GTSBoy

Magnaflow have 4" universal race mufflers. Superformance.com.au are responsible for them in Oz I think.

fisted pussy <> punched cat Although....the resulting damage is probably similar

Re-routing fuel lines would be an easy enough thing, if you had to do it. The hassle is that the mounts on the Neo rail don't match the 33 plenum, so you have to cut and shut stuff.

For the effort involved in modding the Neo rail to fit, you'd probably be much better off just getting an aftermarket rail for the r33 manifold to suit EV14s. PM Scotty on here.

A length of soft rope, not a rag.

Lost post in this thread was to the effect that all RB26 AFMs are 65mm and all other RB2x AFMs are 80mm, same as Z32.

Looks like the downtime involved a database crash and restore. Some posts lost. The ones I made in this thread were to the effect that 2 psi of backpressure post turbo seemed like a lot for only 320 rwhp.

Z32 AFMs are physically larger than RB26 AFMs. There are a zillion mentions of how to fit Z32s to a GTR on the net.

They're physically the same size as a Z32 AFM.

5" body for the turbine exit, plus a 3" in the wastegate pipe. Plumb them back together just before the mid muffler.

And the loud slow tick on startup will be in the valve train.

Or.....you could just buy some 3x2 shafts for your R32. That's what I did to put an S15 helical into my car.

That's not what he's asking. The wastegate is a valve. When it is closed it SHOULD block off the communication between the two halves of the manifold, and if it doesn't, that's bad. When it is open, it will impose a pressure drop on the flow passing through it. It will be like the end of any pipe, any orifice, etc etc. The pressure pulses that come down the pipe from one half of the manifold will leak into the other half of the manifold because of that. The question is.....how much does it negatively effect it? I think it somewhat defeats the purpose of the whole split pulse idea. But I am willing ti accept that split pulse with turbos is more about getting the thing to spool better. Once the gate is open, the pulses can probably leak between halves of the system without too much negative effect. But that's just a gut feeling.

Provided that divider in the wastegate elbow goes all the way to the divided part of the collector, then yes. It looks like it does.

Searched?

What they said.

If the RE71R is a rave-worthy tyre, then the RE003 is a long way from that. I put them on my car. Previously having used AD08Rs and before that various KU36s etc. The RE003 has nowhere near as much dry grip as the AD08R, so should be at least as far behind the RE71R. The RE003 is pretty good in the wet, no argument. The life expectancy looks to be pretty reasonable. I'm going to get a lot more life out of them than the AD08Rs, which is the main reason I decided to try them. FWIW, I'd probably use the RE003 again, even with lower grip levels. They're still a pretty good tyre.

I said the same....until the 2nd half of their life. I found them much less amazing after they'd half worn. And it's not like they got old on my car. I usually get <18 months or 15k kms from a set.

600 series Inconels are not magnetic. Austenitic stainlesses are also not. There may be some stainlesses (ferritic ones) used for turbines that could be magnetic, but in general I wouldn't be making any decision on whether it's metallic or ceramic based on a magnet test. Sadly.

Has hub?

DO NOT remove that kit before you try getting a roadworthy. If you do have to put HICAS stuff back on you'd be better off wrecking the car for parts than trying to put it back to stock. To put it back to stock, all you'll need is the HICAS rack and tie rods. But it will suck more than the Mardis Gras.

Nistune is a daughterboard that goes INSIDE the ECU, replacing the original EEPROM, making your ECU completely programmable and possible for you to beat all these DTC codes without having to resort to brutish hardwiring fixes.

1mm clearance is on the small side. Expect something to rub somewhere. Everything bends!

Nistune every time.

That depends on what you mean by "roadworthy". Assuming that you're talking about an annual/whatever mandated roadworthy by a day-to-day mechanic, there is every chance that he would not be bothered by the replacement of the HICAS components with stuff that deletes it totally. You could go one step towards making it look like it is supposed to be there by rubbing an appropriate amount of grease and dirt onto all those bits to make them look like they are many years old. If you're talking about taking it over the pits, like we have to here in SA at (very odd) intervals, then you may find the situation not quite as easy. This is because the tech inspectors at the dept of transport usually are switched on and know what stuff is supposed to be on what cars. They know that Skylines have HICAS because they've had 40000* defected Skylines go over the pits since they started coming into the country. The reason that this is an issue is that modification to a steering system is not allowed unless it is properly engineered. So this counts out even the simple HICAS lockbars, let alone the delete kits. Having said that....I took an approach to your problem which is now proven to work, at least here in SA where the inspectors really are clever car blokes. I transplanted a complete non-HICAS subframe and the appropriate other parts into my car. Ripped out all the HICAS plumbing and other shit. Looks like it was never there. There are actually Skylines without HICAS, so unless you went looking very very closely, you wouldn't tell that my car had it to start with. And it's all Nissan parts in the car, so it looks 100% legit. And it passed inspection. *That's actually only about 5000 cars, but 8 times each. Of course, I haven't tested the alternative approach, which is to get a car inspected with a lock bar or delete kit. It may be that they happily let them through.