any brake part intended for R32/3 or S13/4/5. They're all basically the same dog at the hub level, number of wheel studs and different original rotor thicknesses notwithstanding.
  24. GTSBoy
    Well, one way to look at ignition timing is that the less efficient the engine is (either overall, or at a particular point in the operating range) then the more timing it can take... or more to the point, the more timing it will want. So, partial throttle.....that's an efficiency killer, compared to running WOT. So it will swallow more timing. Or, if the cams are not in their sweet spot (rpm wise) then the engine will not be trapping as much cylinder fill as it will at the right rev range. That's an efficiency killer, and you can run more timing. So when you go to larger cams, the logic of what you can do with timing follows the above. Where the cams are costing you cylinder fill, you can probably add in some timing. That would be at the bottom of the rev range. Where the cams are working to trap more cylinder fill, you'd probably have to back off timing. Of course both those statements are to be taken as "relative to the same engine with the original/smaller cams". There may be some traps though. Longer duration cams can cause increased exhaust reversion at some points, particularly where they are not working well. The increased amount of hot exhaust gas in the charge in the cylinder can lead to detonation, so you wouldn't be adding timing if that was happening.
  25. GTSBoy
    NA or turbo car? For NA cars it is almost always the case the shorter gearing will improve acceleration. The only times that it doesn't are where you would need to fit in one more gear change to reach a certain speed and that may or may not make the time taken to get there longer. That is sometimes also true for turbos. Sometimes not. In general, turbos like load. Longer gears can get the load up on the engine earlier, making more gas flow, making the turbo work earlier, making more speed.
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